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I'd need to look for links/posts here for others. On my picture linked for the HGO-1 for front transfer it lists 32 lbf-ft for both fill and drain using a new washer.

LINK to Ridgeline owners club that has a download for torque specs for Ridgeline. Basically all the same stuff as Pilot but an open seating third row :D .

Rear Differential 35 lbf-ft for both with new washers.
Transmission drain plug is either 36 lbf-ft for 6 speed or 26 lbf-ft if 9 speed all with new crush washers.

Update your profile/signature so it shows what trim level you have and location if you hover over the flag. Recommendations may vary pending trims and where you live (snow/cold, high heat etc.)
 
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Good thing you kept the 3rd quart. Book says 1.92 qts, both of mine needed a little more than 2 quarts to get to the full mark per the factory instructions.
 

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Shoot I returned the third quart :/

I can always run back over there - I work half way close and I’m not doing this all until next Saturday the earliest
I also used 3 bottles to do mine and I have an almost full one sitting on the shelf so I only need 2 next time. I also reused the seal washers as I have done with every vehicle I have owned, and had no leaks in over 40 years.
 
So I completed the rear differential, front transfer module, and did a 4x drain and fill in the 6spd using Valvoline max life - I think with just under 31,000 Miles and my plan to install the svcm next weekend I should get more longevity from my transmission
 
How is it with the VML?

My wife and son did a full drain on the fuel tank and left it for me to fill.......:ROFLMAO: :unsure: :cry:.
 
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So I completed the rear differential, front transfer module, and did a 4x drain and fill in the 6spd using Valvoline max life - I think with just under 31,000 Miles and my plan to install the svcm next weekend I should get more longevity from my transmission
I have been using Maxlife in my 6speed for almost two years now and it seems to be holding up better than DW1. You will notice that the shifting is slightly firmer with Maxlife especially the downshifts but they will be a lot smoother after you install the SVCM. After 2 years with Maxlife, I don't even notice the difference now and appreciate how much better a full synthetic fluid stands up.
 
The only reason I'm staying with DW-1 and more changes is that I do have the Hondacare for 8-120.

It's a tough choice as I know that the synthetic would be better but if something happens I'd hate to be denied coverage. After the warranty then I probably will switch to something. Pending other maintenance concerns and coverage between now and then it might just be a trade in before warranty ends.
 
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Good thing you kept the 3rd quart. Book says 1.92 qts, both of mine needed a little more than 2 quarts to get to the full mark per the factory instructions.
I just did the rear differential because MM was on. With my driveway and ramps the rear was very slightly higher than the front. Honda did my last rear diff D&F. When I removed the fill plug, DPSF started running out, probably about 4-6 ounces from look of my drain pan. I drained the rest, replaced crush washers and refilled. I needed the 2 full qts and 2 ounces before it started dripping out. Perfectly flat the 2 qts might have done it, Honda had it overfilled for me :confused:. Below is windshield squirter jug I used for waste which is definitely more than 2 qts in there.

Hopefully I'll get to the oil and tranny tomorrow.
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If I recall, you are supposed to start the car after filling it and then rechecking it. You might have to add a little bit more. This is copied from the Pilot Service Manual and is done after your initial drain and fill

Fluid Capacity:
1.82 L (1.92 US qt) at fluid change
2.33 L (2.46 US qt) at overhaul
Recommended fluid: Honda DPSFII
6. Loosely install the filler plug with the used sealing washer.
7. Do the rear differential fluid air bleeding.
Start the engine.
Shift the transmission to P position/mode.
Wait for 1 minute.
8. Turn the engine off.
9. Remove the filler plug and the sealing washer.
10. Refill the rear differential with rear differential fluid to the
proper level.
11. Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer.
 
If I recall, you are supposed to start the car after filling it and then rechecking it. You might have to add a little bit more. This is copied from the Pilot Service Manual and is done after your initial drain and fill

Fluid Capacity:
1.82 L (1.92 US qt) at fluid change
2.33 L (2.46 US qt) at overhaul
Recommended fluid: Honda DPSFII
6. Loosely install the filler plug with the used sealing washer.
7. Do the rear differential fluid air bleeding.
Start the engine.
Shift the transmission to P position/mode.
Wait for 1 minute.
8. Turn the engine off.
9. Remove the filler plug and the sealing washer.
10. Refill the rear differential with rear differential fluid to the
proper level.
11. Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer.
I could see maybe if it was up on lift so the wheels would spin, sitting on ramps end of my driveway, not so much.

All my years of doing changes that was never an issue. DPSF is quite thin as compared to 75W90 or 75W140.

I'm at just over 2 quarts in there so not too worried about it.
 
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I believe that fluid was used in your transfer case (mounted to the transmission that delivers power to the rear diff) and not put into your rear differential. The T-case calls for regular gear lube which is what your receipt is showing.
There are multiple posts and kind of back and forth above.

The DPSF (dual pump fluid) is for rear differential somewhere about 2 qts pending angle of vehicle etc.

The HGO-1 is for the front transfer unit attached to transmission and rear driveshaft, about 1/2 qt.

The DW-1 is for transmission about 3.6-4 qts pending angle.
 
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I just had my 2018 Pilot differential and transfer case fluid replaced at the dealer last week and I noticed a groan at first when accelerating and now it feels like going over rumble strips on the highway. I called the dealer and she said bring it in immediately that the fluid they used is bad. They used BG Syncroshift fluid. I’ll drop it off tomorrow but differential is probably destroyed.
 
I just had my 2018 Pilot differential and transfer case fluid replaced at the dealer last week and I noticed a groan at first when accelerating and now it feels like going over rumble strips on the highway. I called the dealer and she said bring it in immediately that the fluid they used is bad. They used BG Syncroshift fluid. I’ll drop it off tomorrow but differential is probably destroyed.
Please keep us updated on what happens. I don't know how much shock loading is on the Pilot differential.

The BG is a Synthetic 75W-80 GL-4 gear lubricant. The Honda HGO-1 is a regular dino 75W-85 GL-5 lubricant.
  • GL-4 is suitable for hypoid gear service when they are under severe service but are without shock loading.
  • GL-5 is suitable for hypoid gear service under severe service and shock loads and not for use in a gearbox.
It wasn't in a rear differential but the BG Synchroshift ii kept me from having to rebuild the transmission in my '93 Corolla that was grinding from Synchro's dragging. It also made the cold 2nd shift problems go away in my '07 Sonata. This were both transmission issues that called for GL-4.

BG does make BG Ultra-Guard Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant which is GL-5 75W-90. Others have recommended different synthetic versions of that same weight.
 
I have some Ravenol MTF-1 that is 75W-85 synthetic and is listed as GL4/GL5. But they also make a different GL5 only 75W-85 gear oil.

Redline makes 75W-85 GL5, Toyota has their branded version 75W-85 but doesn't say if Synthetic. The Honda HGO-1 doesn't list as Synthetic either.

Here is one link on the 75W-85 vs 75W-90 that basically says the thinner gear lube is for MPG regulations (just like thinner motor oils) but not many make that viscosity.
 
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