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Hello all,
i have a 2016 Honda Pilot touring and i just started last seeing that the car stalls at a traffic while this happens when you want to accelerate then car dies and you have to restart again mean while you see the needles in the dashboard jittering like crazy at the 0 rpm mark until the engine start running again. Also i have noticed the last few days that when i start the car at times the dashboard needles jittering like crazy on the 0 rpm mark then the engine start running. well that was concern but yesterday evening i was pulling to drive way and came to complete stop and my wife went down to remove something from the driveway and when i tried to move forward the car stalled and was not able to restart and the dashboard was lighting up with all kinds of different messages from emission issue to up hill to mitigation etc etc and i could not start the car for nothing and was not able to move it out of the street DEAD IN THE WATER. except the display was still showing the nav and it was still blowing air. so I decided to disconnect the battery and waited couple of minutes and i connected back the battery. Then after that i was able to start the car. we were lucky that we were on a private street inside a community. taking the car to the dealer in the AM. by the way we have 106000 miles on the car. we did not have problem with auto of but i could say that after a while becomes annoying. any suggestions. please post
 
My wife's Pilot has had the issue of the Pilot just completely shutting off at stop lights about 4-5 times now. The last time she was actually turning left at a light and it died in oncoming traffic. When this happens she has the Auto Stop/Start on. Each time we have to re-start the car like one normally would. One time the brake was depressed and we had to press on the brake extremely hard to get the Pilot to re-start.

The dealer has no clue what is wrong but then again my local dealer has always been less than impressive. Following this thread in the hopes we find a fix.
 
My wife's Pilot has had the issue of the Pilot just shutting off at stop lights about 4-5 times now. The last time she was actually turning left at a light and it died in oncoming traffic. The dealer has no clue what is wrong but then again my local dealer has always been less than impressive. Following this thread in the hopes we find a fix.
Is she using the start/stop function or turning it off when she first starts the vehicle? I'm asking to try and narrow down the causes. If you say she is using the feature, I'd recommend turning it off and see if the stalling occurs again.
 
Is she using the start/stop function or turning it off when she first starts the vehicle? I'm asking to try and narrow down the causes. If you say she is using the feature, I'd recommend turning it off and see if the stalling occurs again.
NAIL Grease - I should have clarified that in post. The Auto Stop/Start was on. I always turn it off but she does not. I'll edit my post to include this info.
 
Sounds to me like she was out in the intersection to make the left hand turn, had to hit/hold the brake waiting for traffic to clear and the Auto Stop/Start engaged. Tell her to turn it off.
 
NAIL Grease - I should have clarified that in post. The Auto Stop/Start was on. I always turn it off but she does not. I'll edit my post to include this info.
You could continue to try and get Honda to fix it (if in waranty). Me, I'm going to disable the feature. I believe this function is dangerous.
 
You could continue to try and get Honda to fix it (if in waranty). Me, I'm going to disable the feature. I believe this function is dangerous.
Does this mess with the warranty? I press the button when I drive, but I don't want the paint on the button to start coming off lol.
 
Well My 2016 pilot touring this has been happening lately a lot. I have 108000 miles and one of the times the car completely stoped and I could not restart it for nothing in the middle of the street where I stoped for my wife to step down. The only way to start it again is to disconnect the battery and reconnecting it. I also have the emission light comes and goes so I took it to the dealer explaining what happened so after the diagnosis they say that I have to fix the Catalytic converter which is causing the problem. They think that we are all stupid or dumb to believe them it is causing the problem. The cat coast $1600 to replace and the extended warranty does not cover it (go figure why in the world an extended warranty does not cover it) and they refused to do anything before fixing that. On top of that they charged me $150 for the diagnosis since I did not do the repair.
I am really getting pissed off and upset about this issue. Any ideas?
Several times our 2016 Elite has stalled at a stoplight. It takes time to start back up. Dealer said transmission software update may be problem.

Has anyone else heard of this. I know there’s a long thread on transmission problems but I just can’t read the whole thing to see if this is mentioned there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well My 2016 pilot touring this has been happening lately a lot. I have 108000 miles and one of the times the car completely stoped and I could not restart it for nothing in the middle of the street where I stoped for my wife to step down. The only way to start it again is to disconnect the battery and reconnecting it. I also have the emission light comes and goes so I took it to the dealer explaining what happened so after the diagnosis they say that I have to fix the Catalytic converter which is causing the problem. They think that we are all stupid or dumb to believe them it is causing the problem. The cat coast $1600 to replace and the extended warranty does not cover it (go figure why in the world an extended warranty does not cover it) and they refused to do anything before fixing that. On top of that they charged me $150 for the diagnosis since I did not do the repair.
I am really getting pissed off and upset about this issue. Any ideas?
Cough cough... @Nail Grease ....
 
Well My 2016 pilot touring this has been happening lately a lot. I have 108000 miles and one of the times the car completely stoped and I could not restart it for nothing in the middle of the street where I stoped for my wife to step down. The only way to start it again is to disconnect the battery and reconnecting it. I also have the emission light comes and goes so I took it to the dealer explaining what happened so after the diagnosis they say that I have to fix the Catalytic converter which is causing the problem. They think that we are all stupid or dumb to believe them it is causing the problem. The cat coast $1600 to replace and the extended warranty does not cover it (go figure why in the world an extended warranty does not cover it) and they refused to do anything before fixing that. On top of that they charged me $150 for the diagnosis since I did not do the repair.
I am really getting pissed off and upset about this issue. Any ideas?
There is always the chance the cat(s) is clogged beyond recovery, if you have a P0420 or P0430 code, but that does not necessarily mean a clogged cat can't be saved. The sooner you do something about it, the better. If I were out of waranty, and before I fork out that kind of money for new cats, I'm going to spend $95 to disable the VCM in hopes of the cat cleaning itself. But for this to work you must have the engine running as efficient as possible.
Clean air filter
Clean (MAF) Mass Airflow sensor
Intake tube fitted tight with no leaks/cracks
All O2 sensors functioning normally
Clean spark plugs
Clean PCV
Use a top tier fuel, 87 octane only (Exxon, Shell, Valero etc)
Then take your vehicle on some long highway speed drives to burn out the crud from your engine. If this does not work, you may need new cat(s). It worked for me.
Please know the risks of disabling the VCM. A properly maintained cooling system along with regular monitoring and inspection. This includes both cooling fans working properly.
 
Has anyone found a permanent solution that doesn't require disabling the auto stop? I want to sell the car and need to make sure it's in working condition when I do. I've had the battery replaced (didn't help). Then I got a new starter, which solved the problem for about 8 months, but now it's back. It's in the shop again today and I suspect they'll tell me they 1) can't replicate the issue and 2) can't find anything wrong. Insert eye roll...
 
Has anyone found a permanent solution that doesn't require disabling the auto stop? I want to sell the car and need to make sure it's in working condition when I do. I've had the battery replaced (didn't help). Then I got a new starter, which solved the problem for about 8 months, but now it's back. It's in the shop again today and I suspect they'll tell me they 1) can't replicate the issue and 2) can't find anything wrong. Insert eye roll...
1. Press the button
Or
2. DIsable
 
That's a great temporary fix, but it doesn't actually permanently solve the problem for when I want to sell the car.
There isn't really a permanent fix for auto stop/start. The only way to "permanently" disable it is by following the instructions on the pinned thread. You'll have to take apart the center console a little bit unfortunately.
 
No, it didn't fix it. I even put in a battery with more amps. Seem good initially, but went back to stalling intermittently.
 
My Pilot produced a code the first time it stalled after auto stop. I'll copy everything from the invoice here, but am not an expert so might be including something not relevant...
P17OB - DOG CLUTCH A ABNORMAL OPERATION
U0230 - GAUGE LOST COMM W / PTG
U1281 - GAUGE LOST COMM W / MICU
U0199 - MICU LOST COMM W / MASTER SWITCH
U0180 - CLIMATE CONTROL LOST COMM W/ MASTER SWITCH

This I assume is the mechanic's notes: INSPECTED FREEZE DATA, TRANS HAD NO INPUT SPEED, SO CODE MUST HAVE SET DURING AN IDLE STOP. FOLLOWED TROUBLESHOOTING-INTERMITTENT FAILURE, CODE IS NOT RESETTING. TEST DROVE VEHICLE, IDLE STOP IS OPERATING PROPERLY AT THIS TIME.

Question for those of you also having this problem: Have you noticed if it seems to matter how long the idle stop has been engaged? We think both times ours stalled it had barely turned off for the idle stop when we tried to get moving again.

Now for my lengthy description/rant. We're first (and probably last!) time Honda owners and have been experiencing the idle stop stall. All along I have felt that our 2017 Touring doesn't always restart from the idle stop smoothly. Often (but not always) it would hesitate when I was trying to get moving again, and then I would feel kind of a big effort as it finally kicked back on. This is the first vehicle we've had with the feature, so I figured that must be normal. At about 31,000 miles (June 2020) it died on me in a parking lot when I released the brake after the idle stop had engaged. It took a flustered moment before I ultimately was able to restart the vehicle. A week later I took it to the dealership for an oil change and to investigate this issue. Their response was that they found a code but not a problem. They said they cleared the code and to bring it back if it happened again. Two months later (Aug 2020) it happened again, only this time my husband was driving in stop and go traffic in the middle lane of I-5 through Portland with our kids in the backseat. Traffic started flowing again but here we were completely stuck as traffic began fanning out to go around us. This time it seemed to take longer to get the car restarted. After this we tried to remember to disable the feature each time we started the vehicle. On Sept 4 we brought the vehicle back to the dealership as I had been instructed. Several hours later we got a call saying the car was ready to pick up. We had to press the person for more information, only to be told that it was working perfectly and there was no problem. In other words, we were out of luck because they couldn't replicate the problem. The tech(?) sarcastically said he could keep it for days or weeks or even months and keep driving it around, but nothing would happen because it was fine. He claimed they can't even try to find a problem if they can't replicate the issue first because the warranty won't pay out. We even told him there had been a code two months before, and he said that could mean anything. FINALLY he looked up our service record (not sure why he wouldn't have done that already?) and after reading the codes/notes hist tone changed. He offered to talk to his manager the following week to see if they could contact Honda. This was right before the long weekend so we were told we'd hear back on Tuesday. Unfortunately by Tuesday morning a nearby wildfire had knocked out power so we got a quick call saying they were closing. Now it's the following Monday morning and we still hadn't heard so called them ourselves. Turns out they had reopened 4 days ago but not fully staffed due to smoke issues. The guy we talked to looked at our case and said it's ready to be picked up! But of course they hadn't even looked at it again yet. Help from the dealership is definitely not looking promising. We just submitted a NHTSA complaint. I hope everyone with this issue does. This "can't replicate so your vehicle is in perfect condition" response is ridiculous, especially involving a safety issue. This is our family car that I typically drive alone with the kids. I can't put us in danger of being rear-ended because at any moment the car might not restart when the situation would make any cars behind me assume I should be moving (plus I would think my brake lights would go off since I have released the brakes expecting to start moving). We will have to just remember to disable that feature, but how do you explain that if we want to sell the car eventually? And why should we have to accept our vehicle not having the all the features we were sold? It is still on original warranty, but we did buy the extended warranty with the expectation that any issues that arise would be covered. If this is how Honda treats customers we definitely won't be one again.
 
My Pilot produced a code the first time it stalled after auto stop. I'll copy everything from the invoice here, but am not an expert so might be including something not relevant...
P17OB - DOG CLUTCH A ABNORMAL OPERATION
U0230 - GAUGE LOST COMM W / PTG
U1281 - GAUGE LOST COMM W / MICU
U0199 - MICU LOST COMM W / MASTER SWITCH
U0180 - CLIMATE CONTROL LOST COMM W/ MASTER SWITCH

This I assume is the mechanic's notes: INSPECTED FREEZE DATA, TRANS HAD NO INPUT SPEED, SO CODE MUST HAVE SET DURING AN IDLE STOP. FOLLOWED TROUBLESHOOTING-INTERMITTENT FAILURE, CODE IS NOT RESETTING. TEST DROVE VEHICLE, IDLE STOP IS OPERATING PROPERLY AT THIS TIME.

Question for those of you also having this problem: Have you noticed if it seems to matter how long the idle stop has been engaged? We think both times ours stalled it had barely turned off for the idle stop when we tried to get moving again.

Now for my lengthy description/rant. We're first (and probably last!) time Honda owners and have been experiencing the idle stop stall. All along I have felt that our 2017 Touring doesn't always restart from the idle stop smoothly. Often (but not always) it would hesitate when I was trying to get moving again, and then I would feel kind of a big effort as it finally kicked back on. This is the first vehicle we've had with the feature, so I figured that must be normal. At about 31,000 miles (June 2020) it died on me in a parking lot when I released the brake after the idle stop had engaged. It took a flustered moment before I ultimately was able to restart the vehicle. A week later I took it to the dealership for an oil change and to investigate this issue. Their response was that they found a code but not a problem. They said they cleared the code and to bring it back if it happened again. Two months later (Aug 2020) it happened again, only this time my husband was driving in stop and go traffic in the middle lane of I-5 through Portland with our kids in the backseat. Traffic started flowing again but here we were completely stuck as traffic began fanning out to go around us. This time it seemed to take longer to get the car restarted. After this we tried to remember to disable the feature each time we started the vehicle. On Sept 4 we brought the vehicle back to the dealership as I had been instructed. Several hours later we got a call saying the car was ready to pick up. We had to press the person for more information, only to be told that it was working perfectly and there was no problem. In other words, we were out of luck because they couldn't replicate the problem. The tech(?) sarcastically said he could keep it for days or weeks or even months and keep driving it around, but nothing would happen because it was fine. He claimed they can't even try to find a problem if they can't replicate the issue first because the warranty won't pay out. We even told him there had been a code two months before, and he said that could mean anything. FINALLY he looked up our service record (not sure why he wouldn't have done that already?) and after reading the codes/notes hist tone changed. He offered to talk to his manager the following week to see if they could contact Honda. This was right before the long weekend so we were told we'd hear back on Tuesday. Unfortunately by Tuesday morning a nearby wildfire had knocked out power so we got a quick call saying they were closing. Now it's the following Monday morning and we still hadn't heard so called them ourselves. Turns out they had reopened 4 days ago but not fully staffed due to smoke issues. The guy we talked to looked at our case and said it's ready to be picked up! But of course they hadn't even looked at it again yet. Help from the dealership is definitely not looking promising. We just submitted a NHTSA complaint. I hope everyone with this issue does. This "can't replicate so your vehicle is in perfect condition" response is ridiculous, especially involving a safety issue. This is our family car that I typically drive alone with the kids. I can't put us in danger of being rear-ended because at any moment the car might not restart when the situation would make any cars behind me assume I should be moving (plus I would think my brake lights would go off since I have released the brakes expecting to start moving). We will have to just remember to disable that feature, but how do you explain that if we want to sell the car eventually? And why should we have to accept our vehicle not having the all the features we were sold? It is still on original warranty, but we did buy the extended warranty with the expectation that any issues that arise would be covered. If this is how Honda treats customers we definitely won't be one again.
I certainly can see your frustration with this vehicle. This start/stop feature gliching in the middle of the intersection is very dangerous. This in my opinion trumps all your concerns, even the concern of selling the vehicle with the feature disabled. I doubt seriously that with it disabled, that it will be a negative. It's a positive to me. Your used vehicle traded or sold is in high demand. You can disable the feature and enjoy your vehicle that you have invested in, or some one else will. If it were mine, I'd disable the start/stop feature and the VCM, then drive the wheels off of it. 😁
 
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