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Its totally random. I can turn off & on 6x in a row with no problem after it happens. Why would it start back up at all if the battery was the true culprit? I am going to let them replace the battery for free tomorrow but that is freaking stupid if its just recur again soon like some of the others have said is happening after new battery til they finally traded the car in after being sick of it.. And again, disabling the feature is a very temporary and unreliable solution since it resets everything on restart. I am not going to disable my 40k car's feature with a permanent hack unless honda wants to do it and write me a check for the 700 to 1k value of the feature
This feature was designed to boost Honda's mpg numbers. It was done at the consumers expense of wear and tear on the vehicles components. The only way this is going away is to press the button every time you start the vehicle, permanently disable it or sell/trade the vehicle and let it be someone else's problem. If your planning on keeping it long term after the waranty period is over, I'd search for a permanent solution.
 
Its totally random. I can turn off & on 6x in a row with no problem after it happens. Why would it start back up at all if the battery was the true culprit? I am going to let them replace the battery for free tomorrow but that is freaking stupid if its just recur again soon like some of the others have said is happening after new battery til they finally traded the car in after being sick of it.. And again, disabling the feature is a very temporary and unreliable solution since it resets everything on restart. I am not going to disable my 40k car's feature with a permanent hack unless honda wants to do it and write me a check for the 700 to 1k value of the feature
So what's the difference between putting a vehicle in reverse or drive and turning off the system temporarily? They are both buttons, they are both side by side and they all "reset the system" every time you turn off the vehicle.
 
This feature was designed to boost Honda's mpg numbers. It was done at the consumers expense of wear and tear on the vehicles components. The only way this is going away is to press the button every time you start the vehicle, permanently disable it or sell/trade the vehicle and let it be someone else's problem. If your planning on keeping it long term after the waranty period is over, I'd search for a permanent solution.
Selling or trading isn't going to solve the issue. It is here and here to stay with all manufactures. The incentive they receive from the goberment is enough to ensure that alone. As for a permanent solution, if you bypass the system you are tampering with the emissions system which is a big federal no no. Best solution is to just push the freaking button. It becomes a simple habit after a very short period of time.
 
Selling or trading isn't going to solve the issue. It is here and here to stay with all manufactures. The incentive they receive from the goberment is enough to ensure that alone. As for a permanent solution, if you bypass the system you are tampering with the emissions system which is a big federal no no. Best solution is to just push the freaking button. It becomes a simple habit after a very short period of time.
Your bypassing it by pressing the button. It obviously isn't a requirement for every new vehicle sold to have this active. Yes, press the button.
 
Your bypassing it by pressing the button. It obviously isn't a requirement for every new vehicle sold to have this active. Yes, press the button.
In a sense, but I am doing so in a legal manner as I am not making any changes to the emission system, just using the features as installed.
 
In a sense, but I am doing so in a legal manner as I am not making any changes to the emission system, just using the features as installed.
I don't advocate doing anything illegal. Let me rephrase. A temporary solution without removing equipment.
 
I don't advocate doing anything illegal. Let me rephrase. A temporary solution without removing equipment.
Removing equipment is not the issue when it comes to the legality. One can modify with out removing, still doesn't make it legal.

I heard the same gripes from old folks years ago when car manufacturers moved the dimmer button from under the drivers left foot to the steering column. It's no harder to develop good habits as it is to develop bad habits, and bad habits are certainly in abundance in this world.
 
Removing equipment is not the issue when it comes to the legality. One can modify with out removing, still doesn't make it legal.

I heard the same gripes from old folks years ago when car manufacturers moved the dimmer button from under the drivers left foot to the steering column. It's no harder to develop good habits as it is to develop bad habits, and bad habits are certainly in abundance in this world.
Well apparently you have a temporary solution without removing equipment that isn't illegal. Yes, just push the button like everyone else or buy a Pilot without the feature.
 
Mine was the battery causing this. Not a very good design if the battery can start the car but not restart it after cutting idle cutting toward the end of each batteries life. I feel like its only a matter of time til someone dies from this. It is very odd that the battey can restart the car after reset. (Putting in park, powering off and back on) Plus I had to buy the battery and pay for install because honda only warranties the original battery 36 months or 36k miles for some reason. I had 37k miles after 24 months.replacements they warrant for straight years like everywhere else.
 
Replacing the battery is a temporary fix. I'm on my second new battery in 9 months. Honda replaced the battery 9 DAYS ago after stalling in an intersection, and it is already giving me trouble again.

I was able to get it on video, and it seems they might be taking it a bit more seriously now. I dealt directly with a seasoned technician, and Honda Engineers are fully aware of this problem My car is supposed to go back in next week ...
 
Replacing the battery is a temporary fix. I'm on my second new battery in 9 months. Honda replaced the battery 9 DAYS ago after stalling in an intersection, and it is already giving me trouble again.

I was able to get it on video, and it seems they might be taking it a bit more seriously now. I dealt directly with a seasoned technician, and Honda Engineers are fully aware of this problem My car is supposed to go back in next week ...
Interested in what the next step they come up with is. Please keep us informed.
 
136992


This is my latest service summary for this issue. I will report back if it has made any difference. I'm just about at 36K, and will keep taking the car back if it persists. I've been assured that it will be covered since the issue arose prior to 36K.
 
Having the same issue all of you are experiencing on a 2018 Honda Pilot Elite currently at 22k miles. It first appeared about a month or two ago with all the alarms flashing on the dash and cleared itself after a couple hours of shutting off. I thought that was the end of it. It’s Memorial week 2020 and I had it twice in three days now. It started after I stopped at a red light and started to make a left turn, that’s when the car stuttered for a bit and every alarm came on. Acceleration was hard and steering the wheel was slightly harder. RPM and the speedometer is at 0 when I’m driving with all the alarms flashing. I will see if I can get my car in for service today as it should still be under warranty and I got the Honda maintenance package too. Hopefully they have an update to this issue by now.
Heading into week 3 now and the dealer shop still hasn’t found a permanent fix yet. Lights still flashes and seems like the car is stuck in 4th or 5th gear when I start to accelerate after stopping, then revs up to 4K rom at 35 mph.
 
View attachment 136992

This is my latest service summary for this issue. I will report back if it has made any difference. I'm just about at 36K, and will keep taking the car back if it persists. I've been assured that it will be covered since the issue arose prior to 36K.
I guess I'm a little lost on the connection to loose valves causing low voltage, seems odd to me. I guess, in theory, that the loose valves make the engine more difficult to start, dropping system voltage below the 6-7V threshold; but, it still seems like a stretch. Makes me also wonder how they tightened them up; was it just a lash adjuster/lifter adjustment or did they need to go in and clean/reseat the valves and/or install upgraded valve springs? Either way, thank you for sharing; definitely interested to know if the problem returns and the valves are 'loose' again.
 
Unfortunately the valve clearances before and after adjustment are not recorded. I would think engine performance would be severely impacted if the valve clearances were out of adjustment enough to cause a starting problem.
 
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