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I do not see many people mentioning use of the vcm tuner. Have there been any problems?

VCM Tuner is same as a VCMuzzler II except the VCM Tuner uses a variable resistor instead of the plug-in resistor on VCMuzzler II. I'm using both setups on my 2 Honda's, both with 100 ohm settings. Happy with both.


If you use either device. Recommend using a OBD reader to verify the temperature setting. I use a Bluetooth OBD reader and an Android tablet with Torque software monitoring your ECT1 sensor. You want the temp to average just below 167 degrees, mine run consistent 165 degrees using the 100 ohm setting. If your settings run around 159 degrees you will get CEL's.


I would like to see people post temperatures while using S-VCM to see how it compares with the others.
 

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Thank you.
I think I'll try the tuner on my 14 Pilot. The S VCM Controller bothers me a little about hooking up to the battery. Might wait and see if it develops any issues over the next year or two.
 

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Thank you.
I think I'll try the tuner on my 14 Pilot. The S VCM Controller bothers me a little about hooking up to the battery. Might wait and see if it develops any issues over the next year or two.
My concern is the constant battery connection, even thou the drain is very low. I would defiantly put a small in-line fuse to the battery. Should always use a fuse when connecting directly to the battery. Has anyone tried connecting to a switched ACCY or Ignition source? Would most likely have to run a wire from inside the cabin fuse box sense most of the fuses in the engine bay are hot most of the time.
 

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So I take it that the resistor change is needed on those areas where they have cold weather... ? Not sure i want to be out there changing no darn resistor at -20 f :grin:

Or could these be run all year around with the variable climate changes ?
 

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Happy with S-VCM

I've got the S-VCM and have been happy with it.

Just towed 1400 lbs + family & gear up to 6500' altitude with it, monitoring both the ATF temp and the engine temp using my OBDII scanner and Torque Pro app. Engine temp was very consistent the entire time, mostly deviating only when I slowed down to parking-lot speeds. I don't remember now if it was 161.7 or 167.1
but I have never seen the ECO light nor any CELs since I installed it.
 

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S-VCM power toggle switch

My concern is the constant battery connection, even thou the drain is very low. I would defiantly put a small in-line fuse to the battery. Should always use a fuse when connecting directly to the battery. Has anyone tried connecting to a switched ACCY or Ignition source? Would most likely have to run a wire from inside the cabin fuse box sense most of the fuses in the engine bay are hot most of the time.
I installed S-VCM a few weeks ago on my recently purchased 2011, 92,000 miles. I did just this. I spliced on additional wire onto the S-VCM module and ran the wire through the firewall on the driver's side. I wired in a simple 12V toggle switch and double side taped it under the dash hidden and out of size. I then completed the circuit by using a fused "add a circuit" fuse harness and plugged this into the the accessory circuit on the interior fuse panel (which only has power when the key is at the "accessory" position or at the '"on" position). This allows for the S-VCM module to only power on with the ignition.

With the installed toggle switch under the dash, I now can actually turn the VCM system on and off using the toggle switch while driving. Even when powering the S-VCM module on an off while driving does not trigger any check engine lights and runs of VCM 100% of the time with the flip of a switch.
 

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I'm still trying to decide too....

S-VCM Controller

I worry about;

1. The long term reliability.
2. No Fuse? The seller can say all he wants about what's inside. I feel a Fuse is a MUST!
3. Quality
-3a. I've heard of the battery wire corroding.
-3b. I've seen pics where it looked like wires were coming out of the "Magic Box" exposed. (Wasn't super clear though).


VCMuzzler II

I worry about;

1. Will the fake values keep fans from coming on? I don't want it running hotter than it has to.
2. Other problems from not seeing overheating.
3. Price. Seems high compared to other similar options.

I still haven't pulled the trigger on a solution...
 

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S-VCM has held up well for me. No battery drain, no eco light, and a consistent temp reading 163.5 (using for the last 6months on 2012 Crosstour 4WD). i get 18-19 in town and 22 on the highway.
i didn't add a fuse or switch and haven't experienced any issues. a fuse would be extremely easy to splice in.
quality is top notch on the unit i received.
like anything attached at the battery, if you keep your connections clean and tight you shouldn't have to worry about corrosion.
 

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I'm still trying to decide too....

S-VCM Controller

I worry about;

1. The long term reliability.
2. No Fuse? The seller can say all he wants about what's inside. I feel a Fuse is a MUST!
3. Quality
-3a. I've heard of the battery wire corroding.
-3b. I've seen pics where it looked like wires were coming out of the "Magic Box" exposed. (Wasn't super clear though).


VCMuzzler II

I worry about;

1. Will the fake values keep fans from coming on? I don't want it running hotter than it has to.
2. Other problems from not seeing overheating.
3. Price. Seems high compared to other similar options.

I still haven't pulled the trigger on a solution...

I have been using the VCMuzzler for two years now with excellent results. The simplicity is a big plus IMO. There are two things that change as a result of the install. 1) ECO mode is non existent. 2) The temp gauge reads a very slight bit lower. That's it. Everything else, cooling fans included, operate 100% as it did before installing VCMuzzler. As for the price. The cost of VCMuzzler is a very small price to pay for a great running engine over the long term. I have zero regrets.
 

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This is all interesting and such, I have an inquisitive mind and not knowing about this method to disable VCM which I have been hating on since I bought my 2009 pilot new. I constructed my own version of Verbatim's device to try it out. Sorry but I build harnessing and design mobile controls systems for equipment and such, so I have all the parts and equipment at my disposal. I wonder more about the circuit of the ECT1 sensor and the S-VCM Controller, we have a power wire and no ground wire which leads me to believe that the sensor or the ECM is providing ground for the device. Having worked with a few different types of modules that tie into vehicle ECM's. I wonder if this could be configured into a small unit that one could tie into the signal wire before it runs into the computer(hidden from prying eyes and hooked up via ACC fuse and discrete switch for disabling for service visits). I'm planning on replacing my pilot at some point and if I need to disable the VCM I would consider a solution like that.
 

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I keep getting an error when trying to reply...so, excuse me if this shows up multiple times.
My 2011 pilot variable timing solenoid is bad and I was wondering if I can bypass it with the VCMuzzler and avoid replacing the solenoid?
 

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I keep getting an error when trying to reply...so, excuse me if this shows up multiple times.
My 2011 pilot variable timing solenoid is bad and I was wondering if I can bypass it with the VCMuzzler and avoid replacing the solenoid?

It seems to me you want to replace that solenoid ASAP, or you may not get sufficient oil flow to critical parts. While it may play a part in the VCM, it controls valve lift and is critical to good engine performance.
 

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......................
 

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I bought my VCMuzzler in 2015, been on our Pilot since. Works flawlessly for 50k+ miles. Very rarely when I'm driving it harder than normal I'll see the ECO light click on but it's for a short duration. I also no longer have oil consumption issues or fouled plugs. I've been very pleased with it. So pleased that I've contacted him for another, wife just upgraded to a MDX last month. Figure I'll go ahead and bypass now before issues show up!
 

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I bought my VCMuzzler in 2015, been on our Pilot since. Works flawlessly for 50k+ miles. Very rarely when I'm driving it harder than normal I'll see the ECO light click on but it's for a short duration. I also no longer have oil consumption issues or fouled plugs. I've been very pleased with it. So pleased that I've contacted him for another, wife just upgraded to a MDX last month. Figure I'll go ahead and bypass now before issues show up!
I'm thinking the VCMuzzler is the way I'm going to go. Just waiting for the next Credit Card Cycle hehe

I rather ECO Lamp come on once in a great while than not at all. Which resistor are you using? Did you have to change it higher, or lower?

Thanks in advance...
 

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S-VCM has held up well for me. No battery drain, no eco light, and a consistent temp reading 163.5 (using for the last 6months on 2012 Crosstour 4WD). i get 18-19 in town and 22 on the highway.
i didn't add a fuse or switch and haven't experienced any issues. a fuse would be extremely easy to splice in.
quality is top notch on the unit i received.
like anything attached at the battery, if you keep your connections clean and tight you shouldn't have to worry about corrosion.
Good to know - what year is your Pilot? what speeds have t noticed the vibrations of the VCM? Going to remove the VCMuzzler II which isn't working on my 2018 Pilot. I'm waiting for mine so I can install.
 

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I'm thinking the VCMuzzler is the way I'm going to go. Just waiting for the next Credit Card Cycle hehe

I rather ECO Lamp come on once in a great while than not at all. Which resistor are you using? Did you have to change it higher, or lower?

Thanks in advance...
I'm using the blue one. I've used it year round since I installed it. I've kept the red one in the glove box but never swapped it. I'm in Southeast Tennessee with temps ranging from 100 (typically 90-95 in the summer but peaks occasionally as high as a 100) to lows in the 20s during winter (typically 30-40s).
 

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I'm using the blue one. I've used it year round since I installed it. I've kept the red one in the glove box but never swapped it. I'm in Southeast Tennessee with temps ranging from 100 (typically 90-95 in the summer but peaks occasionally as high as a 100) to lows in the 20s during winter (typically 30-40s).

I just ordered the VCMuzzler. I'm in MAss. Sounds like I'd want the blue to start too. We might run a little colder than you in winter, but not many days...

It's for Daughter's pilot I just bought her. I hope to use whichever resistor will keep the ECO light off 98% of the time. It's a 2012 with 130k on it. Had the timing belt and plugs done about 25k ago.

I did a lot of research before I got her something good for the winter, and out of all the 3-row vehicles the Pilot had the best forum talks. I looked for the good and the bad and found the pilot had the most threads with people talking about "High odometer readings". The pilot had plenting talking 400k, 300k, etc... The others didn't even come close. Most others seemed focused on tranny problems.

Anyway, we drove one we found and loved it. Now I want one too :) I have a Sonic Hatch. Love it, cause it's like a go-cart, but HORRIBLE in the snow....

I was debating the S-VCM, but I'm not interested in running wires. The site and info sounds great, but the part about it lasting longer than a resistor, seemed too sales pitchy to me.... I'm an EE.

I'm hoping this VCMuzzler will help her make it up into the 300k club, at least without any major repair costs. We KNOW who's pocket that'll come out of. haha

Anyway, thanks for all the info.
 

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Anytime! And I'd say 99.5% of the time my ECO light is off. It's just when I'm driving it like it's a sports car when it comes on for a moment. And I fully expect our Pilot to last 300k+ easily. It stays in a climate controlled garage at home and travels to a parking garage for work and I'm meticulous about maintenance. I may get to see it hit 300k but I have no doubt it'll get there. I'll probably sell it since she bought a new MDX, I like it but I just sold my truck and work beater with plans to upgrade me to a sportier car. So far I've been hesitant to drop the coin for what I really want (2016 BMW M3). I rarely see any snow where I'm at and if it comes they usually put all of us up in a hotel (management for transmission system operators).
 

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Since I'm now back in the market to replace my VCM tuner style mod ..oh BTW for those in the Salt belt like myself : FYI : salt will make the connections stick together ...brittle and break... found this out when I needed to take out mine for warranty items at the dealership. I may just order the pigtail and crimp new connections.

I did notice though that VM tuner II now is out there I guess vs the muzzler II style ... interesting ..
 
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