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I installed S-VCM a few weeks ago on my recently purchased 2011, 92,000 miles. I did just this. I spliced on additional wire onto the S-VCM module and ran the wire through the firewall on the driver's side. I wired in a simple 12V toggle switch and double side taped it under the dash hidden and out of size. I then completed the circuit by using a fused "add a circuit" fuse harness and plugged this into the the accessory circuit on the interior fuse panel (which only has power when the key is at the "accessory" position or at the '"on" position). This allows for the S-VCM module to only power on with the ignition.

With the installed toggle switch under the dash, I now can actually turn the VCM system on and off using the toggle switch while driving. Even when powering the S-VCM module on an off while driving does not trigger any check engine lights and runs of VCM 100% of the time with the flip of a switch.

Sorry to pull up this old thread but I was interested to hear more about the switched s-vcm.


I was actually thinking about using the factory ECO switch to engage/disengage the s-vcm. This would give the ECO switch real meaning. ;)



I didn't know if cutting the power to the s-vcm during regular operation would throw a CEL or not.
 

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I have had the VCM on my 09 touring for about 2 years now and today the Pilot stalled while going down the road, luckily residential street at 5 MPH.
See the Temp Gauge?? I am worried that the VCM may/will damage the engine as it did not let the car register high temp and when it couldn't take it anymore the Car stalled.
I have only 78k miles so wondering if the water pump may be an issue?
I pulled over and the Pilot started right up and sounded very smooth, but now I have the "Check Engine" light and the Display shows "Check Emission System" and "Water Temp Hot" message.
I'll take it to my mechanic tomorrow and see what Codes it displays.


133998
Check engine light
 

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I have had the VCM on my 09 touring for about 2 years now and today the Pilot stalled while going down the road, luckily residential street at 5 MPH.
See the Temp Gauge?? I am worried that the VCM may/will damage the engine as it did not let the car register high temp and when it couldn't take it anymore the Car stalled.
I have only 78k miles so wondering if the water pump may be an issue?
I pulled over and the Pilot started right up and sounded very smooth, but now I have the "Check Engine" light and the Display shows "Check Emission System" and "Water Temp Hot" message.
I'll take it to my mechanic tomorrow and see what Codes it displays.
Check engine light
Your post is confusing. Which model device did you buy/install? The S-VCM, or the VCMuzzler II, or something else?
 

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Your post is confusing. Which model device did you buy/install? The S-VCM, or the VCMuzzler II, or something else?
I had the "VCMTUNER for 2007+ models CARB 120"
The funny thing is that the Radiator Cap is not hot at all and the coolant is at good level.
I am thinking I have a Stuck Thermostat.
I'll remove the VCM Tuner and check...
 

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I had the "VCMTUNER for 2007+ models CARB 120"
The funny thing is that the Radiator Cap is not hot at all and the coolant is at good level.
I am thinking I have a Stuck Thermostat.
I'll remove the VCM Tuner and check...
Interesting. Stuck tstat, or bad temp sensor, or bad VCMTuner. I hope it really didn't get that hot!

The VCMTuner is a simple resistor. It does not keep it from showing changes in temperature. It simply changes the needle position because of the change in resistance. With a resistor in place, the needle still goes up in an overheat condition, it just doesn't go all the way up in the range. If yours was pegged, that means the car DID get "told" from the sensor circuit that the resistance is very low. This makes me wonder if you likely have a failed ECT sensor, or your VCMtuner failed.

The simplest thing to do, is to remove the VCMtuner, check fluid levels, and start the car watching the temp gauge. The fans should kick in when full operating temp is reached, although that might take a while depending on your ambient temps. You can feel your upper radiator hose, it should get hot after a bit, as the thermostat opens.
 

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Interesting. Stuck tstat, or bad temp sensor, or bad VCMTuner. I hope it really didn't get that hot!

The VCMTuner is a simple resistor. It does not keep it from showing changes in temperature. It simply changes the needle position because of the change in resistance. With a resistor in place, the needle still goes up in an overheat condition, it just doesn't go all the way up in the range. If yours was pegged, that means the car DID get "told" from the sensor circuit that the resistance is very low. This makes me wonder if you likely have a failed ECT sensor, or your VCMtuner failed.

The simplest thing to do, is to remove the VCMtuner, check fluid levels, and start the car watching the temp gauge. The fans should kick in when full operating temp is reached, although that might take a while depending on your ambient temps. You can feel your upper radiator hose, it should get hot after a bit, as the thermostat opens.
My Mechanic is busy until later today so I am trying to diagnose as much as I can an I agree the Sensor and stat may be the culprits.
The radiator Hose is not that hot and the Fans have not kicked in even when the car is telling me it is HOT.
I have not removed the Tuner yet, but I'll update in another hour after I remove it. :)
 

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UPDATE:
Code P1108, mechanic replaced Thermostat, pilot running okay.
I have removed VCM Tuner for now and I will Monitor for anything.
 

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P1108 is a barometric pressure fault, which is inside the ECU. That's weird.
 

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Does anyone have any experience with the new S-VCM controller? I’m very intrigued by it, and have in fact purchased one. While the VCMuzzler II does seem to suppress the VCM, I can’t help but be worried that even a minor cooling system malfunction may take out the whole engine. The VCMuzzler manufacturer has represented it as simply an offset in the coolant temperature reading, and that may be true around the 167 degree mark, but because it adds baseline OHMs, the temperature gauge can never truly show when the engine has overheated. Anyhow, wanted to see if anyone else had these concerns, and whether you’ll be giving the S-VCM a try.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/S-VCM-Contro...660318?hash=item239373449e:g:1ZcAAOSwCY9ZmjIs
 

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I just bought the S-VCM and installed it last week.
I think I made the right choice not getting those with ohms plug-ins
One for the north, another for the south.

The S-VCM is wired to the battery and that's it.
I felt the cylinders flipping back and forth.
I read about the lawsuit a while back and the damage that it caused.
Although I have a 2019 I was still concerned.

I found the S-VCM to be the best choice.
Once installed several codes came up, but after driving for the day, they were all gone.
The S-VCM had seated in as expected.
My mileage in local traffic improved quite a bit.
My highway mileage improved as well.
And let me tell you I am a real stickler about my mileage.
My Pilot knows the difference with every tank full.
As I travel from Up-State NY to Daytona FL.

In my opinion running on 6 cylinder puts less stress on the engine
which in turn uses less gas.

I personally think Honda over thought this 3,4-6 cylinder design.
 

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I have actually taken it off after having it for 2+ years. I noticed significant engine drag resulting in at least 50 MPG reduction. It blew my thermostat, could have been normal, but at 65,000 miles I doubt it.
After removing the VCM I have noticed the Pilot is running smoother and gas mileage has improved, especially on highway driving.
 
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