Hi, on my 2005 Honda Pilot LX 4WD, when the check engine light and VTM-4 light flashed intermittently, it was induced by the failing throttle body. Thus does the throttle body need to be replaced or just serviced? I was quoted a price of $500 and up and that's too much for me. Need your help/advice. Thanks
Replace or service throttle body for 2005 Honda Pilot LX 4WD?
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reyah99
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For anyone who goes out and changes the rear diff oil: make sure you take the FILL bolt off first. Chances are no one has touched those bolts in a while (hence you changing it now), and it might be seized. You don't want to drain the oil without a way to fill it back up.
PB Blaster for the win.
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PB Blaster for the win.
--Chris N.
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Also, please help to clarify different advice:
1. Independent garage/mechanic said service or replace throttle body but Honda dealer said prioritize accelerator pedal sensor assembly first. He as per DTCS P2138. I'm confused, please help.
1. Independent garage/mechanic said service or replace throttle body but Honda dealer said prioritize accelerator pedal sensor assembly first. He as per DTCS P2138. I'm confused, please help.
Take a look at this link. It sounds like they are both suggesting valid points of failure. If it was my vehicle and a 50/50 chance of it being one or the other I’d go with the cheaper of the two fixes first.
I am getting the P2138 code as well as random throttle issues and dash lights including CEL, VTM-4, VSA, and a triangle with exclamation mark. The car then goes into a limp mode, barely moving forward, but the engine is running smoothly.
Im pretty sure this has nothing to do with VTM-4 etc. But more to do with the throttle disagree code, P2138. The throttle position disagree issue then triggers the computer into a fit and shows lights that arent really the issue. This means it could be one of two sensors in the throttle system- The pedal position sensor or the throttle position sensor. When you ask for a throttle position with your foot, the pedal position sensor detects the pedal position and send the ECU a voltage corresponding to position between .5 and 5 V. The computer then sends the position request to the throttle body to open the throttle to what the pedal sensor said you want. If the two sensors disagree you get the code.
The pedal sensor is easy to access and easy to test. Its on the passenger side of the dash and you can see the throttle cable going across the dash leading to it. To test put a volt meter on the black wire (gnd) and brown/yellow (sensor) wire. Start engine and turn off, but leave in run. You should show .5 volts at idle, and it should slowly rise to almost 5 volts at full throttle (motor off). If it jumps around, sticks on one voltage, etc, it is probably bad. A tip on testing- I stuck sewing needles into the back side of the sensor plug into where the wire is crimped to the pin. Then connect the gator clips to that. Mine seemed to test good. Looks like a new pedal sensor is about $75.
The throttle sensor can be checked the same way. You just have to figure out what wire is the ground and what is the sensor wire. I havnt done that yet. One could say if the pedal sensor checked good, then the problem must be the throttle position sensor. Except its around $275 for a cheap reman or up to $900 for OEM. So that part is on hold. The plug connection is difficult to access. So Ill have to wait for further motivation to check it.
Anyone else have any fixes or success for dash lights, P2138 and limp mode?
Im pretty sure this has nothing to do with VTM-4 etc. But more to do with the throttle disagree code, P2138. The throttle position disagree issue then triggers the computer into a fit and shows lights that arent really the issue. This means it could be one of two sensors in the throttle system- The pedal position sensor or the throttle position sensor. When you ask for a throttle position with your foot, the pedal position sensor detects the pedal position and send the ECU a voltage corresponding to position between .5 and 5 V. The computer then sends the position request to the throttle body to open the throttle to what the pedal sensor said you want. If the two sensors disagree you get the code.
The pedal sensor is easy to access and easy to test. Its on the passenger side of the dash and you can see the throttle cable going across the dash leading to it. To test put a volt meter on the black wire (gnd) and brown/yellow (sensor) wire. Start engine and turn off, but leave in run. You should show .5 volts at idle, and it should slowly rise to almost 5 volts at full throttle (motor off). If it jumps around, sticks on one voltage, etc, it is probably bad. A tip on testing- I stuck sewing needles into the back side of the sensor plug into where the wire is crimped to the pin. Then connect the gator clips to that. Mine seemed to test good. Looks like a new pedal sensor is about $75.
The throttle sensor can be checked the same way. You just have to figure out what wire is the ground and what is the sensor wire. I havnt done that yet. One could say if the pedal sensor checked good, then the problem must be the throttle position sensor. Except its around $275 for a cheap reman or up to $900 for OEM. So that part is on hold. The plug connection is difficult to access. So Ill have to wait for further motivation to check it.
Anyone else have any fixes or success for dash lights, P2138 and limp mode?
Do what you did to test the pedal sensor. Except this time remove the large air intake hose to get eyes on the throttle body butterfly valve. If you haven't cleaned it, or cleaned it recently, see if it is moving.
When you clean it, DO NOT spray it with cleaner. Spray a rag and apply the cleaner, and use another rag to clean/dry it. With another person with their foot on the gas peddle the butterfly valve should open if you do what you outline above. Do not move the butterfly valve by hand. Use a toothbrush or other soft bristle brush to clean the butterfly valve. Do not use metal. Make sure to clean everything dry. If you leave it wet/moist this will just settle at the lowest point, and dry causing sticking again, and clog your Throttle Body.
Did you recently move the butterfly valve by hand? I wouldn't recommend ever forcing to move, but if you are forced to do this. Disconnect the wire harness first, and move it very slowly, and close it very slowly. You can feel the motor resistance, you don't want to destroy this connection by forcing it if it binds, or moving it to fast.
When you clean it, DO NOT spray it with cleaner. Spray a rag and apply the cleaner, and use another rag to clean/dry it. With another person with their foot on the gas peddle the butterfly valve should open if you do what you outline above. Do not move the butterfly valve by hand. Use a toothbrush or other soft bristle brush to clean the butterfly valve. Do not use metal. Make sure to clean everything dry. If you leave it wet/moist this will just settle at the lowest point, and dry causing sticking again, and clog your Throttle Body.
Did you recently move the butterfly valve by hand? I wouldn't recommend ever forcing to move, but if you are forced to do this. Disconnect the wire harness first, and move it very slowly, and close it very slowly. You can feel the motor resistance, you don't want to destroy this connection by forcing it if it binds, or moving it to fast.
Royalbiggster- So I guess if I take the intake hose off of the throttle body I could visually look at the butterfly valve opening and closing if I have someone working the pedal. I would just have to verify that they are moving the pedal smoothly. That may be easier than removing the boot on the wire connector and working on the back side of the part to find the correct wires to test. The other problem is this is an intermittent issue. But Ill give this a try and see what I get.
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