When was the last time your VTM-4 fluid was changed? If you can't remember, start with that.

Can you get the codes read?

 

I think there are two things you can do to clean the throttle body. The first is to clean the MAP sensor with an appropriate spray. The other thing you can do is clean the deposits off the butterfly plate and surrounding area. If you end up removing the throttle body from the intake manifold, so that you can clean the engine side, you’ll likely need to replace the gasket. Mine was stuck on and required a razor blade to remove it. But what makes you think the throttle body is going bad?

Welcome to the forum.

 

Thank you for your prompt response, it was enlightening.

The throttle body issue was derived from a code readout from the plug in code tester. However, I forgot to ask for the code from the mechanic.

Our problem was the performance was intermittent and the check engine light goes on and stays on for a while then turns off for several days and comes back on. When that happens, the power diminishes to a crawl triggered by the VTM-4 light that so goes on and off for a while. As a result, I switch the ignition off and let the car rest for a little while. After I turn the ignition back on, I head back out on the road. It will repeat a vicious cycle.

I thought it was due to the spark plug and ignition coil as per the other help sources. However, the NAPA mechanic ruled it out and said it's due to the throttle body as pulled out from the code tester.

 

A DIY cleaning of the throttle body is not too difficult and won't cost very much. It may not take care of the problem but it might and it sure won't hurt if it hasn't ever been done. While you're at it I'd also do a cleaning of the MAF sensor. Each one will require its own SPECIFIC spray cleaner. I did mine last week and a can of each cost me less than $15 total. However, a heads up on the throttle body intake assembly; when I took mine (2011 Pilot) off the throttle body to get at it the rubber had dried and cracked leaving an open crack halfway around the circumference in the middle of the intake. That was $40 bucks at a local auto parts store and I lucked out there was one open since this happened at 3PM on a Sunday afternoon.

Honda throttle body cleaning and relearn

Restore optimal performance in your Honda with a throttle body cleaning. Then perform a Honda throttle body relearn procedure

ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com

 

While you're at it I'd also do a cleaning of the MAF sensor.

Scotty's such a hoot. I know he might drive some people nuts, but even taking off points for clickbait titles and hyperbole, it beats watching SpongeBob SquarePants.

Just a note for folks in the 2003-2008 subforum: we have a MAP sensor. Semantics, maybe, but there you go.

 

Also does the vtm-4 fluid need a top up?

I may have missed maintaining the vtm-4 fluid. Do i need to bring it to the dealership to replace it or maintain it? Also where do they add the vtm-4 fluid? Is it to the differential?

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.

 

Also does the vtm-4 fluid need a top up?

I may have missed maintaining the vtm-4 fluid. Do i need to bring it to the dealership to replace it or maintain it? Also where do they add the vtm-4 fluid? Is it to the differential?

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.

You bet it does, especially if you can't remember if it's ever been done. Use only Honda VTM-4 fluid. You can DIY it with a little hand pump. Tip: lower the spare for easier access. And loosen the fill bolt first, just in case.

 

also is it safe to drive for only 54 miles (86 km) to the Honda dealer in Morristown, Tennessee with the following problems: 1) check engine light (CEL) coming on and staying on after parking; 2) VTM-4 light that goes on like 10min or 5min after the CEL lights on; 3) a code identifying a throttle body problem was identified by a certain code that shows impaired acceleration & deceleration; 4) inconsistent tightness of the steering that a mechanic says could be a rack & pinion issue.

Thank you very much for your responses, I greatly appreciate them!

 

also is it safe to drive for only 54 miles (86 km) to the Honda dealer in Morristown, Tennessee with the following problems: 1) check engine light (CEL) coming on and staying on after parking; 2) VTM-4 light that goes on like 10min or 5min after the CEL lights on; 3) a code identifying a throttle body problem was identified by a certain code that shows impaired acceleration & deceleration; 4) inconsistent tightness of the steering that a mechanic says could be a rack & pinion issue.

If you're going to drive that far to the dealer with issues 3+4 it might be worthwhile to consider flat bed tow. Dealer evaluation could be worthwhile as well as an estimate for the repairs. Maybe you will get lucky needing only PS and VTM-4 fluid replacement.

 

If there is a shop in your town which specializes in Honda you might consider that. But if you need to drive it any significant distance I’m with Aggrex that the flatbed tow might be the way to go. Driving a vehicle with impaired acceleration is not something I would recommend.

 

Hey everyone. Also how many TPMS sensors are really required? The mechanic only replaced the front right and left rear sensors but the TPMS still lights up persistently. Do I really need to replace all 4 TPMS sensors on my 2005 Honda Pilot 4wd LX?

 

Yes because the batteries die on the sensors and you'll eventually change them all out anyways at some point if you want it functioning correctly.

 

There is a sensor scanner some tire places have that can determine which TPMS sensors are bad (not transmitting) by putting it up against each tire.

However, since installing TMPS sensors is usually done when tires are removed from rims (there are some iffy workarounds), it's best practice to replace all four at once, so you don't have to go back and replace them one at a time when they die at staggered times. Easiest time to do that is when you get new tires put on, as the batteries in TPMS sensors typically last seven to ten years.

 

Also does 2005 Honda Pilot LX have a 4 wheel TPMS sensor as standard equipment? We experienced the check engine light (CEL) lighting up and VTM-4 lighting up whenever the TPMS light on the dash lights up. We need help, it's really urgent! We got stranded just off the interstate (I-75). Luckily, after I shut off the engine for 15 minutes, I was able to restart the car and thus was able to proceed. Thanks God!

 

We experienced the check engine light (CEL) lighting up and VTM-4 lighting up whenever the TPMS light on the dash lights up. We need help, it's really urgent! We got stranded just off the interstate (I-75). Luckily, after I shut off the engine for 15 minutes, I was able to restart the car and thus was able to proceed. Thanks God!

Doubtful TPMS is the primary culprit for getting stranded. Take the Pilot to a local auto parts store (Advance/Autozone) for free code scan and post them here for discussion. Something more than TPMS might be going on.

 

The 2006 does. Can't say for a 2005. Surely @Rocky knows, since he had a 2005.

 

The 2005 has TPMS sensors as standard equipment. As mentioned above, I have not had TPMS, CEL, and VTM-4 light come on at the same time. Get the codes read so you know what you're up against.

Did you end up having the rear differential (VTM-4) fluid changed? You mentioned there was a VTM-4 issue a few months ago.

 

What ever happened? My VTM-4 light was on a lot until I changed the differential fluid. It did come on randomly until after I cleaned all the intake stuff and replaced the upper coolant temp sensor and idle air control sensor. It stays off now and my idle is great. I'm sure I will have more tweeking in the near future but making sure your air intakes are all clear will help you get accurate readings on other sensors.

 

For anyone who goes out and changes the rear diff oil: make sure you take the FILL bolt off first. Chances are no one has touched those bolts in a while (hence you changing it now), and it might be seized. You don't want to drain the oil without a way to fill it back up.

PB Blaster for the win.

--Chris N.

 

Also, please help to clarify different advice:
1. Independent garage/mechanic said service or replace throttle body but Honda dealer said prioritize accelerator pedal sensor assembly first. He as per DTCS P2138. I'm confused, please help.

 

Take a look at this link. It sounds like they are both suggesting valid points of failure. If it was my vehicle and a 50/50 chance of it being one or the other I’d go with the cheaper of the two fixes first.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.carparts.com/blog/p2138-code-throttlepedal-position-sensorswitch-de-voltage-correlation/amp/

 

I am getting the P2138 code as well as random throttle issues and dash lights including CEL, VTM-4, VSA, and a triangle with exclamation mark. The car then goes into a limp mode, barely moving forward, but the engine is running smoothly.
Im pretty sure this has nothing to do with VTM-4 etc. But more to do with the throttle disagree code, P2138. The throttle position disagree issue then triggers the computer into a fit and shows lights that arent really the issue. This means it could be one of two sensors in the throttle system- The pedal position sensor or the throttle position sensor. When you ask for a throttle position with your foot, the pedal position sensor detects the pedal position and send the ECU a voltage corresponding to position between .5 and 5 V. The computer then sends the position request to the throttle body to open the throttle to what the pedal sensor said you want. If the two sensors disagree you get the code.

The pedal sensor is easy to access and easy to test. Its on the passenger side of the dash and you can see the throttle cable going across the dash leading to it. To test put a volt meter on the black wire (gnd) and brown/yellow (sensor) wire. Start engine and turn off, but leave in run. You should show .5 volts at idle, and it should slowly rise to almost 5 volts at full throttle (motor off). If it jumps around, sticks on one voltage, etc, it is probably bad. A tip on testing- I stuck sewing needles into the back side of the sensor plug into where the wire is crimped to the pin. Then connect the gator clips to that. Mine seemed to test good. Looks like a new pedal sensor is about $75.

The throttle sensor can be checked the same way. You just have to figure out what wire is the ground and what is the sensor wire. I havnt done that yet. One could say if the pedal sensor checked good, then the problem must be the throttle position sensor. Except its around $275 for a cheap reman or up to $900 for OEM. So that part is on hold. The plug connection is difficult to access. So Ill have to wait for further motivation to check it.

Anyone else have any fixes or success for dash lights, P2138 and limp mode?

 

Do what you did to test the pedal sensor. Except this time remove the large air intake hose to get eyes on the throttle body butterfly valve. If you haven't cleaned it, or cleaned it recently, see if it is moving.
When you clean it, DO NOT spray it with cleaner. Spray a rag and apply the cleaner, and use another rag to clean/dry it. With another person with their foot on the gas peddle the butterfly valve should open if you do what you outline above. Do not move the butterfly valve by hand. Use a toothbrush or other soft bristle brush to clean the butterfly valve. Do not use metal. Make sure to clean everything dry. If you leave it wet/moist this will just settle at the lowest point, and dry causing sticking again, and clog your Throttle Body.
Did you recently move the butterfly valve by hand? I wouldn't recommend ever forcing to move, but if you are forced to do this. Disconnect the wire harness first, and move it very slowly, and close it very slowly. You can feel the motor resistance, you don't want to destroy this connection by forcing it if it binds, or moving it to fast.

 

Royalbiggster- So I guess if I take the intake hose off of the throttle body I could visually look at the butterfly valve opening and closing if I have someone working the pedal. I would just have to verify that they are moving the pedal smoothly. That may be easier than removing the boot on the wire connector and working on the back side of the part to find the correct wires to test. The other problem is this is an intermittent issue. But Ill give this a try and see what I get.