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Great write-up. Tore it all down and scouted the problem, ordered the part and went to install it... Well it rained before the part came and I found a bigger issue and likely cause - water all over the actuator and inside the plug, on the wires... Dried everything out and plugged in the new actuator - nothing... Seems I have an electrical short somewhere now and since the rest of the locks work fine I don't suspect a fuse... :(
 
OK - Here is my experience. 2004 Honda EX-L Pilot

I just did both of the passenger side door actuators (front and back). There is NO difference between the front and the back actuators. I ordered two of the exact same ones (Both for passenger side)

I didn't have any problems except the three screws that hold the latch in. Just like most, I could not get them out. I tried heating them, WD-40, etc. Finally I went to Sears and got a manual impact wrench ($22) and it worked like a charm. I did not even have to hit it with a hammer. I simply used it like a screwdriver and they all came right out.

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=90281&thumb=1

The first door (front) took me almost two hours. I took my time and made sure I was gentle with all the clips. The back door took about 30 mins.

I ordered cheep actuators off ebay for $8 each. I know some of the members recommend using OEM Honda ones because they say they last longer. The cheapest real Honda ones I could find were about $50 each. Now that I have done it, I could swap them out in about 30 mins, so for me it is worth saving the money. I could swap them out once a year and it would still be worth it to me. I will post again if they go out in the near future, but it wouldn't surprise me if they last several years.

VV
 

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OK - Here is my experience. 2004 Honda EX-L Pilot

I just did both of the passenger side door actuators (front and back). There is NO difference between the front and the back actuators. I ordered two of the exact same ones (Both for passenger side)

I didn't have any problems except the three screws that hold the latch in. Just like most, I could not get them out. I tried heating them, WD-40, etc. Finally I went to Sears and got a manual impact wrench ($22) and it worked like a charm. I did not even have to hit it with a hammer. I simply used it like a screwdriver and they all came right out.

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=90281&thumb=1

The first door (front) took me almost two hours. I took my time and made sure I was gentle with all the clips. The back door took about 30 mins.

I ordered cheep actuators off ebay for $8 each. I know some of the members recommend using OEM Honda ones because they say they last longer. The cheapest real Honda ones I could find were about $50 each. Now that I have done it, I could swap them out in about 30 mins, so for me it is worth saving the money. I could swap them out once a year and it would still be worth it to me. I will post again if they go out in the near future, but it wouldn't surprise me if they last several years.

VV
Three months later and they are still working like new!
 
Please help with this actuator replacement on our 2007 pilot ex-l, this is our only car,and we have a 10 month old.

We cant get the door lock assembly out.

The only thing stopping the repair are these metal bars- one attached to the door handle, the other to door lock.
This is the driver front door on Pilot 2007 Exl.


Can someone explain how to get this assembly out of the door? Please.




 

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Hey check your original post, the beginning of this thread - the OP mentions the small plastic locking clips....they are standard on all vehicles. I answered on your first thread....they are real tough to un-snap at times, especially with not a lot of room in there for your hands....in your left pic there is a square white plastic clip snapped down on to the rod at the top connection. You need to push back against it and un-snap it off the rod....then the rod will extract from the connection. Easy peasy, once you have done this a few times like riding a bike. I have had some real luck to replace 6 window motors on my daughter's friend Jeep Liberty and a Jeep Grand Cherokee this past summer....hated those clips, some were easy to un-snap and others downright hard.
 
I've replaced the tailgate actuator and I'm getting ready to do the right rear door. This may or may not be helpful for the 3 screws that hold the latch in: Using a large screwdriver with a flat nose, take a hammer and pound it pretty good a few times on the end of the screwdriver. The vibration seems to provide enough loosening that you can then use a screwdriver with a wrench on handle to get them started. Push in on screwdriver when turning.
 
The right screwdriver for the pain in the neck screws is a JIS #3. It's thing. I bought a "Bessel (Vessel) Ball Grip Difference and Screwdrivers Set No.220w-3" on amazon for about $13. Inserted the bit into my cordless driver and the screws came out cleanly with no stripping.
Big thanks to the OP!
 
this is a bit of a necropost but I thought I'd add a couple items to the original post. The original post definitely helped a few weekends ago to replace an actuator on my 2003 Pilot, but he left out a couple items.

1. There's a screw at the center of the arm rest on the bottom. It is angled up and you can't see it unless you're looking for it. You need to remove that to get the door panel off.
2. The rail that the window slides on doesn't need to be removed to get the lock mechanism out. It's a bit tricky getting the mechanism past the rail, but it's possible. You do need to remove the screw and the standoff at the bottom of the rail. Make sure the window is up before you start.
3. the lock mechanism is connected to the exterior door handle by a rod that is connected at the top of the mechanism. Unless you are looking for it, you can't see it. Disconnect the rod from the exterior handle. After you remove the 3 screws that hold the lock mechanism to the door, inside the door pull down on the exterior handle mechanism and hold it down. It is spring loaded and will move down about 1.5". This makes it much easier to access what you need to disconnect the lock mechanism. the rod is held to the exterior handle by a white locking clip similar to the others that you disconnect during disassembly. the clip swings up, and the rod slides towards the back edge of the door.
 
I just replaced the Right/Rear actuator on my 2003 Pilot, which has 172,000 miles on the clock.
<...>
Finally, when I separated the actuator from the latch, it came apart in my hands. The hard part of putting it back together is figuring out how the child safety lock (that can normally be accessed on the side of the door) works, and how to install it. Here's a shot from the backside, where you can see the oval feature at the bottom the white plastic locking tab engaging the chromate finished lock mechanism. This oval part needs to be inserted into the hole at the bottom of the slot and then the hook at the bottom left of the photo needs to be inserted into the latch mechanism as you put everything back together. It's hard to show in photos, but you can test it out of the car and verify it works before you re-install the latch and actuator in the door.

Image


Hopefully this helps some of you knock this job out.

Kit
San Diego, CA
Kit, God Bless You for this photo. I found myself in the same predicament, once it was disassembled in my hand, try as I might I could not rearrange correctly. I KNEW I wasn't there yet. This got me there.

THANKS!!
 
this is a bit of a necropost but I thought I'd add a couple items to the original post. The original post definitely helped a few weekends ago to replace an actuator on my 2003 Pilot, but he left out a couple items.

1. There's a screw at the center of the arm rest on the bottom. It is angled up and you can't see it unless you're looking for it. You need to remove that to get the door panel off.
2. The rail that the window slides on doesn't need to be removed to get the lock mechanism out. It's a bit tricky getting the mechanism past the rail, but it's possible. You do need to remove the screw and the standoff at the bottom of the rail. Make sure the window is up before you start.
3. the lock mechanism is connected to the exterior door handle by a rod that is connected at the top of the mechanism. Unless you are looking for it, you can't see it. Disconnect the rod from the exterior handle. After you remove the 3 screws that hold the lock mechanism to the door, inside the door pull down on the exterior handle mechanism and hold it down. It is spring loaded and will move down about 1.5". This makes it much easier to access what you need to disconnect the lock mechanism door lock actuator honda crv 2007. the rod is held to the exterior handle by a white locking clip similar to the others that you disconnect during disassembly. the clip swings up, and the rod slides towards the back edge of the door.
Hello. I have just replaced the passenger side lock, it would lock then unlock automatically. It was a defective lock. Now the driver's side rear lock has a problem and won't lock. I have one on order to replace. You can not lock these doors manually it is all electronic. It is not an easy job replacing these locks and the dealer wants $250 for the part and installation. I have 2 other locks that will probably go next. I had a 2002 Honda Accord previous with no problems locking. There is a design flaw with these locks. Others will have the same problem, just a matter of time! When you hit the remote twice the car horn will sound, giving you a false sense of security. Guess what the "car is not locked" on the problem door, you can open it and the alarm will not sound. Honda will fight a recall forever, Can you imagine what it would cost a recall, all 4 door locks on every O7 CRV and up?
 
You can not lock these doors manually it is all electronic.
Something's not right. The 1st generation Pilot's locks do also operate manually. What model year Pilot do you have?
 
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