Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

"B" Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On Bank 1

2 reading
59K views 45 replies 13 participants last post by  tcser777  
#1 ·
This
Read a code from my 2016 Honda Pilot with 50k miles.
P2652"B" Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On Bank 1

Were is the sensor that I need to replace? or rocker arm actuator located?

Background:
A check engine warning flashed and said Emissions error. I read this error happens when your gas cap is loose on other cars.
I stuck my finger through the two gas flaps and immediately the emissions error and check engine light went away.
A few hours later I picked up a BluDriver bluetooth OBD2 sensor and read the P2652 code.
 
#3 ·
Well, I've decided that I'm going to replace both oil pressure switches and not wait until the second one goes bad.
I believe I've found the non-faulty pilot pressure switch located in the front left of the engine.
According to my research, "bank 1" may mean cylinder 1, so maybe the faulty oil pressure switch is near cylinder 1?
 
#6 ·
Well dealer #1 where I purchased the car claims not covered under powertrain warranty.
Honda of USA just responded and stated that it would have been covered under emissions which is 50k (mine is 54k miles) NOT powertrain.

Halariously enough, she said the Orings are covered up to 60k miles...:LOL:
 
#12 ·
Attached is a document titled "Federal and California Emissions Warranties Parts List."

If you live in any of these states...
California, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York,
Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington
...then the Rocker Arm Control Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor is covered for 3 years / 50,000 miles under federal law.

I would press a dealer about this and maybe even Honda if you're within or close to the age/mileage allowance.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
I should mention that once I replaced the one oil pressure switch that had the issue (BlueDriver reported), my '16 Pilot drives like a dream!
The hesitation that was slowly coming back since I did the infamous tranny flush and reprogram is now completely gone again.
One has to wonder how long this oil pressure switch has been broken.
 
#20 ·
Ughhh, while replacing "rocker arm oil pressure switch B" which cleared the engine code, I found that "rocker arm oil pressure switch A" has a small oil leak.
Probably just o-ring, but for $35 I may just replace the o-ring and switch.
Apparently, this is a known problem with Honda Pilots.
I bet some of you have the same leak and just never noticed.
I'll add some pics for those that want to check their pilots.
 
#28 ·
This is just a temporary picture. But the green connectors are the oil pressure switch. This picture is the right side of the engine.
I'll post a small how-to video this upcoming sunday.
All you need is the oil pressure switch, the o-ring, and a tool called a oil pressure switch socket that you can pick up from the local auto parts store.
 

Attachments

#29 ·
Is it 2WD or 4WD? They have different engines, The 2WD has VCM, I have the 2WD. My car would light up the error code for VSA and the engine light and go into limp mode.
Change the oil regularly and take off the Vtec unit and see if the screen is clogged, this can cause the code you mentioned. I thought i needed parts but taking the VTEC unit apart and cleaning it out and taking out the solenoid and reassembling it solved my problem.
 
#30 ·
Is it 2WD or 4WD? They have different engines, The 2WD has VCM, I have the 2WD. My car would light up the error code for VSA and the engine light and go into limp mode.
Change the oil regularly and take off the Vtec unit and see if the screen is clogged, this can cause the code you mentioned. I thought i needed parts but taking the VTEC unit apart and cleaning it out and taking out the solenoid and reassembling it solved my problem.
 
#34 ·
The original post was regarding a 3rd generation Pilot. The one reply about different engines doesn't have a year listed in his post or in his signature, so I thought he was talking about a 3rd generation Pilot.

Didn't know that the 1st gen Pilots did have different running conditions set up for 2wd or 4wd. Were they the same engines but with different controls such as for the VCM? Or if you had to replace an engine in a 1st gen 2wd, did you have to find an engine from a 2wd, or could a 4wd engine be used and just switch over the specific parts for the VCM?
 
#36 ·
Code P2652 is still being thrown, so I Took it to the dealer.
They replaced the whole rear spool valve assembly, which is the part that the oil pressure sensors sits on.
They claim its covered under Emissions warranty.
I looked up the part and it was $600 retail, but they didn't charge me anything.
The SUV has 59k miles and the emissions warranty goes to supposedly 70k miles.
So I paid $0.
Got the car back, hooked up my BlueDriver code reader, drove it for a bit and no codes thrown.
I verified they actually replaced the part, because the old one was coated with thick oil.
I suspect it had an oil leak.
 

Attachments

#41 ·
Since both P2651 and P2652 are Oil Pressure Sensor Switch trouble codes located on Bank 1, driver side head. It’d be Part# 37240-R70-A04 .
If the oil changes have been on time, oil level isn’t low or no mice chewing on the wire harness to the switch, it’s a good chance the switch is bad.
 
#42 ·
Thanks for posting and replying recently. I had the same issue happen in my 2019 Pilot Touring AWD. P2652: "oil pressure switch B fail need replace oil pressure switch B" from Honda dealer tech. They're quoting ~$400 to fix it so I just ordered these parts (switch and o-ring) online for $30 with hopes to attempt and fix myself.

Had the same issue as the earlier commenter. Emissions, Transmission and Blind Spot lights all came on at the same time. Couldn't accelerate anymore and after restarting the car it seemed to not get out of first gear.
 
#46 ·
I had the exact same P2652 B Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck on Bank 1 code. Rough idling. Emissions system failure alarm. Saw a video where he tested the sensor. In the video, his sensor was going wacko from 2-15 volts…all over the place. I tested my sensor with the engine running and it was solid at 14v. I found this other video that said he just blew out the oil pressure sensor. I noticed when I unplugged it, some debris came out. The fact that it was noticeable was a little surprising. I blew compressed gas on it and plugged it back in. No problems. No codes, no rough idling. I NEVER would’ve thought to test the oil pressure sensor….so thanks to this forum! I’ll update if it happens again with additional info.