So what brand engine oil (0w-20) does everyone use? I’m looking to do it myself, thanks.
What brand 0w-20 oil?
Rtraveler1
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🤮 I did not need to see that.
Just spoiled my cocktail hour... 
My eyes!! My eyes!!
Cruising Costco this morning, a six-quart case of M1 is on sale for $30.
Since there no such thing as a good reason anymore... I had a very bad experience with Pennzoil in the late 1960's and early 1970's. They had bribed their way into US Porsche dealers to get the business. But, for some of the air-cooled four-cylinder cars (356 and 912) Pennzoil had a nasty habit of forming a thick gray paste in the bottom of the sump, particularly in colder weather or when the oil wasn't brought to temperature regularly. More than a few of those engines were damaged. I ran Valvoline in mine and had no issues. Bottom line though is that I swore then that I'd never put Pennzoil in anything on purpose, not even a lawnmower. I'm sure they've figured out the problem by now, but with so many other great oil brands available, it remains Very Unlikely that Pennzoil will ever make its way into my workbay.
My eyes!! My eyes!!Cruising Costco this morning, a six-quart case of M1 is on sale for $30.
Since there no such thing as a good reason anymore... I had a very bad experience with Pennzoil in the late 1960's and early 1970's. They had bribed their way into US Porsche dealers to get the business. But, for some of the air-cooled four-cylinder cars (356 and 912) Pennzoil had a nasty habit of forming a thick gray paste in the bottom of the sump, particularly in colder weather or when the oil wasn't brought to temperature regularly. More than a few of those engines were damaged. I ran Valvoline in mine and had no issues. Bottom line though is that I swore then that I'd never put Pennzoil in anything on purpose, not even a lawnmower. I'm sure they've figured out the problem by now, but with so many other great oil brands available, it remains Very Unlikely that Pennzoil will ever make its way into my workbay.
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it was because the women then started a fight over who got to go home with me.. cause i'm effin metal
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I'm sorry but I have seen zero evidence that the J35 DI engine has rampant carbon buildup problems. One picture that looks "pretty good" compared to what I've seen on GM and German Car forums does not tell me this is something we need to address universally.
My recommendation remains the same as it always has - excellent gas, oil and filter. Disable VCM. Timing belt and accessories on time and run it until it throws a code. Generally, for a J series, those codes are very infrequent.
My recommendation remains the same as it always has - excellent gas, oil and filter. Disable VCM. Timing belt and accessories on time and run it until it throws a code. Generally, for a J series, those codes are very infrequent.
Second Gen Pilots were specified to use 0w-20 oil, so I suspect that a lot of 2nd gen owners use the recommended oil.
Compared to previous non-direct injection J35 engines where the fuel is sprayed on the back of the valves, it's a big problem to me. I don't like it.
Quite simply, the OP asked what brand of 0w20 oil to use. Obviously there is a wide range of opinions. I want to use oil that is not going to cause sludge, or be more likely to burn or evaporate. IMO, semi blends are terrible. Cheap store brand oil may be adequate, but not the quality of most name brands (see YouTube project farm) and higher priced Extended Performance oil has been reported by some to have a problem with thermal breakdown.
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Ok, so we agree it is more of a problem on 3rd gens and 2nd gens. But if it still isn't enough of a problem to cause codes or poor performance, is it really a problem at all? I'm not a big fan of fixing things that are not and will not be problematic.
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I think 1st gens spec'd 5W20, so if that's what Bill has he may not have realized everything '09+ specs 0W20.
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Thank you for explaining it to me .. make sense to me now ..
I have mine done at Honda Dealership and they tell me they only use Honda grade filter and oil so I will have to trust them on this one.
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Wel since I got my pilot at 93k I have been using Royal Purple hmx 5w-20. When I do my oil changes at 5-6k and they rate it at 12k oil change intervals. I perform a flush with liqui moly engine flush. Sometimes I don't even know if my engine is on it's so quite.
I don't trust dealerships, but some seem to be better than others. I've got nothing negative to say about the Honda oil filter. The Honeywell made filter is good. But what I would ask the service dept on my next oil change is... "Are you using full synthetic oil in my vehicle?" Their bulk oil is usually semi-blend.
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Thank for the head up .. I will ask them next time I go get it changed or maybe I will just start changing it myself but again sometime I need to borrow their ears you know and they don't charge me for using their ear because I am a loyal customer to go there regularly since 1993.
I think I might add "reduces intake oil deposits" to my list of reasons to disable VCM and to use a good full-synthetic oil. Less ring coking, less blowby, lower crankcase pressures and therefore less carryover to the intake.
A previous car ended up needing head gaskets at about 120k, in that case due to coolant chemistry. Heads came off, and benefits of a life of good synthetic oil were instantly apparent. First, the cams and valve gear were pristine. Wipe a part clean and there were absolutely no deposits, not even the yellow film that normally gathers in oil-wetted galleys and cam boxes. When the heads came off, the original hone marks in the bores were still perfect, with no wear ridge at all at the top of the bore. Very light carbon on the piston tops and a thin beige in the combustion chambers. Valves looked great, with intakes clean and exhausts with the beige color but no accumulated deposits. I put new stem seals in because the old ones came out for the valve inspection. Otherwise it went back together with only new gaskets; no other parts needed replacement. I've had more than a few engines and gearboxes out for major work over the decades, many of them enjoying less than diligent care in their prior lives. The pristine condition of my head-gasket project engine confirmed that the small extra cost pays off later.
I sold that truck with almost 300k on it to an employee who's wife just had their second child. It looked and drove pretty much as new. Most folks get new cars long before 100k, and most are more than used up by 250k. With proper care and some luck to keep them out of the body shops, most good cars will easily survive that long. For sure the proactive care and maintenance is a small fraction of the costs of a new replacement vehicle.
A previous car ended up needing head gaskets at about 120k, in that case due to coolant chemistry. Heads came off, and benefits of a life of good synthetic oil were instantly apparent. First, the cams and valve gear were pristine. Wipe a part clean and there were absolutely no deposits, not even the yellow film that normally gathers in oil-wetted galleys and cam boxes. When the heads came off, the original hone marks in the bores were still perfect, with no wear ridge at all at the top of the bore. Very light carbon on the piston tops and a thin beige in the combustion chambers. Valves looked great, with intakes clean and exhausts with the beige color but no accumulated deposits. I put new stem seals in because the old ones came out for the valve inspection. Otherwise it went back together with only new gaskets; no other parts needed replacement. I've had more than a few engines and gearboxes out for major work over the decades, many of them enjoying less than diligent care in their prior lives. The pristine condition of my head-gasket project engine confirmed that the small extra cost pays off later.
I sold that truck with almost 300k on it to an employee who's wife just had their second child. It looked and drove pretty much as new. Most folks get new cars long before 100k, and most are more than used up by 250k. With proper care and some luck to keep them out of the body shops, most good cars will easily survive that long. For sure the proactive care and maintenance is a small fraction of the costs of a new replacement vehicle.
Exactly what I am using for my next change.
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