According to my research, both the tweeter, and the door "woofer" are 4ohm, and running in parallel for a 2ohm load out of the factory deck. Based upon your issue, I'm thinking your issue might be related to that 2ohm load, and your JVC Deck only supporting 4ohm loads.

Personally I'm about to be installing some Infinity 6530cx, where I'll be simply disconnecting the factory tweeters in the dash, then mounting the aftermarket ones in the sail panels.

 

Hmm, I am reading 6 ohm at the radio. So if the speakers are indeed 4 ohm and they are in parallel then the wire would add 4 ohm. Granted, those are tiny cables but I am still a bit surprised. Where did you get that information?

As for running them in parallel, does that mean there is no crossover anywhere? Your new speakers have a crossover just like the Sound Ordnance P-52CB I am considering. Where are you going to install the crossover? Or are you saying you don't bother with the crossover and just replace the tweeters?

 

The speakers are 4ohm, and the tweeters are also 4 ohm, which in parallel should make a 2ohm load (not counting wire resistance). In regards to the factory tweeters, I presume they have a high-pass filter (EDIT: Yep, there is a Cap). As for where I've seen this information? If you search this site, there are a couple threads that show the back of the factory tweeters, or you could take the a minute to pop them out on your own vehicle to see for yourself.

In regards to the Infinity Reference 6530cx's setup, I plan on mounting the crossover in the door, as I don't want to deal with running a wire through the door jamb, and the sail panels should provide better imaging than the factory locations (which I'll disconnect the plug on, so they aren't being used at all).

 

I did some more googling. It looks like most people put the crossover in the door. I am just a bit 'worried' that the cabling through the door might be a real pain. Maybe I should follow what Crutchfield is saying and put it under the seat instead. In any case, I do have some more questions.

• There are 3 wires going to the stock tweeter. Why are there three wires/terminals?
• Into which two or the 3 wires do I have to tap into that go to the crossover?
• What kind of gauge wire do you use? I am mostly asking because of the probably very limited space routing them through the door. It seems like 16 AWG might be sufficient, especially since the run is probably around 10 feet for the tweeter and maybe 6 feet for the front speakers.

 

The tweeters only have two wires from what I can see. Check out this guide from Crutchfield

 

So I am trying to wire up my new tweeters. However, I have a heck of a time routing the additional cable for the crossover from the twitter down to the floor (or in the area of the door). The Crutchfield instructions don't say anything about that. I google this forum but couldn't really find anything. The stock wiring seem to go down toward the door but it's hard to see even looking from outside the windshield with a flashlight. I tried many times incl. other possible paths but I just can't get it down. Any input is appreciated.

Btw, I am going to place the crossover under the seat. That's what Crutchfield suggested as they crossover might raddle when placed in the doors. I am sure they could be affixed securely but under the seat they are more easily accessible if I ever have the need (adjusting dB, replacing them if they break, etc)

 

4 + 4 Ohm parallel giving 2 Ohm is only true for identical voice coils. If you are combining different types of speakers, things change.
The resistance you are reading is DC resistance, essentially 0 frequency. Audio signal is AC current and speaker impendance depends on its frequency. With a proper crossover in place, you might have a subwoofer for the lows, then a mid range, then a tweeter - each might be '4 Ohm nominal' but as at any given frequency only one speaker is really sounding, the amp will see a 4Ohm load. If you install 2 or 3-way speakers in your doors, they should have a crossover built-in, presenting the amp with a more or less uniform load over their entire frequency range.

At least in '13 Pilot, tweeters are simply wired parallel to fronts, and tweeters have a cap in them to cut lower frequencies. The woofer impendance rises at higher frequency due to inductance, so by the time it gets to frequencies where tweeter kicks in, it is more like 20 Ohm rather than 4.

Now where exactly are they wired? The wires from your head unit connector are disappearing into those thick harnesses that run deep inside your dashboard. The wires likely branch off to tweeters in places totally inaccessible without disassembling the entire dashboard, before those harnesses continue towards the doors - where part of the harness along with speaker wires branches off to go into the car door.

If you want to use that Sound Ordnance kit, I'd say your options are:
1. Everything in-door. You mount the crossover inside the door close to the woofer. Either hack off the factrory speaker connector or use one of thos Metra speaker 2-wire harnesses to connect to crossover input. Then a short bit of wire from x-over to woofer and run a longer bit of wire from x-over to the tweeter mounted in the sail panel. Be sure to disconnect the dash tweeters.
2. In-dash tweeters. Open up the harness just before it goes into that rubber channel leading the door. Identify which two wires are for the speaker. Cut those two wires and add extensions to them. Find a place to mount the x-overs inside the dash, and run new wire from them to dash tweeter locations.

 

@scorrpio very smart!! It makes completely sense, i.e. if the woofer is ~4 Ohm until frequency x and above that it's a big impedance and the tweeter is a big impedance below frequency x and ~4 Ohm above that then it still seems like a 4 Ohm impedance to the amp. There will be some overlap but the power to that overlap probably can be handled by the amp. That makes a lot of sense. For the same reason you want to disconnect the stock tweeter if you install new tweeters in another place (though the power to the tweeters is probably kind of low). Very good point!!

As for installing the new tweeters, I want them in the original position despite the fact that many people on this forum say it's a bad position. Hence, I am going with your 2. scenario. You said "open up the harness just before it goes into that rubber channel..."? I assume at that point there are still just two conductors that serve both the tweeter and woofer. Only later on there is a Y-connection that splits one pair to the tweeter and one pair to the door. However, the crossover needs to be placed AFTER the Y-connection. Hence, I don't quite understand how this should work. Any clarification is appreciated.

 

What I am saying is that the 'factory Y points' where wires going to the tweeters branch off the wires going to the woofers, are not likely to be accessible. And if you do find them, you would have to cut into the main harness that is incased in rigid loom, taped over and got a gazillion of wires you don't want to accidentally damage. So you just forget that branch exists. You unplug the connectors from factory tweeters (btw, 3rd wire is most likely a shield),and zip-tie those connectors to something so they don't rattle. Think of it as having a pair of regular wires running from the head unit to the door speaker. Now you need to find a good spot to cut into those wires. A spot that is more or less easy to work in, that has room to mount those crossovers, and from where you can run wires to the tweeter location without much issue.

One such spot is under the dashboard just before those wires go into the door. (one on each side)

Another such spot is behind the head unit, practically at the connector.

Yet another spot is in the door itself, but only if you want to mount the tweeter in the door as well.

 

Scorrpio is on point with his advise. I suspect the factory "Y" point is right off the plug to the deck, but you'd have to cut and tap in to both speakers at that location (which is doable). Also the "woofer" wiring in the doors doesn't really leave you any "slack" if you were to hack off the connector. Also trying to get wire through the door jambs is a PITA, not to mention becomes a problem if that door ever needs to come off.

Soo, just do what I'm doing... mount the crossover's (I'll be using Velcro) to the inside of the door panel in this location:

As for tweeter location, I'm using the Sail Panels:

Then pick yourself up a Speaker Wiring Harness Connector, to adapt the factory Honda plug into something useable (I soldered my ends directly to the speaker wire, and heatshrunk), and then put Fork Spade Connectors on the end going to my crossover.

Here is the entire wiring setup that is essentially "plug and play":

Here is after wrapping the wires from/to the woofer in Tesa Tape:

Then like scorrpio mentioned, I'm simply disconnecting the factory tweeters, and securing the resulting connector (likely with a zip-tie), somewhere.

If you want to see more about my install, the inside of the doors, etc, check out my thread here.

Good luck!

 

Thanks you both for the responses. I appreciate it. I did the right tweeter yesterday but still have to do the left one. I need to figure out how to take off the door panels because the release for the hood and gas tank is there.

Anyways, I did put the crossover under the seat behind the DVD player. It is easily accessible there if necessary. The routing to the dash was the hardest part but Crutchfield proposed to remove the side cover of the dash (this guys are great!!!). See the picture below. I then used some grounding wire (metal coat hanger or similar works, too) to go up the round hole (behind the metal) to the tweeter. Then a fished down the wire and then from there I fished it down to the next hole where you can see the back and red wire coming out in the picture.

Crutchfield also included a metal bracket to mount the tweeter to the cover but I found it difficult to work with to hold the speaker well in place (I probably could have put something between the metal and speaker). I ended up using a zip tie. I ran out of the zip tie mountings where the zip tie runs over the screw so I had to use the ones in the picture but they should work, too.

 

Thanks you both for the responses. I appreciate it. I did the right tweeter yesterday but still have to do the left one. I need to figure out how to take off the door panels because the release for the hood and gas tank is there.

This is a great video on how to remove the door panels:

Only thing I'd recommend differently than shown in the video is to do the door lock handle first (which is how Honda's SM say's to do it), that way if the screw falls out, it doesn't land in the area where the power window switches used to be (or use the paper towel to fill in the void like recommended).

Here is from the 06-08 Service Manual (Section 20-6, P 1521/2569)

 

Well, I used the wrong word. With door panel I didn't actually mean the door panel... That one is pretty easy to take off (most things are easy if you know how to do it...). I meant the panels on the car frame, i.e. the 'kick plate panel' where the gas tank cover release is and the other panel where the hood release is. I will google it. I am sure there is some video about that.

 

Here you go. Section 20-65 (P 1580/2569) of the Service Manual (Sticked at the top of this section).

 

Great! Thank you!