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And, While the frame tab can and does bend some, How is this really a problem again? What is it affecting on the vehicle? How it drives? How it handles? How it stops? While it's part of the 'structure' of the vehicle- I don't see this as being a 'structural defect'
When I looked at those little tabs/points, the pseudo Civil engineer in me says to me that if I put all the weight right on the end of that little point- it may give way/bend some. While mine aren't bent because I don't use that point- your posts and pictures have proven that I was right.
Your right, it doesn't affect the vehicle. But in the OP's defense, Honda could up the gauge in the metal to solve the problem. People are going to put a jack on this eventually.
 
And, While the frame tab can and does bend some, How is this really a problem again? What is it affecting on the vehicle? How it drives? How it handles? How it stops? While it's part of the 'structure' of the vehicle- I don't see this as being a 'structural defect'
When I looked at those little tabs/points, the pseudo Civil engineer in me says to me that if I put all the weight right on the end of that little point- it may give way/bend some. While mine aren't bent because I don't use that point- your posts and pictures have proven that I was right.
The actual Civil Engineer in me (undergrad focused on structural) told me that "jacking" point was used as a tie down during shipping and is not sufficient for me to put a floor jack on. So my 2ng gen has never been lifted by the same tab it has on the crossmember, have used more suitable locations or used my Rennstand to jack up each side individually. Sure, it would be more convenient to get the whole thing in the air in one shot but most vehicles end up needing this in the rear so it's no surprise.
 
Heads up... while using the rear jacking point (below differential) to jack up my 2019 Pilot Elite, the jacking point failed, and dropped the car. Needless to say, this is dangerous! I can't tell if the jacking point metal itself tore/collapsed, or the weld failed. I am going to notify Honda, since this is a serious safety issue, and I am hoping they will fix it (out of warranty). View attachment 137006
Not saying you didn't do this, but blocking the wheels on the other end of the vehicle keeps the car from moving and falling off the jack when the weld or metal folds/fails..
 
Most floor jacks that I have seen will exert lot of lateral force when extending and from looking at that rear jack point, it wouldn't be able to stand up to much lateral force and would twist or bend easily especially if the front wheels are chocked when lifting.
If the jack has functioning wheels that rotate easily under load and is on level fairly smooth hard ground and the car isn't allowed to move either using wheel chocks, parking brake, Park pinion, etc.,the jack should move easily to reduce any lateral forces. I also use what looks like a giant hard rubber puck on the jack to distribute the load on the lift point. Never had a problem using the front or rear lifting points. The steel used for the lift points have more than enough compression strength to lift the Pilot. However, large lateral forces trying to bend and fold the metal or break the weld can't be engineered out if the force vector moves off vertical. I always watch all the jack wheels as I raise the car to make sure they're free and turning.
 
Heads up... while using the rear jacking point (below differential) to jack up my 2019 Pilot Elite, the jacking point failed, and dropped the car. Needless to say, this is dangerous! I can't tell if the jacking point metal itself tore/collapsed, or the weld failed. I am going to notify Honda, since this is a serious safety issue, and I am hoping they will fix it (out of warranty). View attachment 137006
My 2007 rear jacking point calapsed and bent to one side and is now useless. I always felt weird using it in the first place because it always dreamed weak, don't use it unless your on totally level ground as I think that's what caused mine to bend.
 
I think this "jacking point" is interesting because it sure doesn't seem to be designed for any fore/aft loads in compression (as it would experience as a jack point). It does seem like it'd be effective under tension, such as when used to tie the car down. I have used it once as a jack point, but I have a rubber insert for my floor jack with a molded slot intended to "cradle" weld points and such...so I think it better supported this "jacking point".

Having said that, and I'm not minimizing the obvious danger to the user during the collapse of this tab...I think it's much safer having been collapsed. Once it's collapsed, nothing else can happen to it and I do think the subframe structure that is there is very likely sufficient to support the rear of the car.

I considered actually just cutting that tab off of our Pilot. I think I'd rather use that jack point without that tab, for this very reason. For those whose tab has already collapsed, besides being justifiably upset at Honda for advertising this as a valid jack point, I think I'd probably continue to use that area as a jacking point, confident in the notion that the weak link is now taken out of play.
 
I think this "jacking point" is interesting because it sure doesn't seem to be designed for any fore/aft loads in compression (as it would experience as a jack point). It does seem like it'd be effective under tension, such as when used to tie the car down. I have used it once as a jack point, but I have a rubber insert for my floor jack with a molded slot intended to "cradle" weld points and such...so I think it better supported this "jacking point".

Having said that, and I'm not minimizing the obvious danger to the user during the collapse of this tab...I think it's much safer having been collapsed. Once it's collapsed, nothing else can happen to it and I do think the subframe structure that is there is very likely sufficient to support the rear of the car.

I considered actually just cutting that tab off of our Pilot. I think I'd rather use that jack point without that tab, for this very reason. For those whose tab has already collapsed, besides being justifiably upset at Honda for advertising this as a valid jack point, I think I'd probably continue to use that area as a jacking point, confident in the notion that the weak link is now taken out of play.
I think the side load comes from either the car moving or the jack not free to move to relieve any side loads. Blocking the wheels on the other end of the car and making sure the wheels on the jack are free to roll and it's on a smooth level surface, make lifting at those jacking point uneventful. Here's an example.
 
I think the side load comes from either the car moving or the jack not free to move to relieve any side loads. Blocking the wheels on the other end of the car and making sure the wheels on the jack are free to roll and it's on a smooth level surface, make lifting at those jacking point uneventful. Here's an example.
Yes, absolutely -- no argument at all. I agree completely that using wheel chocks or other mitigations to prevent vehicle movement should avoid failure. That said, it still surprises me that they would design a jacking point (a metal tab, really) with such a low tolerance for conditions other than very close to perfect. Simply triangulating that tab would have added significant strength to that point.
 
Yes, absolutely -- no argument at all. I agree completely that using wheel chocks or other mitigations to prevent vehicle movement should avoid failure. That said, it still surprises me that they would design a jacking point (a metal tab, really) with such a low tolerance for conditions other than very close to perfect. Simply triangulating that tab would have added significant strength to that point.
I think it's somewhere between needing conditions very close to perfect and let's sue the bastards for an unsafe design. Lifting cars with consumer jacks is akin to climbing consumer ladders. There's always opportunity for bodily harm that more and thicker metal and cost could help mitigate. But you just can't engineer and fabricate out user error at any price.
 
I used that jacking point today to change wheels for winter. I like the puck idea, but didn’t want to wait to buy one, and was not worried if it did bend. Like others have said, it would be no loss to me if it bent.
I jacked up the rear and that tab held up fine. Flat floor, took my time, etc.
I also jacked up the front on the other jacking point. Photo attached is from the 2016 Pilot Service Manual
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Be safe when attempting this. Used parking break, wheel chocks, and used jack stands at the side jack points. There’s a good you tube vid I liked:
 
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