[ccheuser]

Oh boy, I literally just changed the PCV valve on my '16 Pilot last weekend with 70,000 miles on it. While the old PCV seemed "okay", the new one I installed had a better sounding rattle to it even after I cleaned the old one with carb cleaner. It bothered me that this valve is horizontal when installed and some oil will just sit in/on the valve and not completely drain off. The pic below is an example of what I'm talking about. That one is from my CRV after just 20,000 miles. It is the same style valve as what Honda puts in the Pilot and I did not like all the oil scum sticking to that valve when I removed it to inspect. Plus, I ran across other reviews where people reported that this styled PCV valve body broke off in Pilots like what happened to the OP. So right or wrong, I decided to go ahead and replace my valve before it got too old and brittle. This post by ccheuser confirms in my mind that I did the right thing.

View attachment 150641

They say 30k to 70k where 50k is when you should do it. I don't think mine was ever changed since it was the old design. On my list for every 30k since the cost is less than $20

 

[ccheuser]

This is why on time oil changes with a quality oil is important. Full synthetic oil is less likely to bake on like thus.
I'm still not convinced that the VCM shutting down 3 cylinders isn't causing oil to be blown into places it shouldn't.

I agree quality oil is critical. Like Chryslers Hemi shutting down 4 cylinders caused a ton of problems for them. My Honda no longer does that have the new S-VCM installed.

 

[ccheuser]

Is this actually a valve (since yours is broken into pieces) or is it just a metered orifice? I know a lot of engines don't have a valve anymore and just have a metered orifice. As long as quality fuel and oils were used without excessive change intervals there should be minimal opportunity for buildup to clog the holes.

Tell me more

 

[ccheuser]

Wow, that was like surgery. 👍
Just curious.., do the service records show oil changes done at the dealership and possibly using semi blend oil?

Unfortunately no

 

[ccheuser]

Given that ccheuser posted how his PCV valve broke when he tried to remove it and that I've actually seen a few other reports of people complaining how this styled PCV valve also broke when they tried to remove it, I decided to take a closer look at the old one I took out. FWIW I wonder if there is a "weak" joint or spot where the shank of the PCV valve is attached to the mounting end. If my photos below are clear enough, one can see how there is a seam on the inside at the very end of the shank ... almost as if the two pieces snap together. But viewed from the outside of the valve you can see that they are welded somehow together with no seam visible. I could be completely wrong, but wanted to post this anyway to warn others that they need to be very careful of this potential breakage when pulling this type of a Honda PCV valve out of an engine. It is some type of plastic material after all, and not metal.

View attachment 150668 View attachment 150669

And this is the new style. The old one had a cover (at least the one I took out) and not a hole like the new style has. In hindsight the next time I change this I'll twist it gently back and forth instead of trying to pull it out.

 

[ccheuser]

Since inquiring minds (like mine) want to know, I cut open the old PCV valve I took out of the Pilot. The only internal valve was that light colored plastic needle looking thing that fits into the spring. It goes into the cut off tapered end of the PCV to it's right in the pic. Given it is some sort of plastic material that pretty much explains in my mind why there is only a muted rattle sound when it is clean (or new) and you shake it ... and not that familiar louder rattle of older styled metal PVC valves.
View attachment 150805

Well mine, the one I took out, didn't have any of that but who knows it probably went flying somewhere. That's why I couldn't hear anything when I shook the new one. Thanks for doing that.