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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been discussed numerous times here on the forum but I just purchased a 2011 Pilot Touring in April of this year with a 190K on the clock. The only reason I considered a vehicle with this many miles is because it was extremely clean and it had an extensive Carfax repair history which told me it was taken care of.

I think the only thing they didn't replace was the PCV valve which should have been a 15 minute job turned out to be almost 2 hours since the valve came out in multiple pieces. The last piece was stuck in so deep I had to use a plastic molly to get it out. I attached a picture to show what I did.

The moral of this story the original PCV valve has been redesigned and hopefully the next time I replace it, it will come out in one piece. People seem to forget this part and it is important for a lot of reasons, so make sure you keep track.

P.S. I'm glad I had this box of molly's from Harbor Freight and a long screw, this was my last resort and it worked! pcv.jpg

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Wow, that was like surgery. 👍
Just curious.., do the service records show oil changes done at the dealership and possibly using semi blend oil?
 

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Is this actually a valve (since yours is broken into pieces) or is it just a metered orifice? I know a lot of engines don't have a valve anymore and just have a metered orifice. As long as quality fuel and oils were used without excessive change intervals there should be minimal opportunity for buildup to clog the holes.
 

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Oh boy, I literally just changed the PCV valve on my '16 Pilot last weekend with 70,000 miles on it. While the old PCV seemed "okay", the new one I installed had a better sounding rattle to it even after I cleaned the old one with carb cleaner. It bothered me that this valve is horizontal when installed and some oil will just sit in/on the valve and not completely drain off. The pic below is an example of what I'm talking about. That one is from my CRV after just 20,000 miles. It is the same style valve as what Honda puts in the Pilot and I did not like all the oil scum sticking to that valve when I removed it to inspect. Plus, I ran across other reviews where people reported that this styled PCV valve body broke off in Pilots like what happened to the OP. So right or wrong, I decided to go ahead and replace my valve before it got too old and brittle. This post by ccheuser confirms in my mind that I did the right thing.

CRV.jpg
 

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As long as quality fuel and oils were used without excessive change intervals there should be minimal opportunity for buildup to clog the holes.
This is why on time oil changes with a quality oil is important. Full synthetic oil is less likely to bake on like thus.
I'm still not convinced that the VCM shutting down 3 cylinders isn't causing oil to be blown into places it shouldn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh boy, I literally just changed the PCV valve on my '16 Pilot last weekend with 70,000 miles on it. While the old PCV seemed "okay", the new one I installed had a better sounding rattle to it even after I cleaned the old one with carb cleaner. It bothered me that this valve is horizontal when installed and some oil will just sit in/on the valve and not completely drain off. The pic below is an example of what I'm talking about. That one is from my CRV after just 20,000 miles. It is the same style valve as what Honda puts in the Pilot and I did not like all the oil scum sticking to that valve when I removed it to inspect. Plus, I ran across other reviews where people reported that this styled PCV valve body broke off in Pilots like what happened to the OP. So right or wrong, I decided to go ahead and replace my valve before it got too old and brittle. This post by ccheuser confirms in my mind that I did the right thing.

View attachment 150641
They say 30k to 70k where 50k is when you should do it. I don't think mine was ever changed since it was the old design. On my list for every 30k since the cost is less than $20
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is why on time oil changes with a quality oil is important. Full synthetic oil is less likely to bake on like thus.
I'm still not convinced that the VCM shutting down 3 cylinders isn't causing oil to be blown into places it shouldn't.
I agree quality oil is critical. Like Chryslers Hemi shutting down 4 cylinders caused a ton of problems for them. My Honda no longer does that have the new S-VCM installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is this actually a valve (since yours is broken into pieces) or is it just a metered orifice? I know a lot of engines don't have a valve anymore and just have a metered orifice. As long as quality fuel and oils were used without excessive change intervals there should be minimal opportunity for buildup to clog the holes.
Tell me more
 

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They say 30k to 70k where 50k is when you should do it. I don't think mine was ever changed since it was the old design. On my list for every 30k since the cost is less than $20
I've not seen anything from Honda with respect to when a PCV valve should be changed. I think they view it as a part to be serviced when defective as opposed to something requiring periodic preventative maintenance. All I have to go on are the "how to" replacement instructions and the inspection procedure that I downloaded from Honda's Service Express a few years ago. The relevant parts are the following:

"Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B), and their connections for leaks or restrictions. Start the engine. At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve (A) when the hose (B) between the PCV valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched with your fingers or pliers. If there is no clicking sound, check the O-rings for cracks or damage. If they are OK, replace the PCV valve and recheck."
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Given that ccheuser posted how his PCV valve broke when he tried to remove it and that I've actually seen a few other reports of people complaining how this styled PCV valve also broke when they tried to remove it, I decided to take a closer look at the old one I took out. FWIW I wonder if there is a "weak" joint or spot where the shank of the PCV valve is attached to the mounting end. If my photos below are clear enough, one can see how there is a seam on the inside at the very end of the shank ... almost as if the two pieces snap together. But viewed from the outside of the valve you can see that they are welded somehow together with no seam visible. I could be completely wrong, but wanted to post this anyway to warn others that they need to be very careful of this potential breakage when pulling this type of a Honda PCV valve out of an engine. It is some type of plastic material after all, and not metal.

IMG_2368.JPG IMG_2369.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Given that ccheuser posted how his PCV valve broke when he tried to remove it and that I've actually seen a few other reports of people complaining how this styled PCV valve also broke when they tried to remove it, I decided to take a closer look at the old one I took out. FWIW I wonder if there is a "weak" joint or spot where the shank of the PCV valve is attached to the mounting end. If my photos below are clear enough, one can see how there is a seam on the inside at the very end of the shank ... almost as if the two pieces snap together. But viewed from the outside of the valve you can see that they are welded somehow together with no seam visible. I could be completely wrong, but wanted to post this anyway to warn others that they need to be very careful of this potential breakage when pulling this type of a Honda PCV valve out of an engine. It is some type of plastic material after all, and not metal.

View attachment 150668 View attachment 150669
And this is the new style. The old one had a cover (at least the one I took out) and not a hole like the new style has. In hindsight the next time I change this I'll twist it gently back and forth instead of trying to pull it out.
 

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I carefully removed this one out of a 2011 Acura TL (not mine, lol), that was stuck pretty good. After removing the 10mm bolt, rotate it to break the bond of the baked oil. It's obviously 2 pieces clipped together. This was the original OEM that was never changed, with 150k+ miles on it. It be safe to say it's as gunked up on the inside as the outside. Can faintly hear the rattle of the valve when shaken. No way this was working properly any more. Made in Japan and part # stamped on the side.
150670
 
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Well, I just ordered one of these as I'm at 120K miles and doubt mine was ever changed. I remember when mine failed in the CRV and I don't want this to happen on the Pilot. I have used full synthetic oil since buying the Pilot with 78K miles on it, I'll be interested to see what it looks like when I pull it. I also got a code P0847 and ordered a new Pressure switch for the transmission, that came into the dealer today. It will go in with a flush and fill Maxlife in the next few days.
 

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Tell me more
Nothing to tell, you guys have proven it is an actual valve still. Some manufacturers (like on my Traverse, for instance) have moved to a "metered orifice", AKA something that looks like a PCV valve but is completely empty inside. The size of the holes on either end speed up or slow down the vapors. A common mod on the early LLT V6 Traverse is to drill out those holes to slow the vapor down, thus letting the oil settle out rather than getting sucked into the intake. On a direct injection engine, little mods like that can make a big difference in intake valve buildup.
 

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Since inquiring minds (like mine) want to know, I cut open the old PCV valve I took out of the Pilot. The only internal valve was that light colored plastic needle looking thing that fits into the spring. It goes into the cut off tapered end of the PCV to it's right in the pic. Given it is some sort of plastic material that pretty much explains in my mind why there is only a muted rattle sound when it is clean (or new) and you shake it ... and not that familiar louder rattle of older styled metal PVC valves.
IMG_2370.JPG
 

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Since inquiring minds (like mine) want to know, I cut open the old PCV valve I took out of the Pilot. The only internal valve was that light colored plastic needle looking thing that fits into the spring. It goes into the cut off tapered end of the PCV to it's right in the pic. Given it is some sort of plastic material that pretty much explains in my mind why there is only a muted rattle sound when it is clean (or new) and you shake it ... and not that familiar louder rattle of older styled metal PVC valves.
View attachment 150805
Seems a click pen has more working parts. Lol, Not a lot to technology here. I find it interesting that a vacuum hose is not attached to it like many other PCV valves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Since inquiring minds (like mine) want to know, I cut open the old PCV valve I took out of the Pilot. The only internal valve was that light colored plastic needle looking thing that fits into the spring. It goes into the cut off tapered end of the PCV to it's right in the pic. Given it is some sort of plastic material that pretty much explains in my mind why there is only a muted rattle sound when it is clean (or new) and you shake it ... and not that familiar louder rattle of older styled metal PVC valves.
View attachment 150805
Well mine, the one I took out, didn't have any of that but who knows it probably went flying somewhere. That's why I couldn't hear anything when I shook the new one. Thanks for doing that.
 
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