Nice solution! I love basement parts drawer fixes.

 

Wow, that was like surgery. 👍
Just curious.., do the service records show oil changes done at the dealership and possibly using semi blend oil?

 

Unfortunately no

 

Is this actually a valve (since yours is broken into pieces) or is it just a metered orifice? I know a lot of engines don't have a valve anymore and just have a metered orifice. As long as quality fuel and oils were used without excessive change intervals there should be minimal opportunity for buildup to clog the holes.

 

As long as quality fuel and oils were used without excessive change intervals there should be minimal opportunity for buildup to clog the holes.

This is why on time oil changes with a quality oil is important. Full synthetic oil is less likely to bake on like thus.
I'm still not convinced that the VCM shutting down 3 cylinders isn't causing oil to be blown into places it shouldn't.

 

Oh boy, I literally just changed the PCV valve on my '16 Pilot last weekend with 70,000 miles on it. While the old PCV seemed "okay", the new one I installed had a better sounding rattle to it even after I cleaned the old one with carb cleaner. It bothered me that this valve is horizontal when installed and some oil will just sit in/on the valve and not completely drain off. The pic below is an example of what I'm talking about. That one is from my CRV after just 20,000 miles. It is the same style valve as what Honda puts in the Pilot and I did not like all the oil scum sticking to that valve when I removed it to inspect. Plus, I ran across other reviews where people reported that this styled PCV valve body broke off in Pilots like what happened to the OP. So right or wrong, I decided to go ahead and replace my valve before it got too old and brittle. This post by ccheuser confirms in my mind that I did the right thing.

 

They say 30k to 70k where 50k is when you should do it. I don't think mine was ever changed since it was the old design. On my list for every 30k since the cost is less than $20

 

Given that ccheuser posted how his PCV valve broke when he tried to remove it and that I've actually seen a few other reports of people complaining how this styled PCV valve also broke when they tried to remove it, I decided to take a closer look at the old one I took out. FWIW I wonder if there is a "weak" joint or spot where the shank of the PCV valve is attached to the mounting end. If my photos below are clear enough, one can see how there is a seam on the inside at the very end of the shank ... almost as if the two pieces snap together. But viewed from the outside of the valve you can see that they are welded somehow together with no seam visible. I could be completely wrong, but wanted to post this anyway to warn others that they need to be very careful of this potential breakage when pulling this type of a Honda PCV valve out of an engine. It is some type of plastic material after all, and not metal.

 

And this is the new style. The old one had a cover (at least the one I took out) and not a hole like the new style has. In hindsight the next time I change this I'll twist it gently back and forth instead of trying to pull it out.

 

I carefully removed this one out of a 2011 Acura TL (not mine, lol), that was stuck pretty good. After removing the 10mm bolt, rotate it to break the bond of the baked oil. It's obviously 2 pieces clipped together. This was the original OEM that was never changed, with 150k+ miles on it. It be safe to say it's as gunked up on the inside as the outside. Can faintly hear the rattle of the valve when shaken. No way this was working properly any more. Made in Japan and part # stamped on the side.

 

Well, I just ordered one of these as I'm at 120K miles and doubt mine was ever changed. I remember when mine failed in the CRV and I don't want this to happen on the Pilot. I have used full synthetic oil since buying the Pilot with 78K miles on it, I'll be interested to see what it looks like when I pull it. I also got a code P0847 and ordered a new Pressure switch for the transmission, that came into the dealer today. It will go in with a flush and fill Maxlife in the next few days.

 

Since inquiring minds (like mine) want to know, I cut open the old PCV valve I took out of the Pilot. The only internal valve was that light colored plastic needle looking thing that fits into the spring. It goes into the cut off tapered end of the PCV to it's right in the pic. Given it is some sort of plastic material that pretty much explains in my mind why there is only a muted rattle sound when it is clean (or new) and you shake it ... and not that familiar louder rattle of older styled metal PVC valves.

 

Seems a click pen has more working parts. Lol, Not a lot to technology here. I find it interesting that a vacuum hose is not attached to it like many other PCV valves.

 

Here's mine. I've used full synthetic since I've owned it. PO took it to Honda for the 70K they owned it.

Now working on then3rd gear pressure switch replacement

 

Oh that's a nice icky 10 year old PCV. Had you not used full synthetic oil, might notta came out so easily. More proof of the need to deactivate the VCM.

 

Vcm been deactivated since I got it. It came out just fine. Still dont like the gunk. Imagine if I kept using reg oil and left vcm active. Yuck. Anyway going to take her for a drive with the new pcv and new 3rd gear switch and see how she acts.

 

You deactivated the VCM, but that could be left over gunk from the owner before who also might have gotten dealership oil changes with semi blend.
¯\(ツ)/¯
Let us know how the test goes. 👍

 

Ha yes. It drove exactly like it used too but hopefully will be better qith the new pcv and 3rd gear pressure switch.

 

Fuel mileage seems to be improving since the replacement of the PCV. I'll report back again when I get a few weeks of commutes in.

 

It's said that a bad PCV can cause misfires by causing a vacuum problem. Good to know it helps fuel economy.
😁👍