I never got any CELs with 4 years of VCMuzzler, but I made the switch to S-VCM as well because I liked that the temperature gauge goes to "actual" as soon as the temperature goes above "normal" and well before an overheat situation.

 

You may be comparing old and new. I’ve been using the VCMTuner II Advanced for well over a year now and no CEL, VCM is 100% disabled and actual coolant temp returns to displaying on the ScanGauge when actual coolant temp approaches 200F. The VCMTuner II disabler disables itself.

 

I've had a VCMuzzler installed since the car was about a year old. I get the occasional ECO light after sitting in a hot-soak traffic situation, but it goes off almost immediately once the car is moving or the fans come up to speed to shed the excess heat. No CEL's.

The temp gauge is more an idiot gauge than an accurate indicator of coolant temp, even without the VCMuzzler installed. The actual temp range between about 180º and maybe 220ºF causes minimum gauge needle movement regardless. The VCMuzzler moves that gauge-movement range slightly. But since it has no scale, all that changes is the needle position. At the high end of the scale, the resistor adds about 10ºF to the less-responsive-needle window.

Were I starting from scratch, I'd probably choose one of the "smarter" units. At this point though I'm unlikely to change out what I have installed already. I, like a large majority of drivers, only look at the temp gauge once in a while, or when the cluster lights up and gives a high-temp alarm. That ten degree error at one (of the three...) engine coolant temp sensors is unlikely to make a difference in how I respond the gauge reading, although it will delay the temp alarms by maybe ten degrees. Critically, it does not change the fans operating temperature; that duty goes to the incoming coolant temp sensor, rather than the outlet temp sensor when the VCM defeat devices connect.

 

I'm using one too, around 35k miles with it and no trouble. A couple times in stop and go on really hot days the system seemed to want to engage but stopped immediately as soon as I started rolling,

 

For 4 years I was using the VCM Muzzler II on my 2017 Pilot and 2017 Ridgeline. Used the 100 ohm resistor, had no CELs on either vehicle. Picked up a ScanGauge II to monitor the VCM on/off and temperature. Found on both vehicles the VCM stayed off about 90% of the time. So decided to upgrade to the more advanced defeat device, the VCM Tuner 2. Now VCM is disabled 100% of the time on both for over a year now.

VCMTUNER II - Advanced - 2007+ for Honda Acura 3.5L I-VTEC Disable VCM / ECO mode

Product ID: VCMTD1000 In Stock. Read Reviews | Vehicle Fitment List NOTE: Product generally ships in 24-48 hours. Orders placed after 1pm PST Friday and over the weekend will be shipped the following business day (monday). usps is closed on monday 9/1/2025. Canada orders: CanadaPost on...

www.vcmtuner.com

 

I have a 2012 Honda Pilot Touring 4wd, my problem is accelerating issues .I can be cruising 40-45 mph and I want to pull out and pass, and sometimes this vehicle just doesn't have enough power unless I floor it....to get it to start accelerating...my question is will this help? and where do I buy it at it? which resistor do you recommend?

 

I'm not sure that either will solve your power issue. You can experiment some by tapping the brake pedal slightly before demanding the power, as that will cause it to drop out of VCM momentarily.

As far as which option for VCM eliminator, the S-VCM is the currently recommended option. It offers a couple benefits around over-temp gauge accuracy, since the sensor it's trying to fool is the return coolant from the radiator. That one plus two more combine to drive the gauge in the instrument cluster.

I have a VCMuzzler installed, and the gauge isn't a big enough issue to warrant the upgrade. But were I starting from scratch, the S-VCM is weapon of choice these days.

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You might share the mileage and history on the car. One of our regular contributors shared a similar symptom, and ended up replacing PCV and EGR valves to restore original performance. Neither is a particular chore to replace if you are comfortable with the tools. The PCV is plastic and can get a little crispy with age. Plus if you use conventional (not full synthetic) oil and only on the MM schedule, the O-rings can get stuck from varnish in the bore it fits in. Of course that varnish is the same stuff that's affecting the PCV operation inside the valve, making replacement more critical.

 

How did the plugs look? How about that PCV valve? Those, especially the plugs, are valid telltales of VCM-related oil-control issues. Cylinders 1-3 are the most-activated VCM's cylinders, and oil control issues show up with darker and maybe oil-coked plug tips. Do a bit of forum searching on the EGR replacement and consider that experience. IIRC, it was member AVC who shared his analysis and results here. Maybe that will help with your searching.

 

actually both the plugs and pcv valve looked pretty good for 148,000 miles, I have read through alot of the posts, and I have read AVC's EGR findings, my question is where can i get the S-VCM? I've looked and it seems like all I can find are cheap versions of it.

 

I have a 2013 Honda Pilot EX-L. Can someone provide me with a link where to buy this from please. Also can someone refer me to a video to get this installed as well please. I have a mechanic who lives nearby who will be able to help install the same.

 

I just went to svcmcontroller dot com

just ordered one for my 2013 pilot