I’m trying to replace the CV joint and wheel hub on my 2014 pilot, both of them are stuck. Any suggestion on how to remove them?
SSiegrist
This thread BOLT SIZES FOR CV BRACKET TO TRANSAXLE (RIGHT SIDE) in the last week or so includes the WSM instructions plus user suggestions on how to remove the axle. The wheel hub is part of the bearing assembly, which is unbolted from the steering knuckle, wheel speed sensor disconnected, caliper removed and supported (done already to get the axle out...), then, um, persuaded out of the knuckle. Anti-Seize used on assembly may save you some of the persuasion fun next time.
And welcome to Piloteers!
And welcome to Piloteers!
After trying to get the wheel hub out with knuckle still attached to the car - and completely failing - removed the knuckle fully. This includes two ball joints (lower arm and tie rod) and two large bolts securing knuckle to the strut.
Removing speed sensor: take out the bolt securing it to the knuckle and try to pull the sensor out. About 99% chance it will not come out, so then you undo the bolts securing it to strut and wheel well, unplug it, and pop off the plastic holder securing its connector to frame.
Getting hub out of the knuckle, once the knuckle is off:
A kit like this may do the trick:
If you have a press, can use that. You could also rig something using clamps and a hydraulic bottle jack.
Problem is, that speed sensor protrudes into the knuckle and is in the way. Real hard to get the hub out without destroying the sensor in the process. If you do damage the sensor, you will need to order a new one (about $40 for OEM, make sure you get the correct side). Old sensor will need to be drilled out. It is 3/8" diameter. I used a 23/64" bit drilling out mine. Make sure you drill it out BEFORE putting the new hub in. In general, the magnetic ring on the hub is real easy to damage, so be careful with it.
Now onto the axle... I already gave a full account of my travails in the thread linked above. If that support bearing is stuck in its bracket, there's just no clean way of getting it out without destroying the support bearing.
Not sure what you mean by "trying to replace the CV joint". Exactly what parts have you ordered? Cause you have two options:
If you have not done any serious hammering yet, you can retain the inner axle portion. Clean out the inner joint cup, do whatever you needed to do with the outer CV joint, and then reassemble the axle in place using a new inner boot kit, repacked with new grease etc.
Or you bite the bullet, force the old axle out and replace with a full new axle.
Removing speed sensor: take out the bolt securing it to the knuckle and try to pull the sensor out. About 99% chance it will not come out, so then you undo the bolts securing it to strut and wheel well, unplug it, and pop off the plastic holder securing its connector to frame.
Getting hub out of the knuckle, once the knuckle is off:
A kit like this may do the trick:
Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 37342 Master Wheel Hub and Bearing Remover and Installer Kit, Back and Front Wheel Bearing Puller Kit, Back and Front Wheel Hub Puller, Easy to Use : Automotive
Buy OEMTOOLS 37342 Master Wheel Hub and Bearing Remover and Installer Kit, Back and Front Wheel Bearing Puller Kit, Back and Front Wheel Hub Puller, Easy to Use: Hub Assemblies - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Problem is, that speed sensor protrudes into the knuckle and is in the way. Real hard to get the hub out without destroying the sensor in the process. If you do damage the sensor, you will need to order a new one (about $40 for OEM, make sure you get the correct side). Old sensor will need to be drilled out. It is 3/8" diameter. I used a 23/64" bit drilling out mine. Make sure you drill it out BEFORE putting the new hub in. In general, the magnetic ring on the hub is real easy to damage, so be careful with it.
Now onto the axle... I already gave a full account of my travails in the thread linked above. If that support bearing is stuck in its bracket, there's just no clean way of getting it out without destroying the support bearing.
Not sure what you mean by "trying to replace the CV joint". Exactly what parts have you ordered? Cause you have two options:
If you have not done any serious hammering yet, you can retain the inner axle portion. Clean out the inner joint cup, do whatever you needed to do with the outer CV joint, and then reassemble the axle in place using a new inner boot kit, repacked with new grease etc.
Or you bite the bullet, force the old axle out and replace with a full new axle.
That inner drive joint has a three-legged spider with bearing rollers on each leg from the half-shaft side. Those ride in grooves in the part that indexes in the side of the gearbox. If you pull on the shaft, it will pull the spider out before the inside end releases from the gearbox. The two bolts on the carrier bearing on the right side hold the inner shaft in the gearbox. Once the bolts are out, pry on the bearing to get the right side shaft out of the gearbox.
On the left side, the end that fits inside the gearbox is splined, and fits into a seal, a bearing, and then the side gear in the differential. The inside end of that splined shaft has a groove in it, with a spring-wire ring in that groove that helps hold the splined shaft in place. That's what you are fighting when you try to withdraw the inner shaft. Folks here have discussed using Vise-Grip pliers on the rim of the inner drive joint shell and a slide hammer to pull enough to get that ring started back through the side gear splines. I haven't pulled mine out, but from a look at the WSM and the actual space, Use a pry bar, maybe with a wood block as fulcrum, to put the right axial pressure to get the joint to move outward. Once it moves enough to get the ring started through the side gear splines, it will come out the rest of the way a lot more easily.
![Image]()
The inner drive joints wear in those grooves under high speed and high load. The three bearing rollers make little divots in the drive side of the grooves, and that will give you some vibration under load that starts around 60 MPH or so and stays as speed increases. Foot off the throttle and the vibration reduces almost instantly. Bottom line though is that you should probably not leave the old inner joint sleeve and splined shaft in place, especially if you are chasing noise and vibration symptoms with the axle replacement. The inner joints generally don't make noise, but do cause a vibration that you feel through the footwell and the seat, with little or no effect felt in the steering wheel.
![Image]()
On the left side, the end that fits inside the gearbox is splined, and fits into a seal, a bearing, and then the side gear in the differential. The inside end of that splined shaft has a groove in it, with a spring-wire ring in that groove that helps hold the splined shaft in place. That's what you are fighting when you try to withdraw the inner shaft. Folks here have discussed using Vise-Grip pliers on the rim of the inner drive joint shell and a slide hammer to pull enough to get that ring started back through the side gear splines. I haven't pulled mine out, but from a look at the WSM and the actual space, Use a pry bar, maybe with a wood block as fulcrum, to put the right axial pressure to get the joint to move outward. Once it moves enough to get the ring started through the side gear splines, it will come out the rest of the way a lot more easily.
The inner drive joints wear in those grooves under high speed and high load. The three bearing rollers make little divots in the drive side of the grooves, and that will give you some vibration under load that starts around 60 MPH or so and stays as speed increases. Foot off the throttle and the vibration reduces almost instantly. Bottom line though is that you should probably not leave the old inner joint sleeve and splined shaft in place, especially if you are chasing noise and vibration symptoms with the axle replacement. The inner joints generally don't make noise, but do cause a vibration that you feel through the footwell and the seat, with little or no effect felt in the steering wheel.
Yes. That tool takes care of the duty nicely.
Anybody in the central Oregon neighborhoods (Deschutes, Crook or Jefferson counties) is welcome to use one I have.
Also, a large three-legged gear puller can be used to push the axle out of the hub. If you are near a Harbor Freight store, this one 8 in. Three-Jaw Gear Puller would get things done. For a bit more, you can get one from Jeff B's garage if you order https://www.amazon.com/DURATECH-Rem...WRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Your local auto parts store should have one to rent or loan.
Normally, you'd use that tool to pull a hub or gear off a shaft. Following at least the spirit of Fig Newton's Fifth Law of Mechanical Reciprocity
, it's the same as pushing a shaft (in this case the stub axle) out of a hub. Use the screw on the puller to put pressure on the axle, then use a hammer on the screw to shock the joint loose.
Anybody in the central Oregon neighborhoods (Deschutes, Crook or Jefferson counties) is welcome to use one I have.
Also, a large three-legged gear puller can be used to push the axle out of the hub. If you are near a Harbor Freight store, this one 8 in. Three-Jaw Gear Puller would get things done. For a bit more, you can get one from Jeff B's garage if you order https://www.amazon.com/DURATECH-Rem...WRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Your local auto parts store should have one to rent or loan.
Normally, you'd use that tool to pull a hub or gear off a shaft. Following at least the spirit of Fig Newton's Fifth Law of Mechanical Reciprocity
, it's the same as pushing a shaft (in this case the stub axle) out of a hub. Use the screw on the puller to put pressure on the axle, then use a hammer on the screw to shock the joint loose.What I linked above is mainly for hub pulling. It sits against the face of the knuckle while pulling at the hub from behind. Pushing out the axle kinda requires to apply pressure in the opposite direction.
The tool that works better is one of those kits:
You attach a plate to the hub with lug nuts, and then use the black bolt to push the axle out. If the hub is not really frozen in the knuckle, you can then use slide hammer in the same kit to get the hub out. I.e. even in rust belt, rear hubs come out with just a few taps. For the front hubs, slide hammer can be used to pull out the moving portion of the hub, so getting out the rest of the hub is easier.
The tool that works better is one of those kits:
Amazon.com: Slide Hammer, Orion Motor Tech 9-Way Internal/External Slide Hammer Puller Set - Pulls Hubs, Rear Wheel Axle Shafts, Bearings, Bushings, Seals, Retainers : Automotive
Buy Slide Hammer, Orion Motor Tech 9-Way Internal/External Slide Hammer Puller Set - Pulls Hubs, Rear Wheel Axle Shafts, Bearings, Bushings, Seals, Retainers: Puller Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
You attach a plate to the hub with lug nuts, and then use the black bolt to push the axle out. If the hub is not really frozen in the knuckle, you can then use slide hammer in the same kit to get the hub out. I.e. even in rust belt, rear hubs come out with just a few taps. For the front hubs, slide hammer can be used to pull out the moving portion of the hub, so getting out the rest of the hub is easier.
The slide hammer is the easiest way to get it free. Bolts are out of the bearing carrier. You've soaked the inte5rference with a good penetrating/release fluid (PB Blaster, ATF/Acetone 50/50 blend, or my favorite: Aero Kroil from Kano) to dissolve rust issues. Worst-case is that the knuckle comes out of the car and goes to an auto machine shop with a press.
The little press-and-frame hub and bearing remover link in post 4 in this thread
is the tool made specifically for this duty. The $400 is a little spendy especially if you don't maintain several cars. I've had the rich uncle's version of this tool (Sir Tools B90, same $400 but twenty years ago) for a couple decades and it easily paid for itself the first time I used it, vs. having a local model specialist swap a couple rear bearings in one of the summer cars. It makes the hub and bearing work an absolute breeze.
The little press-and-frame hub and bearing remover link in post 4 in this thread
Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 37342 Master Wheel Hub and Bearing Remover and Installer Kit, Back and Front Wheel Bearing Puller Kit, Back and Front Wheel Hub Puller, Easy to Use : Automotive
Buy OEMTOOLS 37342 Master Wheel Hub and Bearing Remover and Installer Kit, Back and Front Wheel Bearing Puller Kit, Back and Front Wheel Hub Puller, Easy to Use: Hub Assemblies - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
is the tool made specifically for this duty. The $400 is a little spendy especially if you don't maintain several cars. I've had the rich uncle's version of this tool (Sir Tools B90, same $400 but twenty years ago) for a couple decades and it easily paid for itself the first time I used it, vs. having a local model specialist swap a couple rear bearings in one of the summer cars. It makes the hub and bearing work an absolute breeze.
Nothing like OEM...
www.hondapartsonline.net
45255-STX-A00 - Splash Shield 2009-2015 Honda Pilot | Honda Parts Online
Save Money On Your OEM Splash Shield - 45255stxa00 - For Your 2009-2015 Honda Pilot Vehicle When You Shop With Us Online!
www.hondapartsonline.net
I ordered and picked up a dust shield from Honda, shield, hub, rotor, and caliper are all back on the car. The ABS sensor that I ordered from Amazon wasn’t the right size, ordered a replacement that should be here on Wednesday. What a journey this has been, great learning experience though!!!
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