On a scale of 1-10 (10 being "take it to someone who knows how") I'd call it a 4. You just need to remove the plastic engine cover, disconnect the individual ignition coils and remove them...then the spark plugs. You'll need a 10mm socket, 5mm hex socket/allen wrench, 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8" drive ratchet along with the correct combination of extensions. The back 3 plugs are a little bit of a reach...but I'm not that tall, so I just grab a pillow and lay on the radiator support/hood while doing them so I'm not straining my back. Use the OEM plugs. Hope that helps. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply and for detailing the tools required. I need to see if I have a 5mm hex socket (if not another toy to buy in my effort to stimulate the local economy).

Doesn't seem too difficult a job.

 

Sure thing, have fun eh. I haven't bought tools for some time as I've spent the past 8 years stimulating the economy in vain.

 

Changed Spark Plugs yesterday. Yes, the back three are a real bugger. I drove about 8 miles afterward with what seemed like no problems. Got in to go to work this morninga and it was very sluggish and the engine malfunction light came on. Drove a couple of miles and pulled over. I turned the engine off and restarted. The light went off and it was no longer sluggish. Hoping I didn't screw anything up. Any ideas what would cause this? Currently not in a position financially for a costly repair.:3:

 

Changed Spark Plugs yesterday. Yes, the back three are a real bugger. I drove about 8 miles afterward with what seemed like no problems. Got in to go to work this morninga and it was very sluggish and the engine malfunction light came on. Drove a couple of miles and pulled over. I turned the engine off and restarted. The light went off and it was no longer sluggish. Hoping I didn't screw anything up. Any ideas what would cause this? Currently not in a position financially for a costly repair.:3:

What kind of plugs did you use? I would suggest rechecking the individual Coil-Over-Plug connectors. Maybe one was not clicked on all the way? Just double check everything was put back on correctly. If the light does come back on, I would take it somewhere just to see what the code is.

 

I will check those, as one was a real pain and I am not sure I got the screw tightened all the way. I used NGK Platinum's. I am hoping is is something as simple as tightening it down. The fron three are good. It was the back three that may need some adjusting. Thanks for the input.

 

Got my plugs in this weekend and, knock on wood, everything seems to be OK so far. I actually had a harder time with the front center one - fan shroud is in the way - and figuring out which combination of socket extensions gave me the best clearance. Since the plugs cost about $9 a piece I hope these last 120K miles like the originals.

Thanks again for your advice!

 

FYI- My local Honda dealer quoted me $250 to replace the spark plugs on my pilot.

 

FYI- My local Honda dealer quoted me $250 to replace the spark plugs on my pilot.

Which $tealership.. so I know which one to avoid! :3:

 

2011 Honda Polit Touring 77K. The check engine light came yesterday, I brought it to the dealer they said it was the after market spark plugs I put in it "Champion plugs" they charged me $350.00, to replace them, the light is off for now. I changed the plugs B/C the light came on in the first place, if the light comes back on what should I do besides bring it back to the dealer any thoughts would be great.

 

Since the plugs cost about $9 a piece I hope these last 120K miles like the originals.

$9 is a steal for an OEM Honda plug. The list price from Honda is $18.08 and the best I was able to find was $13.34 plus shipping. Can I ask where you found them?

 

Go to sparkplugs.com and get them there. Get the Denso or NGK plugs from them.

 

I replaced mine with NGK Iridium, for no other reason other than, they were a little cheaper than the Laser Platinum which is the OEM plug - you can buy them both at Kragen Auto Parts (or whatever it's called in your area) I have noticed no engine running difference from before changing the plugs, except very slightly improved fuel economy, which I attribute to the old plugs.

Here's a link to the Laser Platinum http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NGK&MfrPartNumber=4363&PartType=960&PTSet=A

 

It looks like the NGK double platinum plugs are sold at most parts stores but can anyone confirm that they are the same as the OEM Honda parts? I'd like to make sure I get the ones with the 105k service interval but can't find any reference to that other than from Honda.

 

Matt, make sure you compare the spark plug # below:

NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. PZFR5F-11

 

I ended up getting my plugs from the dealer but probably should have hit Autozone and saved a few bucks.

It took a few hours but the new plugs are in. I've changed plugs multiple times in previous vehicles but this was my first attempt at getting into the engine compartment in the Pilot. Wow it was not what I thought. When I opened the hood my first thought was "where in the heck are the plugs?".

I knew the general vicinity to look in given it was a transverse V6 but it was amazing how much work it takes just to "uncover" them.

I actually found the front plugs harder to replace given the space limitations between the engine and the radiator. Even though I couldn't see the rear ones as well, there was more space to work with.

It would be nice to have a DIY for these things but without one the owner's manual gives some decent instructions for the first timer. I took some pics that I plan to post shortly as well.

I ended up using a 6 mm allen wrench and I think a greater assortment of socket extensions would be helpful.

Drove 500 miles today and averaged about 19 mpg but I'm not sure I'll be able to see any mileage improvement.

 

Matt, how many miles did you have on your plugs before you changed them out?

 

Matt, how many miles did you have on your plugs before you changed them out?

I'm at 97k. The plugs looked to have some fouling. I will post some pics when I get a chance. Matt

 

...
I ended up using a 6 mm allen wrench and I think a greater assortment of socket extensions would be helpful...

Oops, it may have been a 6mm, not a 5mm instead. Sorry if I threw anyone off.

 

I'm by no means a master mechanic but I do some general maintenance and thought I'd post some pics that may be of use/interest to those thinking about taking on spark plug replacement.

Here are the covers I removed.

 

Try again...

 

Here's the engine with covers removed.

 

The 6 mm allen wrench is needed to remove the wire covers.

 

The trickiest part for me was getting these things out on the front side due to lack of clearance when you pull them out.

 

Here's an old and new plug side by side. Note the fouling and rust type material on the threads. This is 97k and almost 6 years of life.

 

For those that changed their own plugs, did you change your ignition/spark plug wires as well?

My local dealer quoted me $213 to change the plugs and wires. I can find the plugs on-line but not the plug wires.

John