Hi, need some help, trying to save my father in law's Pilot, and unwilling to give up on it without trying a few things and before spending a lot of money on guesses.

Subject Pilot - Original owner 265K miles on 2004 EXL; original trans, service up to date for the most point.

What began with a shift solenoid code which we cleared with an autozone scan tool and ran for about 500 more miles has now left us with an unclearable shift solenoid code specific to solenoid A and consistent driveability issues and the infamous FLASHING GREEN D (Drive position). Road tested, pilot is down on power and not shifting, but also NOT apparently slipping either. If I shift by column and select it pulls out better and begins in 1st, and will go into second but seems to cease shifting up after that. Its enough to get up to hwy speed but without using the column shifter its limping around like its stuck in 2nd always. Not safe when pulling away, and likely deteriorating what's left of trans.

Tried a better code scanner, my foxwell 510...it confirmed shift solenoid A failure. Using the scanner I also ran some live tests and checked values but don't really know what they mean. Per the advice of the inner-webs I did pull and clean the dual liner solenoid on top of trans, cleaned and reinstalled. NO CHANGE. I did locate the 4 single shift solenoids, with brown and black connectors, 2 under starter and 2 under thermostat outlet radiator hose. Cleaned and bench tested all 4....they all click when cycling with a 12 volt power source, and test with a multi-meter to 16.1 or 16.2 ohm consistently. While they weren't terribly dirty they are clean now and chose to swap the brown for brown locations and black for black locations thinking that if the code switches to solenoid A, B, C or whatever failure then something is wrong with that solenoid despite bench testing good. Connections look good and clean with no corrosion. Live tests with scanner indicate everything is triggering AFAIK.

I have not changed fluid but have a case of honda DW1 coming. Pilot appears to have original inline trans filter which I understand you don't change unless you rebuild. I have not pulled and cleaned the front single solenoid because the scanner did speak to problems there.

Any other ideas, or things I should check before road testing again to see if this issue continues?

Definitely change the filter. I would switch Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife. Do a drain, fill and drive, 3 times. The thinner fluid may help.

 

And while you're at it, check battery and alternator and their associated cables, since loss or variations in electrical power can cause all kinds of poltergeists. Also check transmission range sensor aka neutral safety switch. But try the advice you just got above mine first.

 

I didn't have any problem thinking about replacing the simple inline filter on top until I read this:

 

I'm unwilling to give Honda any credit on making some ATF filters unserviceable, on the bases of "because you don't need to." A filter in time will begin to restrict flow. It's what filters do. The only thing saving my 244k mile 5-speed transmission in my Crosstour is the fact I changed to a thinner fluid, Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF 142k miles ago. Zero transmission problems. But you throw in a little towing with a couple of overheat episodes, that filter will be the Achilles heel.

 

As far you and any of us know, per that video you posted, your filter is probably contaminated and has been as the transmission deteriorates, which then would warrant replacing the filter, it says "replace the filter if it is leaking, or contaminated or trans being overhauled"

So, with that being said, there is a lot of online information from both this forum and the oddy forums showing success when the filter is replaced, I would venture out to replace the shift solenoids for 3rd and 4th gear as you are having problems moving up from second. They are cheap and worthwhile trying.

**correction; I meant to say 3rd and 4th pressure switches lol

I would also recommend maxlife atf over honda dw1.

 

Ordered up a pair of Wix #58129 filters for this and the wife's 2005. I did see the lower ground was missing and corroded off actually...although someone at some point did a make shift one off another location. Will mend this. Thanks for the tips folks and will report back what happens next on this subject.

 

Did you check the transmission ground? It's located on the side of the trans and facing the driver's side tire...it's labeled G-151 in the FSM. Aren't the shift solenoids under the starter A&C? I was getting a flashing D on my '05 around two years ago along with the trouble codes which signified an open circuit in shift solenoids A&C...although I never got any trouble codes for shift solenoid B which is located on the top of the transmission. It took me awhile but I eventually figured out what was going on. I was getting continuity on A&C's wiring terminal but there was just enough corrosion on the small wires connecting to G-151 which caused the resistance to be just high enough to trigger the trouble codes. Solenoid B is located closer to G-151 than A&C so that's the only reason why I wasn't getting a trouble code for it. I cut off the corroded wires and crimped on some ring terminals as a temporary fix...voila...problem solved. I found a new wiring harness for a great price on ebay but before I installed it I applied three coats of brush-on rubberized insulation to the exposed wiring to prevent it from happening again.

 

Update:
Dumped in a bottle of lube gard Transmission Flush from Rock Auto to prep and clean trans internals before drain - 15 mintues, cycling thru gears in driveway with Pbrake on.

Drained nasty fluid, it looked well past it IMO
Removed Inline filter, this was absolutely the original with 265K miles
Removed and cleaned the dual linear solenoid on top and the front single

Before installing the new wix filter

I blew compressed air into the exposed open holes where the Dual linear solenoid and front single were. Lots of dirty fluid came out, in fact the middle hole, (where the dual linear solenoid lives), was seemingly plugged for a second and then blew some nastiness out where the inline filter screws up. This was all pretty satisfying.

Result:
It took 5 quarts to refill, blowing the lines our really emptied it out. A normal drain is 2.8 qts according to internet,
Green D still flashes despite battery being disconnected;
Code PO753/Permanent still remains and continues to say "permanent" and will not reset by the foxwell NT510 scanner.

Still back where we were at beginning. Won't shift out of 3rd it seems. Will get first if I use the lever, Reverse neutral and Park are fine.

Any ideas Pilot team?

 

Update:
Dumped in a bottle of lube gard Transmission Flush from Rock Auto to prep and clean trans internals before drain - 15 mintues, cycling thru gears in driveway with Pbrake on.
View attachment 138622

Drained nasty fluid, it looked well past it IMO
Removed Inline filter, this was absolutely the original with 265K miles
Removed and cleaned the dual linear solenoid on top and the front single
View attachment 138623 View attachment 138624
Before installing the new wix filter View attachment 138625 I blew compressed air into the exposed open holes where the Dual linear solenoid and front single were. Lots of dirty fluid came out, in fact the middle hole, (where the dual linear solenoid lives), was seemingly plugged for a second and then blew some nastiness out where the inline filter screws up. This was all pretty satisfying.

Result:
It took 5 quarts to refill, blowing the lines our really emptied it out. A normal drain is 2.8 qts according to internet,
Green D still flashes despite battery being disconnected;
Code PO753 still remains and continues to say "permanent" and will not reset by the foxwell NT510 scanner.

Still back where we were at beginning. Won't shift out of 2nd it seems. Will get first if I use the lever, Reverse neutral and Park are fine.

Any ideas Pilot team?

It sounds like the transmission is in limp mode. The computer applies max pressure to the clutches, and will not shift beyond 2nd gear, to protect the unit from further damage. Did you have slipping problems in the higher gears before this?

 

Did you get the Honda software package for your Foxwell? There might be more specific codes reported if you have that feature.

If you’re willing to throw $50 at the problem you might try replacing the 3rd gear pressure switch. Get an OEM one so you’re not wondering if a new aftermarket one is a piece of junk.

 

Yep, honda software for the foxwell. 3rd gear pressure switch...where/what is that. Do you mean the shift solenoids? I have cleaned and tested all to be healthy

 

@road2cycle is recommending replacing the 3rd gear pressure switch with new OEM to remove a variable

 

#11 or 12 on this diagram.
I’m not sure which is 3rd and which is 4th since I replaced both at the same time to resolve flashing D a few years ago. That was before I got a Foxwell NT530.

 

#12 or 13 since your Pilot is 2004.
2004 diagram

 

28600-P7W-003

#12 or 13 since your Pilot is 2004.
2004 diagram

Interesting thanks, this is certainly worth a try...I suppose pulling these will dump trans fluid everywhere, yes? Found these on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-Trans-Pressure-Switches-OEM-28600-P7W-003-28600-P7Z-003-99194-For-Honda/153548935982?hash=item23c03ad32e:g:sRkAAOSwTHldGe-d

Also, wouldn't the Foxwell software have a live test to check these pressure switches? I will have to check my NT510, maybe your 530 has more detail?

 

so?? how did this story end? I feeling sad not knowing the final outcome of this transmission problem.

 

No dice, the replacements didn't fix the problem. We gave up but my father in law is still driving the pilot. Can't make the trans any worse. Has to column shift to pull out, and it never gets top gear either, so it inevitably stuck in 2nd or 3rd. 266K miles now.

 

...I did locate the 4 single shift solenoids, with brown and black connectors, 2 under starter and 2 under thermostat outlet radiator hose. Cleaned and bench tested all 4....they all click when cycling with a 12 volt power source, and test with a multi-meter to 16.1 or 16.2 ohm consistently...

I have question how this test of pressure control switch solenoid is valid when the solenoid is supposed to detect fluid pressure and to switch on when the pressure falls in range. FSM says ATF pressures for 1st-4th clutches are 140-146 PSI (@2k rpm), service limit is 130 PSI. Why did it click at atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI)?
???

 

Is that safe, for him or for others? Y'all need to chip in and get him a safe ride.

 

OP knows about these, right?

That code says shift solenoid A (SS) stuck on. Its state should be off for AT to shift to 3rd gear while gear selector is in D per table. PCM controls On/Off state of SS to redirect pressure to/away from the corresponding shift valve (SV) which is spring-loaded mechanical valve, located inside the valve body.

I'd focus on SS A, or SV A. Check SS A fault to know whether it is a electrical/mechanical fault? check for bad o-rings? Was there metal fragments blocking SV movement? fluid pressure not enough to activate SV A? etc.

Check out this YT to see AT internal.

Good luck!

 

View attachment 143678


View attachment 143680

Check out this YT to see AT internal.

Long but interesting video from a transmission guru

 

Hi, need some help, trying to save my father in law's Pilot, and unwilling to give up on it without trying a few things and before spending a lot of money on guesses.

Subject Pilot - Original owner 265K miles on 2004 EXL; original trans, service up to date for the most point.

What began with a shift solenoid code which we cleared with an autozone scan tool and ran for about 500 more miles has now left us with an unclearable shift solenoid code specific to solenoid A and consistent driveability issues and the infamous FLASHING GREEN D (Drive position). Road tested, pilot is down on power and not shifting, but also NOT apparently slipping either. If I shift by column and select it pulls out better and begins in 1st, and will go into second but seems to cease shifting up after that. Its enough to get up to hwy speed but without using the column shifter its limping around like its stuck in 2nd always. Not safe when pulling away, and likely deteriorating what's left of trans.

Tried a better code scanner, my foxwell 510...it confirmed shift solenoid A failure. Using the scanner I also ran some live tests and checked values but don't really know what they mean. Per the advice of the inner-webs I did pull and clean the dual liner solenoid on top of trans, cleaned and reinstalled. NO CHANGE. I did locate the 4 single shift solenoids, with brown and black connectors, 2 under starter and 2 under thermostat outlet radiator hose. Cleaned and bench tested all 4....they all click when cycling with a 12 volt power source, and test with a multi-meter to 16.1 or 16.2 ohm consistently. While they weren't terribly dirty they are clean now and chose to swap the brown for brown locations and black for black locations thinking that if the code switches to solenoid A, B, C or whatever failure then something is wrong with that solenoid despite bench testing good. Connections look good and clean with no corrosion. Live tests with scanner indicate everything is triggering AFAIK.

I have not changed fluid but have a case of honda DW1 coming. Pilot appears to have original inline trans filter which I understand you don't change unless you rebuild. I have not pulled and cleaned the front single solenoid because the scanner did speak to problems there.

Any other ideas, or things I should check before road testing again to see if this issue continues?

I put a nutrual safety switch in found a link that says it tells the computer when to activate the a and b solinoid it is on the outside of the transmission

 

I need a little bit of help here, I have a 2004 honda pilot and I got a code P740 torque converter circuit malfunction, replace the A/T Clutch pressure control solenoid A and B, A/T pressure control solenoid valve c along with torque converter clutch solenoid valve, shift solenoid valve B. so after all that P740 was fixed! yay! after that I got a code 47-01. 2-3 shift malfunction, can someone help me out with that should I replace the remaining solenoid or not. also like a year ago took my honda to a dealership to flush my transmission I don't drive the pilot much but didn't know her past when I got it. so I've put about 200 miles may in a year when I was changing all these parts the fluid was black like oil black and it smelled burn I also got a filter for them to replace and the filter looks old. so needless to say ill be changing my transmission oil again, but these are the parts.