NavTool will not work for you.

Are you SURE you got a premium system? (The one with 10 speakers and a separate amplifier box)? If you don't have Nav or RES, I am about 99% sure you got a regular 7-speaker setup where
head unit is the amp.

Your options:
1. Use this bracket kit to install a single DIN system with a floating screen, such as Aline Halo9 or Sony XAV-X8000

Amazon.com: Compatible with Honda Pilot 2009 2010 2011 Single DIN Stereo Harness Radio Install Dash Kit Package: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Compatible with Honda Pilot 2009 2010 2011 Single DIN Stereo Harness Radio Install Dash Kit Package: Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

2. Get the bracket kit from option 1 and mutilate it a bit, so you can squeeze in a double DIN system. It can be a regular 7" screen, or you can get something with larger floating screen, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XQ5VVSG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1

Note that if you get a larger screen, it should hide the fact that your dash and your head unit are not exactly a match.
Frankly, I would rather go for option 1 cause you would be getting a more reputable brand.

3. Get one of those 'vehicle specific' Android units.

Aftermarket Navigation Radio For Honda Pilot 2009-2013

Honda Pilot Aftermarket Navigation Car Stereo has a 7 inch touch screen, it comes with refitting frame which matches original dashboard perfectly. It is designed to replace stock radio system(non-navi), totally plug and play, no gap installation, no need cut wires, free gps navigation map preloaded.

www.carnaviplayer.com

If you want to keep using stock speakers, you need to get a small subwoofer amp like this:

Amazon.com: Nobsound NS-03G Subwoofer Amplifier 100W Mini Sub Power Amp (Black): Electronics

Buy Nobsound NS-03G Subwoofer Amplifier 100W Mini Sub Power Amp (Black): Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Or you can upgrade your sub to something better, in which case you have to get a better amp.
I put 70W Focal 2-way speakers in my doors and an 8" shallow mount 300W Kicker in place of the horrid 50W OEM 'sub'. All of it powered by RockFord Fosgate R600X5 amp. Sounds awesome.

If you want to install rear camera, you will need to run its wires from your tailgate to the dash.

If you want full steering wheel control, I recommend Maestro. This is where option 1 shines most - Maestro has good support from prime head unit brands such as Alpine, Pioneer, Sony. You can go for the 'SW' cheaper unit which only gets you steering wheel controls. Or you can go for an 'RR' model which plugs into your ODBC2 port and your head unit iDataLink port. Then you can have access to various engine stats via head unit. Unfortunately, Honda does not support climate controls via iDataLink.

 

NavTool will not work for you.

Are you SURE you got a premium system? (The one with 10 speakers and a separate amplifier box)? If you don't have Nav or RES, I am about 99% sure you got a regular 7-speaker setup where
head unit is the amp.

Yes, I believe so. I have the EX-L with RES (is this available as non premium?). I have the Pop down DVD screen in the headliner just in front of the rear seats. There are audio controls and inputs available for rear seat passengers on the back side of the center console.

 

2014 Pilot EX-L (no NAV/RES)
I'm just using an iPad mini (no 3.5mm jack). To mount it I created a wood piece with a shallow channel (router) to secure the bottom of my iPad and 2 rare earth magnets on to hold the top (using double stick tape and an angle bracket). I put a piece of metal between the case and the iPad. I'm running audio to the Pilot "aux jack" so I don't have a Bluetooth battle between my phone and the iPad. To get audio to the 3.5mm jack I purchased an Apple dock for $15 (ebay) and mounted behind the glove box (it's black and hold in place with a small piece of wood for the time - there was a small level piece of plastic there near the center of the Pilot for the dock to rest on). The dock has 3.5mm output. To get power/audio from the iPad to the dock I had to purchase a Lightning extension cable (connects the iPad to the "top" of the dock). The dock uses a regular Lightning cable and 3.5mm. I've had it mounted this way for ~2 years (just added the dock option about a month ago). Very secure, allows easy access to the camera and for tilting the iPad down when parked (or to remove if concerned about theft.

Hope this helps someone with their mounting solution.

Parts:
Ematetek Extender Connector Cord Pass Video Audio Data and Charging - $9 (ebay)
iPad Dock - $15 (ebay)
other cords - normal Lightning cable (had), 3.5mm male-to-male stereo cable (had)

Dock mounted behind glove box.

Dock behind the glove box.

iPad mini with small wood "holder" on the bottom.

side shot - 1 cable for power/audio is snaked under the top center dash piece.

Chip on the screen protector was PRIOR to using the magnets (prior "design" which failed in which it fall off).

Rare earth magnets provide plenty of holding power. Haven't gotten around to blacking out the metal (doesn't bother me ).

DIY wood bottom mounting channel. Held in place by double stick tape (hallowed out a shallow channel on the bottom for the tape to be slightly recessed so the wood would be flush on the bottom).

 

2014 Pilot EX-L (no NAV/RES)
I'm just using an iPad mini (no 3.5mm jack). To mount it I created a wood piece with a shallow channel (router) to secure the bottom of my iPad and 2 rare earth magnets on to hold the top (using double stick tape and an angle bracket). I put a piece of metal between the case and the iPad. I'm running audio to the Pilot "aux jack" so I don't have a Bluetooth battle between my phone and the iPad. To get audio to the 3.5mm jack I purchased an Apple dock for $15 (ebay) and mounted behind the glove box (it's black and hold in place with a small piece of wood for the time - there was a small level piece of plastic there near the center of the Pilot for the dock to rest on). The dock has 3.5mm output. To get power/audio from the iPad to the dock I had to purchase a Lightning extension cable (connects the iPad to the "top" of the dock). The dock uses a regular Lightning cable and 3.5mm. I've had it mounted this way for ~2 years (just added the dock option about a month ago). Very secure, allows easy access to the camera and for tilting the iPad down when parked (or to remove if concerned about theft.

Hope this helps someone with their mounting solution.

Parts:
Ematetek Extender Connector Cord Pass Video Audio Data and Charging - $9 (ebay)
iPad Dock - $15 (ebay)
other cords - normal Lightning cable (had), 3.5mm male-to-male stereo cable (had)

are you connecting the ipad to the internet? If so how? I have tried a wifi only ipad mini connected to my phones hotspot but using maps for navigation was a no go

 

FWIW, after my initial foray into attempting to cut slots into the center dash vent covers (left and right), which I did accomplish but I wouldn't recommend it to others, I decided to try a magnet secured to the mostly flat (but slightly rounded left to right) 1" lip at the top of the radio. This setup, thus far, is working perfect to secure the tablet in that location.

Here is the final solution for me in terms of optimal mounting for a Nexus 7 tablet running Carplay:

And here is the magnet mount I'm using:

 

Unfortunately the bulk of that thread was in 2004. I was able to find a 2010 Pilot Service Manual on a mediafire server link. Here is the diagram showing the "Front Accessory Power Socket" relay:

So, once I have daylight in the morning, I'm going to check that out and see what I can figure from it and comparing it to the Honda Odyssey video.

 

Hello, yes. I've just received a 10000mAh power bank and a step down DC buck converter I'm going to try out. The power bank is on charge and I'm hoping to test it out once its fully charged.

 

Something like this is the only way I know of at this time. How To Add Wireless CarPlay To Any Car With A Cheap Android Tablet + Adapter [Video] or this Here's CarPlay For Any Car | ceoutlook.com

Or you can replace your head unit with an after market unit.

 

I have been looking into it for my 2009 EX-L. Best options I have found are below. These fit into existing space without any modification to surrounding trim. I'm not interested in one that requires mods. These all have floating screens. Can get spendy.

Pioneer DMH-WC6600NEX, DMH-WT7600NEX, DMH-WT8600NEX
Alpine ILX-F259, ILX-F309
Sony XAV-X8000

there are some others. A few off-brands direct from china that are a little less, but not sure I'm comfortable with those for warranty reasons

 

Thanks guys, for the information. @Daltongang, on that $150 option, does it just use the car's audio input jack? And it comes on automatically when the car is started or do you have to turn it on and off?

 

after reading the info on the link he provided it's definitely not plug and play. I considered this option but just seems too clunky to use as a daily solution. Plus I'd have to get a tablet and figure out where to mount it...probably better suited for a car already running Android with a decent size screen

 

Actually, I'm pretty intrigued with the option of Android + a wireless carplay adapter. If it can be set up so that its pretty much plug and play (after the initial install and setup), for around $100 bucks, I'm in. I can get a used Fire 8 tablet for about $40 bucks on my local Facebook marketplace, and I'm seeing wireless carplay adapters starting at $60-80 bucks.

My only question is how and where to mount the tablet. Perhaps there is a mount option that takes advantage of one of the CD or DVD slots?

 

HONDA PILOT 2009-2011 NAVIGATION VIDEO INTERFACE with BUILT-IN HD SMARTPHONE MIRRORING via HDMI

This interface lets you add Smartphone Mirroring/Projection & Apple CarPlay, DVD, Back-Up Rear View Camera, Front View Camera, Left and Right Lane Watch Cameras or any other video source to your factory screen.

www.navtool.com

 

I don't have the Nav screen so will this still work? Here is my radio config >>>

 

@scorrpio, thanks VERY much for the help! That was exactly what I was looking for.

I'm still very tempted just to try the Android/Fire Tablet method to start and see what I can do for cheap without pulling the head unit. My only question is how/where to mount the Fire tablet and how it gets its power. Perhaps just via USB I suppose, then running the 3.5mm Audio into the car, I use the full sound system and existing steering wheel control as is.

If I don't like it, I can always spring for a head unit replacement but by that time, I'll probably get a newer SUV.

 

An update. Much progress!

OK, I picked up an 8" Fire HD tablet as well as a 7" Google Nexus (Nexus 7 Gen 2) as test platforms for my "Affordable Carplay" experiment.

I like the way the Nexus 7 looks a bit better so I'm working with that - and most importantly, its a near exact perfect fit in the upper center dash area wedged between the top and bottom of that open area.

I also picked up a "Wireless Carplay Adapter" dongle from Amazon by Carlinkit. This is the key to the system. For about $80 bucks, it gives you wireless carplay to virtually any device that runs Android. Both the Fire HD 8 and the Nexus 7 fit the bill in this regard.

Here here some picks of the work in progress:

The good news is I have Carplay running for around $120 ($80 for the wireless adapter, $40 for the tablet off Ebay).

Now, the next set of tasks I have are:

(1) Find a way to secure the tablet into position in the upper center console area (as it appears in the first couple of pics above). Currently I just have it wedged in there and it appears that its about the right size that it will stay put. I'm going to go for a drive later to confirm. I may need to fabricate a rubber foot for it to slide into there.

2) Now that I have a location for the tablet, I'll need to power it, Ideally by installing a factory look USB port inside that upper display area where the tablet is, I could then plug in the power behind the tablet and it would look clean and hide the wires. Any ideas?

I'm looking to tap power somewhere in that area, and install a double USB port there. Alternately, I could maybe run a USB from the cigarette lighter adapter and snake the cord up under the dash somehow, perhaps in the meantime.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have to complete this project.

 

An update. Much progress!

looks great. How are you getting audio? Aux? Bluetooth? If bluetooth is it connected via phone or tablet? Its the one part that has me puzzled. Not sure i like the idea of multiple wires for power and sound on the dash

 

Currently I have a thin, flexible, long analog audio cable running from the tablet under the dash and into the center console audio input. Bluetooth would be cleaner but perhaps at the expense of some audio quality. I don't like the idea of "wires" at all, but the tablet has to be connected to power if its going to be permanently attached to the car. I'll be hiding those cords so I'll probably be the only one even knows they are there.

The only concern I have is losing sightlines to the info display for temperature and volume. i suppose I should be able to connect to the ODB and have an app on the tablet that would overlay the carplay on demand (or maybe via a "Hey Google" call) to show that information on the tablet.

 

Since the carplay adapter is the "wireless" version (costs about $30 more than the "wired" version), the iPhone does not have to leave your pocket if you don't want it to. You can get in the car, start it up, and the tablet connects to your phone automatically and starts playing where it left off.

The car does not have bluetooth, so to run wireless audio from the tablet (or the phone itself) to the audio system, I'd have to add a bluetooth interface/adapter to the audio input or to the head unit somehow. Open to suggestions there as well as if there exists a USB socket that can replace the 12 volt lighter socket next to the glovebox. I'd reroute that behind the dash and up to where the tablet is for a cleaner power source tap.

 

i added bluetooth to my EX-L. I assume i can use it in a similar set up as you just not sure which device i would connect. for instance when i get a call, is the audio being generated by the ipad or the iphone?

 

Update: My "affordable carplay" project is coming right along. I've now found where I'm going to mount the Nexus tablet and I currently have it dry fit and it won't budge after several trips over the bumpy pothole filled roads left over from our neighborhood's gas pipeline project (that's another story).

Here are a few pics of the tablet wedged between the two dash cover plates on either side of the radio. As soon as I mark lines and cut out the space where the tablet corners will fit in behind the cover plates, I'll have my custom mount complete:

Pic below shows detail of how the tablet will be held in place once I cut the recess slots out of the dashboard covers (currently ajar). I've been driving this way all day with no movement of the tablet:

The USB cable is hidden behind the right dashboard cover plate. I've removed the lighter socket (the one to the right of the radio behind the little latched door) and dropped it behind that cover plate, connected a dual port USB adapter to it and connected my USB power cable and the Carlinkit wireless carplay adapter dongle. All of that is neatly hidden away behind that cover plate. The audio cable is routed the same but behind the left cover plate.

 

Funetn, that's a cool setup. Couple questions:

• Is your Ipad running carplay from your iPhone? I don't think that's possible, but had to ask
• Where are you tapping power for your breakout box? That's task #1 for me at this point. i need to tap constant 12v source to keep my carplay adapter dongle from crashing everytime I shut the engine off and lose the accessory sourced power from the cigarette lighter socket.

 

Thanks for the compliment.
1) unfortunately not running CarPlay - no intention to hijack this thread. It's just regular icons. I don't have the desire to Jailbreak to get CarPlay but I wish (not holding my breath) for Apple to make CarPlay UI on iPads. You can google "CarPlay jailbreak iPad" for how to install an app on a jailbreak Apple device. I'm happy with the iOS icons (for now).
2) I'm tapping power from the fusebox using a tap like this. I'm able to keep the original circuit at the proper amp but then I have my tapped wire going into a cigarette plug (like $7 from O'Reily's auto parts) where I have my Lightning cable plugged in - all tucked up behind the dash. It's tapped into a fuse that's only on in the accessory or running position. For constant power I'd think you could tap into a fuse that always has power. but not sure if cranking the engine is disruptive - might be...in that case running to the batter might be 1 option.

Fuse tap (Ebay - for like 10 for CHEAP!)

I cut off the one to use for my iPad - plugged in a USB adapter. I wanted to minimize any mods to the wiring of my Pilot.

 

For tapping constant 12v power source, this guy has a super simple solution for a 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey:

Converts all the cigarette lighter adapter to constant power source simply by jumping the relays that control those circuits. It would be PERFECT if Honda Pilot has the same relay for the front lighter socket, but after looking at the two fuseboxes (maybe there is another location for this fuse relay station), I only see two relays at the fusebox on the left side driver footwell. One is marked Fuel Pump and the other is marked ST CUT. I don't believe I'm messing with either. Anyone have any insights on where these relays may be located in the Pilot?

 

For tapping constant 12v power source, this guy has a super simply solution for a 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey:

Converts all the cigarette lighter adapter to constant power source simply by jumping the relays that control those circuits. It would be PERFECT if Honda Pilot has the same relay for the front lighter socket, but after looking at the two fuseboxes (maybe there is another location for this fuse relay station), I only see two relays at the fusebox on the left side driver footwell. One is marked Fuel Pump and the other is marked ST CUT. I don't believe I'm messing with either. Anyone have any insights on where these relays may be located in the Pilot?

12 volt outlet hot all the time?

I'd sure like to have one of the cigarette lighter outlets (is that what they're called now?) hot even when the ignition is off. Lots of times I'll charge my cell phone in the car and I'm in and out. Sometimes I'd like to leave it charging when I run into a store for 10 minutes... but since...

www.piloteers.org

 

Regarding "constant" power ... if tapping into the Honda wiring isn't working for you and you want to minimize drain on your battery you might want to consider that I'd a cheap setup which involves buying a "pass-thru" battery pack (Anker is one possible manufacture of such). It allows you to draw power off the battery pack while it charges at the same time. So you'd plug the battery pack into a circuit that is active when the Pilot is on/running, but when it's off the battery pack keeps your devices running. When the battery pack runs out of juice it's dead...but your Pilot battery isn't.

Most USB battery packs DON'T have pass-thru charging so make sure it states it has this capability. It would also act as a surge protector to your device as the cranking of the engine won't pull any power from the battery pack.

Also if you wish to incorporate a "timer" for how long your device will keep drawing power I would suggest looking into this very versatile time. URL is in the picture. So you can have it turn off power after x seconds/days/weeks/months so you don't kill your battery.

 

Regarding "constant" power ... if tapping into the Honda wiring isn't working for you and you want to minimize drain on your battery you might want to consider that I'd a cheap setup which involves buying a "pass-thru" battery pack (Anker is one possible manufacture of such). It allows you to draw power off the battery pack while it charges at the same time. So you'd plug the battery pack into a circuit that is active when the Pilot is on/running, but when it's off the battery pack keeps your devices running. When the battery pack runs out of juice it's dead...but your Pilot battery isn't.

Most USB battery packs DON'T have pass-thru charging so make sure it states it has this capability. It would also act as a surge protector to your device as the cranking of the engine won't pull any power from the battery pack.

That's an excellent idea. I was thinking similar earlier today. Do you have a link to the Anker one by chance? Searching Amazon, I'm not seeing anything that specifically says it supports "pass thru" charging

 

@funetn how are you connecting your ipad to the internet? Great setup. Very impressed!

 

my iPad has a data plan - so no tethering from my phone. The tethering worked with a previous iPad that didn’t have cellular but since Apple doesn’t put in GPS hardware in just their WiFi iPads it made the navigation guidance less that real-time.

 

@vestaviascott - found this one (of many) on Amazon in which folks in the Q&A section (when I search for "passthrough") confirmed it has that functionality.

RAVPower Power Bank

BTW - nice job on your mount as well. Neat to see the creativity of different mounting solutions. Good luck with your quest for a power solution.

 

Update: Some DIScouraging test results when using the portable power option in a vehicle.

So, the Jackery device DOES work to charge the Nexus and simultaneously provide power to the OTG connected device (my Carplay wireless dongle). However, there are two issues I've encountered, one a showstopper.

First, the charger is apparently not strong enough to do any more than maintain or slightly lose the charge on the Nexus. I started out at 13% battery on the Nexus when I started the test drive and at the end of the drive I was at 12%.

Second and this is the showstopper, the act of cutting off the ignition (and cutting it on), temporarily disrupts the Jackery just long enough to cause the OTG device to lose power. This is what I'm trying to avoid to keep from having to constantly restart my tablet in order to get the OTG device to reboot/reset itself after power interuption.

So, I'm back to square one, of needing a constant source of uninterrupted power for the Nexus and the Carplay dongle. I suppose its possible that the Jackery's internal power circuitry is just not sufficient for this task and perhaps another similar device may be able to switch from charge mode to battery mode faster and not cause the OTG device to lose power, but I'm not certain.

Also, its not certain if, with a constant 12 volt source not directly connected to the battery, that the ignition start/stop does not interrupt power for a split second either. Long enough to cause the OTG device to lose power. So, I'll have to test that and ultimately I may be forced to tap the battery directly to insure I don't lose power when stopping and starting the engine.

 

well bummer. If you do tap directly to your battery you might want to consider the timer switch I posted above to prevent unintended battery drain. I did post another company above with passthrough, but that brand might also behave the same way.

I'm not familiar enough to provide a solution but maybe some capacitors between the car power source and the Jackery (the RAVPower, mentioned above have some significant amp devices) to level out drops in voltage for a few seconds. I have no clue how to calculate the size of caps necessary but it would be a possible option. Heck some company out there might already have something to prevent voltage drops to USB (the Jackery in this case). Just thinking this evening.

This person has the same idea (solution) - YouTube Voltage Drop Prevention

This thread also discusses what you are trying to do (for gauges vs. Carputer) - Voltage Drop Prevention Discussion

Hopefully I'm not violating this blogs policies with posting URLs - just trying to help you find a solution.

Best luck on your quest for a solution.

 

Hey Vestaviascott - any progress? Would any of these products provide a solution for your Carputer?

OpenUPS2

I continue to follow this discussion and will provide feedback per my brain's ability

 

Hey Vestaviascott - any progress with the power solution? Would any of these products provide a solution for your Carputer?

OpenUPS2

I continue to follow this discussion and will provide feedback per my brain's ability

 

Hi...any progress with your project? Amazon Fire 8 HD are on sale for $49. Thinking about pulling the trigger