Oil should not be in the intake and the only way it can is through the PCV line as far as I know. Oil vapours carry over and condense when they hit the cooler air in the manifold. This will cause carbon buildup on the intake valves. Might be time for a PCV catch can or a switch to a less volatile engine oil.

 

Yeah that’s what I thought. I had an Audi I had to install a catch can. But that one Ended Up having bad piston rings. I hope this is not the case.
I’m in the process of figuring out my VCM disabler and keep finding new issues.
now my coolant keeps disappearing as well with no obvious leaks anywhere.
I have no clue what’s going on with this lemon.

 

First replace the PVC valve and clean the intake manifold. Drive it a couple of days and check it. No oil problem solved. Block PVC replaced.

If you do have oil then you probably have a blocked oil passage. That potentially can be a more serious problem. You can do an oil flush to try and open the passage. Follow the instructions on the oil flush product you choose.

If this does not solve the problem it may be mechanic time either at a trusted mechanic or yourself if you feel confident to do the work.

A small film of oil in the intake manifold is not much of an issue, but a puddle is another more serious matter.

 

Yeap. Sounds like a plan. Ill start with the pcv valve and see what happens.
thanks for the advice ya’ll.

 

You are using a VCM disabler?
It can be difficult to know its working on a 3rd Gen. By your scanner you can see if your engine temp defaulted. (You probably know this.)
I'd also clean the (MAF) with some CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner and make sure my intake tube is clamped on tight with no leaks. (You may know this too.)

 

You are using a VCM disabler?
It can be difficult to know its working on a 3rd Gen. By your scanner you can see if your engine temp defaulted. (You probably know this.)
I'd also clean the (MAF) with some CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner and make sure my intake tube is clamped on tight with no leaks. (You may know this too.)

Thanks for the info, I still haven't installed the vcm disabler yet. I didn't clean the maf sensor but I will do that. I checked the intake hose like u suggested. Couldn't see anything out of the normal.only thing is the clamp is pretty loose. I can squeeze it with my fingers. Ill probably replace it just in case.

 

What about cleaning the throttle body.

 

Oil can get into the intake manifold due to:

-excessive blow-by (worn rings) forces too much oil vapor past the PCV
-oil level too high in crankcase, oil froth generated, goes thru PCV
-air cleaner is clogged, so excess vacuum is applied to PCV line
-high heat/high rev driving generates more oil vapor
-fuel contamination of crankcase oil creates gas/oil vapor which condenses in manifold.
-PCV stuck open, allows too much crankcase vapor into manifold

IMHO, avoid using crankcase flush products. A regular oil change is all the flush that you need. Just my 2$ worth. (Inflation has made 2 cents worth passe'.)

 

But how will that clear a blocked oil passage? Theres only two ways I know of. 1 a oil system flush product and 2 tear it down and clean it.

 

There are oil passages in the engine to distribute oil throughout the engine, including things like the cams, lifters etc. If one or some of those passages get blocked the internal pressure will vent through the PVC in and into the intake manifold. If it gets too bad you are looking at a worn cam(s) lifters etc and doing a complete head job at the least.

 

I'm still confused with this explanation. In every engine that I have torn down, the oil pump drives the oil thru the filter to feed the galleys and passages to feed the main bearings, rod bearings, lifters, cam bearings, and rocker arms. Some engines also have oil squirters to splash the cylinder walls as well. All the oil that flows from these pressurized systems falls back into the sump, to be picked up by the pump, repressurized, refiltered, and goes to lube everything again.

The PCV valve allows crankcase vapors to be drawn into the intake manifold and burned in the combustion chamber. It has nothing to do with pressurized engine oil passages.

In today's modern engines with high quality detergent oil, the oil passages just don't get blocked, unless the car has been sitting in a vacant lot for a few years. If your Honda J35 engine actually had a blocked oil passage, you are probably looking at a new or rebuilt engine. Change your oil and filter regularly to avoid these problems. It just doesn't happen if you give the engine proper regular maintenance. And it has nothing to do with the PCV valve.

 

YES it vents crankcase vapors. Rusty oil and sludge will accumulate in your oil passage once you fail to change the engine oil. If the oil cannot easily pass over the passage or the passage has been extremely blocked, then the oil will go over your PCV valve. Eventually, the oil will go to the air intake manifold.

If you never change the oil in your car, it will collect sludge and deposits and leave them in the oil passage. When oil cannot pass freely through the passage, it gathers inside the top of the cylinder head.

Oil in Intake Manifold, Causes and Fixes

intake manifold requires frequent cleaning and inspection. here I would like to say something about oil in the intake manifold and how to get rid of it.

curateview.com

When the passage is totally blocked, the oil will go through the PCV valve and enter the air intake manifold. What you have to do to get rid of this problem is to pour an engine flush formula into the oil and run the engine for a few times. When the buildup is cleared, change the engine oil and don’t forget to replace the air filter. If it does not solve the issue, take the help of a professional mechanic.

Oil in Intake Manifold: The Reasons and Consequences

It is bad news when there is oil in intake manifold. Why does this happen and what problem can it lead to? Let’s find out now with Car From Japan!

carfromjapan.com

Blocked oil passages – This is also one of the most common reasons for oil in the intake manifold. When the normal passages for the oil become blocked, the oil redirects and flows through the positive crankcase valve hose into the intake manifold.

Oil in Intake Manifold (Causes, Symptoms and Fixes) - Motorsrun

The air/fuel flows into the intake manifold are the lungs of internal combustion engine design. When the intake is not ideal, problems arise that must be attended to. Most issues that detract from the vehicle performance are involved with the intake system or the fuel system. Oil in the intake...

motorsrun.com

#Clogged Oil passage
Sludge and rusty oil will be deposited in the oil passage if you don’t change your engine oil in time. When oil can’t pass through the passage freely, or the passage is fully blocked, the oil goes through the PVC valve and the oil goes to the air intake manifold at last.

Reasons and Solutions for Oil in Intake Manifold | Automobile XYZ

The engine is one of the most important parts of any vehicle Except an Electric Vehicle. Each vehicle has an intake and exhaust manifold. Intake…

www.automobilexyz.com

 

What the heck are you smoking? You can spin it a million times to Sunday, but the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system is not connected to the pressurized oil lubrication system of your engine! I'm not trying to flame you, buddy, but you are just full of sh*t.

 

Alright, Gentlemen! I didn’t mean to start here a huge debate about the pcv and the oil system. There is plenty other things to argue about out there, specially in this day in age.
I think we are all on the same page that oil shouldn’t be on my intake manifold.

daltongang I appreciate the info, as I still have to figure out how the oil is getting there.
and you being one of the top contributors on this site, I will definite considerate your suggestions.

stmech, I agree with the fact that both pcv and oil systems should not be connected.
which is why I’m concerned that my issue is probably is looking like worn out piston rings.

anyways after work today I stopped at the dealer and bought a new pcv valve. I’ll clean the maf sensor and will install a new clamp for my pcv hose per nailgrease’s suggestion. Arb1977 also suggested cleaning the throttle body. I tried that already.

I have no idea what oil the previous owner was using so I’ll just change it myself.

thanks y’all for your input and suggestions. I’ll report back after driving for a few miles
we’ll see.

 

If you are still having issues after changing out the pcv valve and oil, a compression test would be a good check to see if you have any blow by.

 

Thanks Hondamon, will do.

 

I never pushed post.
But my odyssey burns oil especially idling at 3000 rpms. It had a blown head gasket so I tore it down and replaced both first. I noticed bank 1 exhaust valves covered in burnt oil but cleaned them and left the guides alone but replaced the seals. the valves had double deviation as the intakes and had suction when I removed them. after putting it back together I have gotten a light p0420 code, monitors purge solenoid and catalyst won't ready. found oil in the intake so installed an oil catch can but that didnt help. My compression sounds even when I dry start it but process of elimination leaves piston rings left on my list. however I am also getting a code p2647 for vcm solenoid stuck on now and going into limp mode. I was wondering if my oil pressure relief valve has maybe failed and over pressurizing the system.
also I wanted to initially post finding coolant in my reburn and valve covers and that it was coming from a failed seal on the idle air control valve on the throttle body. I looped the lines back into themselves and eliminated the prewarm system.

 

I never pushed post.
But my odyssey burns oil especially idling at 3000 rpms. It had a blown head gasket so I tore it down and replaced both first. I noticed bank 1 exhaust valves covered in burnt oil but cleaned them and left the guides alone but replaced the seals. the valves had double deviation as the intakes and had suction when I removed them. after putting it back together I have gotten a light p0420 code, monitors purge solenoid and catalyst won't ready. found oil in the intake so installed an oil catch can but that didnt help. My compression sounds even when I dry start it but process of elimination leaves piston rings left on my list. however I am also getting a code p2647 for vcm solenoid stuck on now and going into limp mode. I was wondering if my oil pressure relief valve has maybe failed and over pressurizing the system.
also I wanted to initially post finding coolant in my reburn and valve covers and that it was coming from a failed seal on the idle air control valve on the throttle body. I looped the lines back into themselves and eliminated the prewarm system.

I'd take care of the p2647 code. But with all the cleaning you did, the screen filter may have clogged in the vtec assembly

 

I replaced the piston rings, its recommended to replace connecting rod bearings after loosening them. Was time consuming but fairly easy job.
However I do not recommend replacing the valve guides. This was not an easy job and I'm glad I flipped the head and pushed them out of the top. I did end up with 1 small crack but it wasn't on the valve seat because I pushed from the cylinder side out and the engine ran fine. note keep the new valve seats in the freezer and they go in better.
My oil code was caused from a cheap oil filter. it got plugged up. I replaced it with a high flow Fram and code went away.
Yes burning oil can affect your fuel trim readings because its a hydro carbon and after awhile it plugs up your o2s from reading oxygen.
I am very against the vcm muzzlers for a few reasons.1st when you do emissions for the state you are tested and trained on finding after market changes to the systems. The state will put these kind of things onto their cars and try to catch shops. 2nd when you put a resistor on your coolant temp sensor you are tricking your computer into thinking the coolant is at a lower and safer temp. The coolant temp sensor is used to check other temp sensors for redundancy and wear so the computer can adjust its algorithm as the vehicle ages. The coolant sensor is used to check the state of the engine and affects open and closed loop and on your dream and newer systems they now have a partially closed loop operation (open/closed loop is for running checks after a cold start and running the engine a little richer until it fully warms up. It has other affects as well). The coolant temp is used to help prevent detonation or knock, and some monitors will not set until a certain range of temps is met from the coolant sensor to complete system checks. What I found in my J35 Honda engine was very tiny oil galleys on the piston plugged up with burnt oil. And if you cannot see your engine getting hot then neither can your PCM and it wont engage the coolant fans or cut back fuel properly.
There are also a dozen other things affected depending on the vehicle now days. That being said the EPA has a huge emissions book with a large chapter dedicated to acceptations and its probably safe to say if the manufacturer came up with a programming or vcm muzzler then there is an acceptation for it in that book.
Other concerns I found with the J35; the vcm rocker bridge and rockers wear causing excessive oil in the #1 cylinder head which is also tilted back and drowns the valves in oil. It also vapors oil through the reburn tube and gunks up the throttlebody. I put an oil catch inline from the bank 1 valve cover reburn hose to the air intake tube. Also if you look inside of the intake manifold, remove the 2 bolts and rectangle piece of metal. That is a breather from the bottom of the crank case (oil pan) to the manifold for venting pressure and it allows oil vapors in and to gunk everything up. I sandwiched some steel wool under the rectangle piece and bolted it back in. Last I found coolant inside my valve covers. I finally figured out there is a throttle body warm up system where coolant runs to the throttle body. when the IAC seal fails it leaks into the valve covers through an air tube. You can delete the system by looping the coolant back to the coolant and the valve cover tube back to the valve cover or replace the whole throttle body and its not cheap.
good luck.

 

I am very against the vcm muzzlers for a few reasons.

I read the statements you made about VCM disabling devices. My engine warms with an elevated idle and settles down normally as always. I'm not having engine knock problems. Most of us have noticed a loss of a mile per gallon of fuel. I'll accept that loss over the return of dirty combustion chambers, valves and injectors, fouled spark plugs, misfires, emission codes and stuck piston rings.
I have not heard of anyone not passing inspection for having equipped a VCM disabling device.

 

The VCM muzzler was on my car already when I bought it along with the oil issues. The PCM is designed to cut out the coolant temp sensor data if it believes it to be inaccurate (10 degrees difference from other temp sensors). dogs can run on three legs just fine. plus we have oil temp, ambient temp and trans temp. Your engine RPMs most likely rise from the oil pressure as it heats up and other load sensor datas, like map, mass, baro and throttle position. takes about 8-10 minutes for cats to reach operating temps and closed loop to set but each system is different. Like I said if the manufacture came up with a muzzler then it probably has an exemption from the EPA. Your other sensors will tell the engine when its running hot but not as quick as if the coolant data was being read. And I'm one of those people that rely on my dash temp gauge unless I know it to not be accurate.

 

Screen on vvt valve body gasket seal clogged mine was totally caked

 

Might start a new thread if you want to talk about it. Is your Pilot a 3rd gen?