Just do the maintenance indicated by the codes as they appear.

 

Well it seems the oil minder is about 10k miles. Some people feel more comfortable with 5k. So they’ll change it themselves at that point. Then have the dealer do the free one at 10k.

 

Best advice I can give you.
1) if you are leasing, you need to be warranty compliant. Strictly follow the Honda guidelines outlined in the manual, so you are compliant. Less duration/Distance is MORE.
2) Manufacturers are self-interested in marketing their product as having low maintenance costs and ensuring vehicle use does not trigger warranty claims and additional out of pocket costs DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD. They have a huge sample size and lots of data to dial in the required maintenance items and required duration. Following their recommendations will generally get you through the maintenance period. After that, all costs are on your dime.
3) If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time, watch a few of these videos:

,

,

. There are a lot more. Don't forget to undercoat that expensive depreciating asset with a Lanolin based undercoating. Do it early in the vehicle life. I drove mine from the dealership to the undercoating shop. It had 12 Kilometers on it. Watch videos from the Repair Geek.

4) Basically, change your motor oil at 5k or 6months with a FILTER each time. Don't forget to take care of that very expensive transmission, differentials, transfer cases. Remember coolant does not last forever and also needs to be changed on a regular basis. If you tow or drive on dusty roads, decrease the fluid change interval with all associated filters.

My 2 cents for the day.

 

That 15% mark for the free oil and filter change will be around 7500 to 8000 miles.

 

My understanding is the Owner can dictate when they want the oil changed. It's your vehicle. The tail doesn't wag the dog. On engine break-in, you want all the metal out as soon as possible. Just creates more wear and tear on the engine, just like the idle stop but worse.

 

I'm the household mechanic for a fleet of three Hondas: 2018 CRV, 2024 CRV, 2024 Pilot. I just do everything by the maintenance minder. I usually do oil changes as soon as the code appears, at 15% instead of waiting for the oil life to get to 0%.

The mileage for the oil change code (and all other codes) will vary based on driving style and many other factors, so there isn't a direct answer to your question.

 

I got the "A16" code at 5,300 miles. They changed the oil and diff fluid (I have the service package). The oil life was above 15% but they decided to do it anyway. OK with me.

 

There is no real standard "mileage" for Honda service any longer, it seems to be dealer specific. Go to 5 dealer websites and you'll get at least 3 different sets of mileage parameters. Best bet is just go by the Mileage Minder as that will keep your vehicle within warranty. On my 2021 Pilot the service between MM oil and filter changes is between 10-12k, which with the quality of oil today is reasonable. There are some things I would suggest doing early though, like 1st transmission service (MM #3), which on my Pilot showed up at 52k, but I did at 42k, and probably should have done at 35K.

AND, while it is possible to stay within warranty and still DIY, you need to keep very good records. If you do make sure you save the receipts for the oil and filters. and anything else you change, like air filters. And a picture of you doing the change might not hurt, seriously.

On the other hand, I have been a DIY guy a long time, but when we bought our first Pilot in 2006 I almost never touched a thing and let the dealer handle it. I'm doing the same with my 2021 EX-L. Expensive yes, but not having to worry about it is worth it, especially since we have a 100K extended warranty.

 

you do make sure you save the receipts for the oil and filters. and anything else you change

Another question raised is if using after market oil/ filter will void warranty? Like Mobil 1, Wix?

 

I recently purchased a 24 pilot and it seemed strange that diff fluid might need be change every 15 to 20k according to service guy. I said that seems really excessive and a $$$ maker for service department.

 

It doesn't. It gets changed the first time at 12K +/- as the differential is meshing all new parts. Changing the fluid removes the particles from the mating process, which can cause friction that will degrade the fluid. After that the differential changes are around 30K +/-. It will to to the closest oil change recommendation for both.

 

The so called "standard" mileage for Honda's these days are when the MM tells you it is time. The vehicle with all of its sensors have a better understanding of how the vehicle is being used and how various things like the state of the life of the oil, than the drivers/owners do. There are numerous reported Honda vehicles with on 1million miles on the odometer and all that was done was the called for maintenance per the MM.

The trick is do the called for Maintenance ON TIME - EVERY TIME with out fail and with products that meet or exceed the specifications for the product.

 

10 4 on the 12k. I might do diff change the 1st time it "needs" to be done but not every 30. Like I said excessive ($) I driven multiple vehicles with high mileage and never messed with diff fluid earlier than 80 to 100k. Also I need to look at the transmission flush. I was always told not do the flush bc it make things worse with gaskets and the lubricats or good gunk that was naturally formed in the transmissions.

 

Keep in mind, the Honda AWD rear differential is different from a standard AWD system because it's designed to engage almost instantly when needed, due to its multi-plate clutch system, essentially acting as a "smart" differential that seamlessly transitions from front-wheel drive to all-wheel drive when traction loss is detected, unlike many other AWD systems which might experience a noticeable lag in engagement; this feature is often referred to as "Real Time AWD with Intelligent Control System" on Honda vehicles.

This isn't your daddies old Rear Differential.

 

I acknowledge that I read your reply.

 

As others have said, just change fluids according to the MM, including rear differential. Honda wants the first change done early, and the code should appear with the first oil change. Yes, the fluid should be replaced at this time...
Moving forward, the interval for the rear differential will be longer, around 30-50K miles. This may also apply to transmission fluid. Honda shortens the first transmission service in CVT equipped vehicles.

For background, I own a 2018 CRV AWD, 2024 CRV AWD, 2024 PILOT AWD, and recently sold a 2018 Odyssey.

 

This is my maintenance plan for my 2025 Pilot. It is just easier for me to plan these things than wait for a MM. We do not drive more than 10k in a year, so this is really only two services per year for us, making it very simple for me to DIY. I do not have an AWD, so this omits the TC and diff on AWD vehicles.

 

This is my maintenance plan for my 2025 Pilot. It is just easier for me to plan these things than wait for a MM. We do not drive more than 10k in a year, so this is really only two services per year for us, making it very simple for me to DIY. I do not have an AWD, so this omits the TC and diff on AWD vehicles.

View attachment 179771

2025 Pilot FWD with 5.8 qts Oil Sump.
We must be related! What you recommend is pretty much what I do. EG I changed my oil & filter at 800, then 3200 and then 7400 miles. Based upon my OICs I’m doing 4k OCIs. We do a lot of stop & go short trips - not good for engines. My used oil @ 4200 miles OIC reeked of gasoline = GDI. 👍 I plan more frequent ATF changes - every 15k miles. My maintenance schedule takes into account our short trips = Severe Duty.

2015 Honda Odyssey FWD with 4.5 QTs Oil Sump.
SOHC & Port Injection (PI) now has 120K miles & likes 5k OCI. Installed VCM Muzzler at 68k after P0303 Fouled #3 spark plug. The Odyssey oil at 5k for PI doesn’t smell as strong of gasoline as Pilot with GDI.

Notice Honda increased oil capacity by 1.3 QTs for GDI engines; probably to account for gasoline dilution.

 

Was doing more research on the GDI engine issues and was abundantly aware of the carbon build up on the intake valves. However, oil dilution is not good, especially during break-in. I completely agree with the Old Time shade try guy. Change your oil early and often. I never follow the maintenance minder. I follow a severe duty maintenance schedule as a maximum, change the fluids in the transmission and differentials early on the first drain to get the metal particles out. Fluid changes are not expensive if you do it yourself, maintain records and use quality lubricants. The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual is strictly to get you through the warranty period and demonstrate low maintenance costs. The cost of the fluid changes pales in comparison to drivetrain replacement.

I remember the old fram oil filter commercial saying, " Pay me now or pay me later"

 

I remember the old fram oil filter commercial saying, " Pay me now or pay me later"

I do remember. I just looked at an advertisement from 1972. Mechanic says the owner could have avoided a $200 main bearing replacement if he had spent $12 on a new Fram filter. $200 to replace main bearings. Costs were a little less but of course, so were salaries.

 

I never follow the maintenance minder. I follow a severe duty maintenance schedule as a maximum, change the fluids in the transmission and differentials early on the first drain to get the metal particles out. The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual is strictly to get you through the warranty period and demonstrate low maintenance costs.

Doesn't the maintenance minder monitor how the vehicle is used and adjust the service intervals accordingly?
What is the source for the "severe duty maintenance schedule" that you follow?
Does the owner's manual for 2023+ Pilots actually contain a maintenance schedule?

 

I never follow the maintenance minder. I follow a severe duty maintenance schedule as a maximum, change the fluids in the transmission and differentials early on the first drain to get the metal particles out. The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual is strictly to get you through the warranty period and demonstrate low maintenance costs.

Doesn't the maintenance minder monitor how the vehicle is used and adjust the service intervals accordingly?
What is the source for the "severe duty maintenance schedule" that you follow?
Does the owner's manual for 2023+ Pilots actually contain a maintenance schedule?
[/QUOTE]
I think the maintenance schedule is available online from Honda. Pretty sure all manufacturers have a maintenance schedule with normal and severe duty. You need to be abundantly aware that the maintenance mileage intervals set by the manufacturers is sufficient to get the vehicle through the warranty period, when they are liable for costs covered by the warranty. If your engine/ tranny or AWD system blows up after the warranty period, the consumer pays, and the dealership makes more money.

I had a great conversation with the service shop foreman at honda when we picked up the vehicle. I quizzed him about the ridiculously long service intervals. He told me in confidence, " If i were you, divide the interval in half"
Make your own decision. Oil is cheap. Engines and transmissions are very costly now.

 

Yikes. There is a potential conspiracy theory bouncing around. It is hard to believe a reputable car manufacturer would damage that rep by intentionally misrepresenting needed service intervals in return for future repair income. Just not computing with me.

 

My take on the whole maintenance minder vs create your own maintenance schedule:

The diff fluid code appears very early, usually requiring service at the first oil change. I also own a couple of CRV's, and this code appeared early for these vehicles as well. So, Honda isn't afraid to require early service if they feel it is necessary. Same deal with the CRV's CVT transmission: first code is early, then the interval is stretched out.

Also, the MM takes dozens of variables into account when calculating service intervals. If the vehicle is rarely driven, then the codes will still appear based on time instead of mileage. Engine load is also considered, so towing and driving in hilly regions will result in earlier codes. I also just read that the vehicle keeps track of ambient temperature, even when not running. So, a vehicle parked in a 150 degree Arizona garage will effect the MM.

 

Agree that the MM are useful for owners who don’t do their own maintenance and I bet that the data gathered from MM helps car manufacturers discover any issues. It does help remind owners to get maintenance done. I just prefer to use my experience to augment the MM - essentially do fluid changes sooner.