Welcome @cloudasc ...looks like a great purchase.

 

That is very interesting that you could track down work done at an independent shop. Were all the components replaced? Including the TB Tensioner, TB Idler Pulley?
When pressing the brakes, if your getting a shimmy/shake along with the pulsing sensation in the pedal, ya, you could have a wrapped rotor. If it's not that bad, you could ride on it a while, but definitely check to see how much brake pad life you have.
Nice Find!

 

As a follow up to my OP, I poked my head under the pilot again, and actually it just looks like the it is just the passenger side skirt is missing for some reason. (Someone oops with a jackstand/lift? Oh well, doesn't change the fact I want to put running boards on it).

Also, upon checking under the passenger dash, the plastic piece in the foot-well over the metal bar that blocks the air filter replacement is still there, meaning the original owner never changed the cabin air filter. Considering it lived in the desert, I bet it is fouled up with dirt, and the reason why the fan doesn't seem to get up to full speed anymore. Gonna switch it out with a K&N (in the mail).

In regards to the maintenance history, everyone I've contacted that was on the CarFax was very helpful, and were willing to Fax me over the service history. From calling the local Honda dealership from that area (Window Regulator, Serpentine replacement - under warranty from what I can tell since they got it as "certified pre-owned"), a couple oil-change locations (that all they did was change the oil), to an "Affordable Automotive Repair" place, which is what did the Motor Mounts, and Timing Belt Job (which lists a part number that is the Import Direct Timing Kit you can buy from O'Reilly's), and I misheard them over the phone, the T-Belt was serviced at 120.7k miles, not 127k (Cost $700, 200ish parts, 400ish labor + tax). Either way, one less thing I have to deal with for 6+ years, or another 90k miles. The front and rear motor mounts were done on a different trip to that same mechanic at around 124k (3k miles later). So yeah, most places are happy to provide you service information about a vehicle if you know it was serviced there (simply gave them the license plate number and what type of vehicle) - though they should do a better job of redacting previous owner information before sending it over. (I didn't want to know that information, and now I do..., and couldn't help but use my google-fu )

Since the T-Belt was done less than a year ago, I don't have to worry about swapping out coolant, but I don't see any record of the thermostat being replaced on it (something I'd do at the same time as a T-Belt as cheap insurance). Close inspection of the Brake Pads, the front's say "SELECT Ceramic", which leads me also to O'Reilly's, and the BrakeBest Select Premium Ceramic. Then upon inspecting the rear brakes, looks to be the same things there too (just sans the writing on them).

To me it looks like the previous owner (mostly) followed the maintenance minder, and weren't excessively cheap about servicing it either. I ordered a new PCV Valve, K&N Intake Air Filter (already have the cleaner + oil due to my other cars that have them). Gonna stick some Royal Purple 5-20W Oil in it (same stuff I use in my 09 Fit), with K&N Oil Filter, and then do a drain & fill with Honda ATF on the Trans at the same time. Need to pull one of the spark plugs, and see if they look original, or if they were also replaced recently as well. I also requested test kits from Blackstone Laboratories, and plan on having the first drain samples analyzed to get a baseline, and see how things check out.

 

I ordered a new PCV Valve, K&N Intake Air Filter (already have the cleaner + oil due to my other cars that have them).

Honda advises against the use of an oiled type air filter.

 

Nice find, and great that you were able to confirm its service history.
If the rear blower airflow feels weak, there is a mesh screen which gets clogged up. My guess it’s covered in lint. To access the screen push the driver seat all the way back. Then pull the panel (to right of driver’s right foot) off. You should see a circular lint pattern about five inches in diameter. Just vacuum it; no filter replacement required.

 

Yeah, definitely pleased with my purchase so far, and happy I found out via digging the t-belt was already done. The rear blower works just fine, and I appreciate the info about the filter, will check/clean it out in a bit, but it's the front vents that are blowing weaker than they should when on max. Should have the new cabin filter in on Thursday, and then it's dremel time . Will find out what 12 years, and 129k miles in the desert do to a cabin filter shortly,

 

Prefer replacement OEM quality air filters over re-cleaning and re-oiling. Respectfully, to each his own.

 

Agreed, just because they are a PIA. I spent a life time cleaning filters as every piece of farm machinery we owned had them. Grandad would at least spring for the cost of a second filter so one was always clean and ready to go at a moments notice. Waiting for an air filter to dry during harvest is not only a no no, it's down right dumb. During harvest I would be cleaning the air filter and greasing the combine on a nightly basis. Well if you want to call 3 a.m. nightly. We were back up at 5 a.m. to start the day again. You would be surprised how well you could sleep in a grain truck cab.

Kids these days don't know the fun and joy of lubbing their vehicles. Getting that grease hose into some of the places they put the zerks was fun to say the least.

 

I miss zerks.

 

You've been out in the cold too long.

 

That's not a zert, that's a moose. Tourists!

 

Finally got a chance to replace both Air Filters on the Pilot with K&N's. That one bolt on the right-hand underside of the glove-box is a PITA to get to. Need to get myself a 1/4" u-joint adapter to make it a breeze going forward.

Here is what almost 130k miles on the original cabin filter looks like:





Tools I used for the job:

SKIL Rechargeable Screwdriver
Black & Decker Titanium Screwdriver Bits
8 Piece Socket Adapter Set
8MM 1/4" Drive Socket

 

Here is what almost 130k miles on the original cabin filter looks like:

Cabin filter looks better than expected for the years and mileage.

 

Looks like those smokers' lungs they used to show us in junior high to get us scared straight into never taking up the habit.

 

Have you considered the benefits of just going with good ol' paper filters?

Ditching K&N filter and going back to paper.

I've been running a K&N engine air filter for 8yrs and after watching project farms video on youtube where he tests engine air filters, I did more research and found that the K&N's suck at filtering to trade off for more airflow. There is tons of info out there on other forums and websites and I...

www.piloteers.org

 

Have you considered the benefits of just going with good ol' paper filters?

Ditching K&N filter and going back to paper.

I've been running a K&N engine air filter for 8yrs and after watching project farms video on youtube where he tests engine air filters, I did more research and found that the K&N's suck at filtering to trade off for more airflow. There is tons of info out there on other forums and websites and I...

www.piloteers.org

Given I live on the coast of California, there isn't much of a dust issue unless you are driving through certain areas when the farmers are plowing and creating mini-dust storms behind their tractors. Nor do we live/travel on dirt/dusty roads, so I'm really not concerned about the filtering performance differences between it and paper filters.

 

I just heard back from the wife, she say's the front fan no longer feels weak after the cabin filter change 😁. She also noticed an improvement in engine response/power, both in the low end and top end, and has a meaner "growl" when you put your foot into it.

On another note, in a little over 500 miles after ownership, the alternator decided to go out . I've seen "New" ones be bad out of the box / go out in a couple weeks. So regardless it's a crap shoot, and I'm feeling lucky, so I rolled the dice on a re-manufactured one, and everything seems to going well so far (knocks on wood).

When I did the inspection of the vehicle, I noticed a slight "dent" in the rear quarter panel, but it was really only noticeable from sharp angles, and didn't have any hard creases/etc (not to mention a thin layer of dirt hides it well), so called up a local Paint-less Dent Removal come out and had them take care of it, and a couple other dings (like a very minor one in the tailgate), and now outside of a little bit of "haze" in the reflection at a steep angle, can't tell there was a dent there, so I'd say it's 97% back to perfect/new and I'm happy with that, it's not a show-car being judged, and should pass a shipping carrier's inspection without note on the areas - if you've ever shipped a car, you should know what I'm talking about

Still need to track down the rocker panel moulding for the passenger side from a donor Pilot, based upon some research, it appears I'm not stuck to a specific range of years. I also want to track down some used running boards for it. Funny enough, I showed my wife a picture of a Pilot with a Brush Guard / Push Bars on the front, and she want's to get one, so may be installing one of those in the future, you know in case the #ZombieApocalypse comes .

Also, I keep finding her turning the Bass on the factory stereo to 5 when I get in... may have to do something about that

 

A good PDR guy is a real Michelangelo.

Dang, My First Ding

I also want to track down some used running boards for it.

Get them from this guy.

2006 modifications

Removing the running boards as I don't have any use for them.

 

Honestly, I do. There was something about trying to find them, then hoping they were actually functional, then the deep satisfaction of hitting the road again all freshly greased up.

 

OP, Congrats on your new car. I myself just purchased an 2008 Pilot EX-L with 230000km,s (143000 miles)
Bought as-is from my manager. For the safety it needed windshield, lube caliper sliders, and replace the snows with all season. Fantastic car, for my wife she loves it. Paid $2500.00 and all in for the safety including tires $950.
So for $3450.00 I think I did pretty well. Timing belt done last year. Just have to fix the rear blower.
Hope it gives me a couple years good service.

 

Just have to fix the rear blower.

Here you go:

Rear Blower Motor Fix

 

Got dinged too when I got my '06 in 2015. Quebec taxes you on book value for an up to 10-year-old vehicle. After 10 years, though, you can tell them whatever you want for the selling price and they'll accept it.

 

Thought Quebec became their own country , lol

 

Guess you've been out of town since 1995, when they voted "no" for the second time.

 

Damn i been away that long ... LOL ..oh well all is good !

 

Well if truth be told, Quebec is it's own country, it may be part of Canada, but it's still its own country. Or as it should be stated.

Eh bien, à vrai dire, le Québec est son propre pays, il fait peut-être partie du Canada, mais c'est toujours son propre pays.

😆

 

Certainement une société distincte.

But I believe we're well into topic drift. OP, let us know how that rear blower motor fix goes.

 

All of this discussion and not one person has said anything about the NHSTA stating that the proper repair for a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and patch for the area inside the tire that surrounds the puncture hole.

When I was young, both pre radials and post radials we always hot patched a hole in the tread area. If the hole was big enough we would plug it then hot patch it. Small car tires, PU truck tires, semi truck tires (i hated split rim wheels) as well as tractor, combine, and other farm machinery tires. I have never seen a properly hot patched tire have an issue due to the patch.

With radial plugs that melt and bond to the rubber at road speed covered with a hot patch on the inside of the tire one should never have to worry about having a patch on the tire.

 

All of this discussion and not one person has said anything about the NHSTA stating that the proper repair for a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and patch for the area inside the tire that surrounds the puncture hole.

When I was young, both pre radials and post radials we always hot patched a hole in the tread area. If the hole was big enough we would plug it then hot patch it. Small car tires, PU truck tires, semi truck tires (i hated split rim wheels) as well as tractor, combine, and other farm machinery tires. I have never seen a properly hot patched tire have an issue due to the patch.

With radial plugs that melt and bond to the rubber at road speed covered with a hot patch on the inside of the tire one should never have to worry about having a patch on the tire.

See post #54 above.

 

So the other day I watched the wife drive off, and it looked like the 3rd brake light wasn't working. After completing the oil & ATF change, as the wife was not available, used a couple small bags of cat litter (bought to help cleanup any fluid spills) to depress the brake and confirmed it is indeed not lighting up. I checked the Owners Manual for the bulb type, and found it isn't really helpful. If I'm to believe the auto-parts stores, the high mount brake light uses "921"? Does anyone have experience using LED's in this position? If so what brand & source would you recommend? Ideally I want something brighter than stock, not (especially) concerned about power efficiency, and since it's LED has the benefit of getting to full brightness quicker. Or should I just slap a good ol' cheap halogen in it? (by far the most economical, and not like that bulb is really that difficult/time consuming to replace).

 

I'd just put the same bulb back in it. It's just a brake light.

 

It just burns out more frequently than other bulbs, it seems, but yeah, just put the same one back in. Be careful with those little red triangular screw covers, though. Dealer only item, and of course there's an obscene markup.

I'd just add to use a little rag over the pick (or flathead screwdriver) as Honda recommends, to reduce the risk of breaking the little tab, without which the two little triangular red plastic covers won't snap into place anymore and you'll probably lose them while driving. They are annoying and overpriced to replace, so best to avoid the hassle.

On my first change, I lost one and had to fork over something like six bucks plus taxes for that tiny bit of red plastic.

If it's more visibilty you want, for tailgaters and the like, do what I did.

Flashing Blinking 3rd Brake Light

 

If it's more visibilty you want, for tailgaters and the like, do what I did.

Flashing Blinking 3rd Brake Light

See #3 10 Car Options the Law Won't Let You Have

 

I'd rather take my chances with law enforcement officers than with dangerous tailgaters.

I've already been totaled in one which sent my wife to the hospital because of a cellphone lady tailgater, so I'm not looking forward to my next "carlonoscopy."

Pilot just totaled

 

Welp, upon checking under the Pilot this morning, there was a small stain from where it's leaking slowly from the oil pan drain plug area. I noticed there was some blue sealant on the bottom of the drain plug area when removing the drain bolt, and also when I was installing, the washer didn't seem the right size. Upon reviewing the Majestic Honda website again for the part, they had the schematic linked to the wrong part, so I bought several 18MM washers instead of 14MM. When installing the improperly sized one, I did line it up, the outside diameter seemed right, but the inside diameter was too loose. So it looks like I'll be venturing to the nearest dealership and picking up a couple of those drain washers, and will be having to drain the oil again, replace said washer, then putting the drained oil (with maybe only 100 miles on it) back in through the top. If that doesn't fix the slow drip, then I'll apply some Permatex Grey in the manner of the previous one (along the bottom edge).

So the incorrect part I got was: 90401-P8A-A00
While the correct (washer) part should be: 94109-14000
Oil Drain Plug part number is: 90009-R70-A00

 

So it looks like I'll be venturing to the nearest dealership and picking up a couple of those drain washers, and will be having to drain the oil again, replace said washer, then putting the drained oil (with maybe only 100 miles on it) back in through the top. If that doesn't fix the slow drip, then I'll apply some Permatex Grey in the manner of the previous one (along the bottom edge).

Pick up the correct crush washers for the oil pan and use new oil and recycle the old oil. With the correct crush washer there should be no need for permatex

 

If you have a helper, and you’re quick, you might be able to get by with having to replace only a quart of oil. Just do this when the engine is cold as you’ll have your finger in the drain hole as someone swaps crush washers on the drain plug.

 

LOL, like the classic tale of the little Dutch boy who put his finger in a dike.

 

Ran to the Honda Dealership and picked up a new drain plug, and 4 crush washers (since they are the same part number for my 09 Fit as well). Goal is to use each one twice (flip between changes), and then replace, but actually haven't gotten a chance to switch out the drain plug yet, as the wife's job will have worked her 40 hours in the last 3 days. Goal is to let the vehicle cool overnight, and tackle that swap first thing Sunday morning.

On another note, Prior to the oil/transmission fluid change, one of the gas mileage readings came back as 14.8mpg, and found out she was "rushing" to get everywhere, so after that bottle of fuel injector cleaner, and oil/trans fluid change, and telling her the biggest improvement one can make for MPG is to change the nut behind the wheel, reports her MPG has gone up to 18.55mpg for 50/50 highway/city driving, with minimal/no AC. So overall, that's a 20% improvement in MPG. Now she leaves for work early, and 🎶 keeps the gas peddle leaned back taking her time🎶. I also advised her about how Drive-By-Wire throttle control is different than how her old 2000 Civic (and my 91 Accord) works, so she is also dealing with that learning curve (which I'm used to from my 09 Fit Sport (manual) I bought with 3 miles on it). E.g. the bulk of (background) knowledge bestowed in this video: The Big Problem With Modern Manual Transmissions - Rev Hang

 

Ran to the Honda Dealership and picked up a new drain plug, and 4 crush washers (since they are the same part number for my 09 Fit as well). Goal is to use each one twice (flip between changes)

Done the same thing for crush washers in good shape and never had an issue. Bought a bag of twenty off Amazon < $8 to keep on hand. On a neighbor's car it was surprising to see that some quick oil change shops will reuse crush washers crushed beyond the original shape.