While the switch -might- go bad, my suggestion is aimed at soling the most common cause of your symptom -- switch accidentally moved to the wrong position.
The next steps are aimed at electrically troubleshooting for possible failures. Interior lights operations are managed via the MICU, the 'smarts' part of the under-dash fuse and relay box. Because the car uses the door switches for lots of things, like external lighting, alarm and immobilizer, etc., beyond just operating the interior lights, troubleshooting isn't quite as easy as it was in the pre- computerized cars era. In the last few days, a reader posted to a vintage thread that includes a downloadable copy of the workshop manuals. There's an electrical troubleshooting manual in there that includes current flow diagrams.
Before digging deep into that, you might just replace that fuse 22 under the hood, look for power in each map light assembly at the WHT wire coming in. It should show battery voltage at all times. Since you report that no interior lights are working, the fuse and wiring from that fuse are the only failure elements common to all the interior lights.
The MICU manages the ground paths for the 2nd and 3rd row overhead lights only. To wit, the 1st row map lights can be operated directly regardless of the position of the roof console slider switch or MICU function, via direct ground connection through the BLK wire in each lamp/switch. If those work, the fuse and supply wiring are OK and you get to move on to testing connections and functions at the MICU.
Look at 114 in the electrical manual, where the current flow and connections are detailed. OK if you decide to replace the overhead console to get things to work again, but at least do some basic troubleshooting to rule out the obvious.
