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Honda Fuel Pump Replacement Walkthrough

27K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Nail Grease  
#1 ·
Couldn't find any fuel pump walk through for Honda on the forum. Thought I'd post my progression. I'll add to it as I go.
This is my 2012 V6 Crosstour. This can be a dangerous job opening tank. It is gasoline. The less fuel in the tank the better. Disconect battery. A ground strap from the vehicle to the ground for static electricity might not be a bad idea. Do in a well vented area (I don't smoke). If using lighting, leave your extension cord connection outside the vehicle an make sure your light is sealed.
Seat had one 10mm bolt that needed to be removed between the seat and seatback and 2 sliding clips you pull to release on the front to reveal fuel pump cover.
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The cover is held on by 4 plastic turn tabs. Simply use a medium phillips head screwdriver to turn these to align them with the slots in the plate.

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Time to clean dust off so it doesn't end up in the tank.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Well thankfully, I didn’t blow up anything. 🤠
I got the old pump cleaned up with tooth brushes and a shop vac.
The electrical connection is male and has a single squeeze clip on the right side (orientation as pictured). The the fuel connection is a double sided white squeeze clip (had to reuse clip).
I used a bungee cord to hold the fuel line back out of the way. Be prepared to tie this back somehow. It will be in the way if not.
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using a hammer and standard screwdriver, tap on the ridges on the ring counter clockwise to loosen. Not to many hits. It eventually became loose enough to turn by hand. More dirt was created when removing ring. I continued to use vac to insure no dirt fell into the gas tank. This would be a good time to gently remove fuel connection clip and install on your new pump. I used a pick to lift the 2 tabs over the barb to release it.
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At this point I just grabbed the pump and started pulling up, working it out side to side until it popped out with the large rubber gasket. Tilt the pump forward as the fuel drains out into the tank, eventually tilting it enough for the float to clear the opening. Sorry, no photos at this point. Didn’t want to create anymore gasoline vapors than I had to by leaving it open.
Understanding how the new gasket went on the new pump, I put it on the pump in it’s place. I attached the new float to the new pump and lowered it into the tank. Problem was that the large rubber gasket would not go into the tank while up around the top of the pump. I had to pull it down and fit it in the tank opening first, then push the pump down through it into position. The pump tried to float back up. I had to press it down while I installed the ring with the large plastic washer that goes on first. I turned the ring by hand, then tap tightened until the arrow just past the fuel connection, as old ring was. Connect fuel line and electrical connection.
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Reconnected the battery.
tuned the key to the on position 3 times to push some fuel up to the engine and then started.
Checked for leak at the fuel connection, all good.
Put the cover lid back on and reinstalled seat.
Replacement pump I used was made by Delphi.
Delphi pump lasted 30k miles and quit. Now using Spectra Premium.
 
#8 ·
how about the sensors responsible for providing information regarding the fuel trims? are those working properly? I would imagine this fuel pump only be the tip of things to come (failing) given the high mileage
 
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#9 ·
I've replaced MAF and throttle body which also comes with a new MAP. Compression test proved to be ok. I replaced the fuel pump because it was taking longer than it should to start. The new fuel pump has fixed that symptom. It still has higher than normal negative fuel trims. I have lower intake manifolds and gaskets on the way. Will replace knock sensor and check valve clearance while it's apart.