A bunch of views but no replies. I think I looked 2-3 times. It would be nice, I haven't seen anything, with all the crazy electronics I don't know if I'd want to hack the software yet.

Bluetooth dash camera - For $40 you can mount this back there or one of the license plate mounted versions and be good. Keep an old cell phone and you can dedicate it just for that.

Backup camera with monitor - you just need a switch to power it on.

 

I installed DPDT switch that has one pole normally closed on one side and momentary on the other, and a tap off the inside fuse block on a 2nd generation 2011. I had to order the electrical manual to find the right circuit. The job is actually pretty easy if you know which circuit to power. What I did was provide 12 volts to the back up lights which also tell the camera to turn on. I used a switch that fits one of the empty spots on the left side of the dash. The circuit switches the power from the stock power supply to the fuse block tap and does not need anything else like diodes, so it is very simple.
The connections are all under the left side of the dash.
Here is the part information off of ebay.
Rocker Switch, Contact Form DPDT, Number of Connections 6, Switch Function On/Momentary On, Terminals 0.250 in Quick Connect Tab, Mounting Hole 0.830 in x 1.450 in, AC Contact Rating 15A @ 250V, 20A @ 125V, HP 2 hp, Body Color Black, Switch Color Ivory, Operating Temp. Range 32 Degrees to 104 Degrees F, Standards CE, CUL, TUV, UL
MPN:
2LNJ5
You really only need a SPDT with one side normally on and the other side momentary on switch. I only used 3 of the 6 pins on the back. I ordered both a SPDT and a DPDT switch and used the DPDT switch because the rocker color is white and easier to see in the dark. Here is the info on the other unused switch off of Amazon.
I did this a while ago and had to study up on the nomenclature for the switches and am a little hazy on it now. The switch needs to be normally on for one direction and only turn the camera on when you push the rocker switch to the other side. That's what the ON(ON) function description means.


Details & Specs
Light Color: Cold White, Terminal Material: Silver Plated Copper Bass, Number of Prongs: 1.00
Throw Type: Double, Terminal Type: .250" Quick Disconnect, Switch Function: ON-(ON)
Actuator Type: Rocker, Illuminated?: Yes, Mounting Type: Flush-Mount
Housing Material: Nylon, Is it Waterproof?: No.
Package Dimension: Length (In): 1.00, Width (In): 2.00, Height (In): 2.00
MPN: EPS010S-GN-XX
What's Included?
(1) Switch Button
(1) Switch Base

 

I installed single throw double pole switch that has one pole normally closed and a tap off the inside fuse block on a 2nd generation 2011. I had to order the electrical manual to find the right circuit. The job is actually pretty easy if you know which circuit to power. What I did was provide 12 volts to the back up lights which also tell the camera to turn on. I used a switch that fits one of the empty spots on the left side of the dash. The circuit switches the power connection from the stock power supply to the fuse block tap and does not need anything else like diodes, so it is very simple.

Thanks for the info. I'll give this a try and report back. I really wish there is a software hack available for this, instead of going hardware way.

To sequoiasoon: I already have a backup dashcam but it's too highup mounted on the rear windshield but can't see the trailer hitch connection as I wanted, so don't really want to install another camera unless neccessary. .

 

So you run 12V to the reverse lights to trigger the camera but that also then powers up the reverse lights while driving forward? That was also on your older 2011 not a 3rd gen with other known infotainment and electrical issues and computer push button tranny stuff depending on trim level.

The cost of these newer electronics if no longer in warranty is obscene. If in warranty and they can determine that you did anything, it will be denied. I’m sure there is a way and might be as simple as listed to power the camera lead.

I’m all for less expensive hacks and modifications. If I powered up my reverse circuit even with trailer on there to block some, there might be some really annoyed people since I have extra reverse lights. Without trailer it might cause accidents.

 

Here's my wiring going to be if I would do that.
My reverse signal supply will use the normally close and normally open will be for manual supply and the camera is connected to common of the control relay. Control relay is getting manual on/off by a switch which is getting a feed from ignition supply. Diode is placed to avoid emf.