There are two power sockets in the center console. "A" in the interior of the armrest box is protected directly by fuse 16 (15A) in the auxiliary under-hood fuse and relay box, while "B" in the rear of the console for second row passengers is protected by fuse 12 (15A) in that same box. Be Sure you are in the correct under-hood fuse and relay box.

Each of the accessory power outlets has a dedicated relay that interrupts current flow to the sockets when the transmission is in park or neutral and (I think when) the starter is engaged. These are identified as "console accessory power socket A relay" and "console accessory power socket B relay", respectively, and are of course buried in the console lower left side, next to each other. If one console outlet is working and one is not, .and. both fuses test good, you can swap the two relays and see if the symptom moves. If -none- of the accessory power outlets is working, all four relay coil circuits are protected by fuse 35 (10A) in the under-dash fuse and relay panel.

Before disassembling the console to check those relays, I'd be replacing the suspect fuse not just testing. The fuses have tiny test-port holes in the back that let you use a needle probe in your multimeter to verify the presence of battery voltage on both sides of each fuse in-circuit. The relay contacts are in circuits between the fuses and the outlets.

If you've been using a high-current device in the suspect socket for an extended time, it's certainly worthwhile looking hard into the socket itself to make sure it isn't damaged by heat from a poor connection. I've seen the tab for the center pin warped by heat, enough to prevent a good contact with the inserted power connector. This often happens when a Euro-style connector is inserted, the one that's a bit smaller than what we colonists like to call a 'standard' plug.

 

It’s the socket under the center console armrest. I'm going to test the fuses and than test the relays as you mentioned.

I think the reason it's not working is because I've been using a tire inflator on that socket.

 

I don’t see the “console accessory power socket A relay” in any of the fuse box diagrams.

However, I’m the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box, fuse 35 “Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No1 & No.2,”. I’m going to test this one as well.

'09-'15 Honda Pilot Fuse Box Diagram

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box Gauge Control Module Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No.1 '09-'10: Rear Blower Motor Relay '11-'15: Rear Blower Motor Relay Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No.2 Passenger Compartment Fuse Box Fuses Specifications No. A Protected Component 1 7.5 Variable

knigaproavto.ru

 

I tested the following fuses in Engine Compartment Fuse Box No.2
#12 Console Accessory Power Socket No.2
#16 Console Accessory Power Socket No.1
#18 Front Accessory Power Socket
They were ALL good.

I also tested the following fuse in the Passenger Compartment fuse box:
#35 Area Accessory Power Socket Relay, Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No1 & No.2.
This was good as well.

The socket behind the center console armrest works and the USB in the armrest works as well but the socket in the armrest does NOT work. Could it be a bad socket?

 

1) Fuse Box
2) Gauge Control Module
3) Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No.1
4) '09-'10: Rear Blower Motor Relay
5) '11-'15: Rear Blower Motor Relay
6) Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No.2


So now I know what you mean, I need to check 3) Console Accessory Power Socket Relay No.1 and I could swap the two Socket Relays 3) and 6) to see if the problem jumps to the other socket. How do I access this relay?

 

The console gets disassembled and lifted to access the relays. ;(

Inspect the socket itself for damage. High-load devices like your inflator/compressor tend to cause heat at poor connections, and in this case the typical victim of that heat is the center contact in the socket itself. These devices are often connected for extended periods of time, offering an extended opportunity for heat damage. The socket is replaceable.