Fluid film application or similar competitive products could help to arrest or slow the rust process. The unibody cross member that the rear subframe bolts onto appears intact and could benefit from preventative treatment. The area of concern appears to be the frame rails that the hitch attaches to. The rear impact beam is probably rusty but replaceable.

 

I wouldn't have a way of knowing how badly the inside, where I can't see, is rusted.

This is, unfortunately, an accurate statement. Nobody has come up with a practical way to determine the state of affairs inside the unibody structure. If it were me, I would start poking around pretty aggressively with an ice pick to see if you can push through, but your seller might not be supportive of that plan.

Since it appears that you live in a place where cars rust, it's just a matter of time before a Pilot will, too. If that's a risk you don't want to take, start shopping in the Sun Belt.

 

Thanks. When I go tomorrow, to take a look again, I might poke around a little more, but not with an ice pick

Also, I don't know much about rust, but once the rusting starts, does it just keep expanding on its own, even if you manage to prevent the original source of the rust?

Lastly, did anyone ever figure out how water was making it's way into this area so as to figure out the best places to seal things? Would anyone recommend drilling small holes in key spots to help let water drain out from problem areas?

 

@aggrex , I'd be interested to know if you notice any other problem areas in these photos that I took as well. Thanks for the feedback!

 

@aggrex , I'd be interested to know if you notice any other problem areas in these photos that I took as well. Thanks for the feedback!

The second set of pictures are not too bad and should respond to some preventative treatment. The first set of pictures is typical of Pilots driven in the rust belt. If you decide on this Pilot some action on your part will be needed to preserve your investment for as long as possible.

 

The suggestion regarding getting a vehicle from the sunbelt should be given way more consideration than folks give it. When I see the Pilots on here from the north I am truly shocked how they look/compare/ease to work on, etc. compared to my 2007 Texas vehicle. I have no rust on the undercarriage, etc. and when I work on mine the nuts, bolts, parts come off relatively easily. There are 2 ways to buy a sunbelt vehicle: (1) find potential vehicles online and then come on down here or Arizona to buy one (either fly down, rent a car there and leave it here or road trip with the wife or kid); or (2) find one on Carfax that is a pure sunbelt vehicle and have it transferred up here, yes for a price but the objective is to get a sunbelt car so getting one comes at a bit of extra cost in that respect. When I lived in Chicago, I bought my Jeep Grand Cherokee in Phoenix, beautiful vehicle.

 

The sad thing about rust belt Pilots is no matter how well the vehicle was maintained, rust is gonna take it. Pilots can run for an amazing amount of miles, but if the wheels fall off, the story is over.

 

This vehicle has been located in central New Jersey for its whole life. So hopefully that means it hasn’t been as bad as if it was in the Rust Belt. It’s no Arizona here, but hopefully a bit better than some other areas.

 

If decide to buy this Pilot, then you would be wise to use either Fluid Film or the Boeing anti corrosion*product in the vulnerable areas. It seems that the rear crossmember and everything behind it are likely to rust. Best of luck to you!

*Boeshield T-9

 

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14 oz Aerosol

Destroys rust hiding inside the chassis, rocker panels and pillars so it won't rust through

www.eastwood.com

 

Also companies like Krown that have locations that will apply their rust prevention treatments. What nice about those is that they use pressure and wands to try to get behind and inside the panels.

 

Thanks. It looks like there's one in NJ. I'll be sure to investigate that as a solution.

 

Do both. Get professional rustproofing every late fall before the first batch of salt hits the roads, and regularly slather it with Fluid Film (with lanolin

) or similar product. Physical entropy will eventually be the end of everything material, but you can stave it off a bit and find some joy before.

FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

FLUID FILM® is Eureka’s own unique lanolin-based brand of corrosion preventive and lubricant, used worldwide in a multitude of industries and applications.

www.fluid-film.com

 

I use Duplicolor Rust Barrier spray (can get at just about any auto store) on the underbody surfaces and
this on the internal areas. I suggest getting 2 cans.https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

 

Did you have to put the car on a lift to do so?

 

Thank you for all of the tips, comments, and suggestions. I went back and ended up purchasing the car. I didn't use an ice pick to poke around at the potential problem areas, but I examined them a lot more closely and they seem to be in good shape so far. I will definitely taking preventative steps though to keep issues to a minimum.