Looking for all weather tires for my 2015 Pilot. I live in Pennsylvania. They need to be good for snow, but mostly highway driving. What do you recommend?
Klf1077
I live in western Pennsylvania and I have the Bridgestone Dueler Alenzas on my pilot. They have been solid especially in the snow the last few days. I think I’d consider the Michelin Defenders as well or the pirelli scorpion verde II or the continental cross contact lx25. Heard great things about all of those tires. Tires are one thing to never go cheap on.
Maybe narrow down the choices by prioritizing what's most important to you, i.e., riding comfort, noise, price, off road handling, tread wear longevity, load rating, high speed/cornering performance, dry/wet and snow handling ... etc.
This might help:
You might want to check out the Michelin Cross Climate 2 or SUV.
This might help:
You might want to check out the Michelin Cross Climate 2 or SUV.
I understand that they may not technically be "All-Weather Tires" like the Vredestein Quatrac 5s or the BF Goodrich Advantage TA Sport but they're All-Season. My experience in Western PA, which by the way is where Uber was performing their self driving experimentation due to the changes in elevation, terrain and weather, was that the Bridgestone Dueler Alenzas had served me well in the snow and the hills around here. I bought my 2011 Pilot in March of 2019 and it had the Goodyear Forteras. The Forteras still had half their usable tread left and I was happy to discard them.
Another thing you may want to look into is changing the rear shocks.
Another thing you may want to look into is changing the rear shocks.
It’s the dueler Alenza plus. I have the ecopias on my wife’s Volvo and these are better IMO. Had a good deal at Costco on these. I’d be willing to try something different on my next go around but I’d also happily get these again. I will say that I don’t think these will get to the warranty mark on mileage.
Which tires have held up best for you guys year round?
Which tires have held up best for you guys year round?
Michelin Defender® LTX® M/S. Michelin is the only tire I have purchased for the last 40+ years. In every case, the tread has outlasted the warranty. 70k to 80k miles.
I've had Bridgestone Blizzak tires on my 2010. Have it for about 3-4 years now. I switch my tires during the winter and summer months here in Illinois and I like how how it drives. Little bit of road noise though, but I don't mind it.
Need to come back and quasi retract my post earlier. Starting to get some road noise from the Dueler Alenzas so I had my yearly inspection come up here as we do in Pennsylvania and had my mechanic take a look. Was fully prepared to need a new wheel bearing and the mechanic, knowing that I was willing to spend the $, informed me that indeed these tires are cupping. No suspension or wheel bearing issues. I was hoping it was a wheel bearing rather than the tires.
When you buy tires from Costco, they simply sell and install. They do not do alignments. My previous tires were not cupping or further indicating any sort of alignment issue. I then had an alignment done when I had the compliance bushings replaced. Is it possible that not aligning right away would lead to feathering, notwithstanding the prior lack of alignment related issues?
Also, Costco now is willing to give me 60% of the value of two of the tires towards new ones. Do I just replace the worn ones with new ones (current tread is 8/32) or do I sack up and take the $ they're giving me and get Michelins? I'd consider other less expensive tires but they're giving me almost $250 towards new tires.
When you buy tires from Costco, they simply sell and install. They do not do alignments. My previous tires were not cupping or further indicating any sort of alignment issue. I then had an alignment done when I had the compliance bushings replaced. Is it possible that not aligning right away would lead to feathering, notwithstanding the prior lack of alignment related issues?
Also, Costco now is willing to give me 60% of the value of two of the tires towards new ones. Do I just replace the worn ones with new ones (current tread is 8/32) or do I sack up and take the $ they're giving me and get Michelins? I'd consider other less expensive tires but they're giving me almost $250 towards new tires.
Have not verified alignment. Have only verified by 2 separate people that front tires are cupping. They get cross rotated every 5k when I take it back to Costco for rotation. I run it at spec or 1 psi above. When Costco does put tires on they fill w Nitrogen, which is supposed to be more stable in different conditions.
"Cupping" is a description that offers a couple causes. Most common are severe imbalance/damage and worn shock absorbers. It takes a bit of misalignment to cause cupping, and most alignment issues have additional wear telltales.
Know that the compliance bushings are bonded, and play an active roll (sorry...) in managing/dampening control arm movement. WSM installation instructions are quite detailed in how they need to be installed, so they are at functionally neutral load at normal ride height. Colloquial (DIY and the rest of us) instructions often recommend that you mark the position of a nub on the rubber section relative to the control arm, and place your new bushings with those nubs in the same place before tightening the nut on the end. Honda specifies a very specific angle of the arm on the compliance bushing vs. the control arm. The install tolerance range is only a few degrees wide. Generally, manufacturers only define a method and spec like that when they really mean it. Bottom line though is that a compliance bushing that isn't done correctly may allow more control arm movement, as it isn't doing the amount of dampening that's expected. Your springs/shocks may easily pass a push-and-rebound test, yet there's still enough movement to cause the cupping.
Look also at your links from the anti-roll bar, and the bushings where that bar mounts to the front subframe. Wear in these parts is usually accompanied by noises while driving, but they should still be considered for inspection and replacement as consumables. Expected life varies on your driving conditions and the condition of the rest of the suspension.
Know that the compliance bushings are bonded, and play an active roll (sorry...) in managing/dampening control arm movement. WSM installation instructions are quite detailed in how they need to be installed, so they are at functionally neutral load at normal ride height. Colloquial (DIY and the rest of us) instructions often recommend that you mark the position of a nub on the rubber section relative to the control arm, and place your new bushings with those nubs in the same place before tightening the nut on the end. Honda specifies a very specific angle of the arm on the compliance bushing vs. the control arm. The install tolerance range is only a few degrees wide. Generally, manufacturers only define a method and spec like that when they really mean it. Bottom line though is that a compliance bushing that isn't done correctly may allow more control arm movement, as it isn't doing the amount of dampening that's expected. Your springs/shocks may easily pass a push-and-rebound test, yet there's still enough movement to cause the cupping.
Look also at your links from the anti-roll bar, and the bushings where that bar mounts to the front subframe. Wear in these parts is usually accompanied by noises while driving, but they should still be considered for inspection and replacement as consumables. Expected life varies on your driving conditions and the condition of the rest of the suspension.
Stupid science stuff:
The "dry" nitrogen fill is a gimmick. A good one and popular. But the real benefit comes from "dry". The two major components of air we breathe are nitrogen and oxygen, and all but a tiny fraction of the rest (maybe 1% of total by mass) are all considered "perfect gasses", which expand and contract in perfect proportion with changes in their (absolute) temperature. Moisture/water vapor (tiny fraction of that one percent...) is the major not-perfect gas component, as it expands and contracts in a much smaller temperature range. Get the moisture out of the air in the tires, and they change pressure less than a more humid charge in the tires.
Consider that the tires get "filled" with your local air when they are mounted, to a pressure of about 14.5 PSI absolute. Then approximately two more atmospheres of air pressure are added. It's only the air added after the bead is seated that will be "dry" nitrogen. You have an initial charge of 78% nitrogen with the air inside during mounting, then two more atmospheres of pure dry nitrogen added, leaving you with net about 7% other gasses and still way under 1% moisture under the best circumstances. Only about 1/3 of the moisture you would expect with a fill of ambient air. Amazingly, that fraction of moisture, although smaller, still has an almost identical effect on hot tire pressure increase. Gimmick...
The "dry" nitrogen fill is a gimmick. A good one and popular. But the real benefit comes from "dry". The two major components of air we breathe are nitrogen and oxygen, and all but a tiny fraction of the rest (maybe 1% of total by mass) are all considered "perfect gasses", which expand and contract in perfect proportion with changes in their (absolute) temperature. Moisture/water vapor (tiny fraction of that one percent...) is the major not-perfect gas component, as it expands and contracts in a much smaller temperature range. Get the moisture out of the air in the tires, and they change pressure less than a more humid charge in the tires.
Consider that the tires get "filled" with your local air when they are mounted, to a pressure of about 14.5 PSI absolute. Then approximately two more atmospheres of air pressure are added. It's only the air added after the bead is seated that will be "dry" nitrogen. You have an initial charge of 78% nitrogen with the air inside during mounting, then two more atmospheres of pure dry nitrogen added, leaving you with net about 7% other gasses and still way under 1% moisture under the best circumstances. Only about 1/3 of the moisture you would expect with a fill of ambient air. Amazingly, that fraction of moisture, although smaller, still has an almost identical effect on hot tire pressure increase. Gimmick...
Was just looking at tires too. Like $900-$1000 total between Costco and Discount Tire. Costco isn't that much cheaper plus I hear you have to make an appointment. The Discount Tire where I live is amazing. Even when they are busy I can be out of there in 30-45 minutes. Plus they have a good warranty.
I used to use Discount Tire a lot. Seemed the lines got longer and my ticket got larger after a reasonable tire price quote.
I just got some new tires for my Track Day coming up end of May '21.
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BATTLAX HYPERSPORT S21
Latest Technology Hypersport Radials designed and developed to get the best out of the latest Hypersport machines
Speed Rated to W- = 168mph+ !
OH wait, wrong forum LOL
Around $272 shiupped.
I'm now mounting and balancing myself too! I use the 'Zip-tie' method for removing and mounting. And some tire tools.
BATTLAX HYPERSPORT S21
Latest Technology Hypersport Radials designed and developed to get the best out of the latest Hypersport machines
Speed Rated to W- = 168mph+ !
OH wait, wrong forum LOL
Around $272 shiupped.
I'm now mounting and balancing myself too! I use the 'Zip-tie' method for removing and mounting. And some tire tools.
Oh I don't know, for a set of 4 it would only be $544. At that price I'm sure there are some members here that would be willing to try to put them on one of their vehicles, since they do appear to be performance tires as well as quite inexpensive (cheap). 🤣
How are they at 75 mph taking a curve?
If you want to mount a different sized tire at any tire store, just carry the wheels in. I order tires in advance at Costco, make an appointment for mounting them, and just leave the wheels without a car bolted to them. That way they are fitting tires to wheels, not to a car for which they have size limitations. That way the wheels get cleaned and any refurbishing is done in advance too. Saves air-gun wear on lug-nuts and wheel studs too. They get done while I shop.
The tires on our Pilot are Michelin club-store-only labeled Michelins, which ended up almost $200 less than the identical but mainstream-labeled tire. Shop the promotions and rebates carefully. Fortuitous ordering and mounting schedules managed to span two fall promotions/rebates periods. I'd like to claim some clairvoyance but can't.
The tires on our Pilot are Michelin club-store-only labeled Michelins, which ended up almost $200 less than the identical but mainstream-labeled tire. Shop the promotions and rebates carefully. Fortuitous ordering and mounting schedules managed to span two fall promotions/rebates periods. I'd like to claim some clairvoyance but can't.
My history with Hankook tires is, um, mediocre at best. I know there are some serious fans and the prices are very attractive, but tread life and ride quality have never lived up to expectations. I have two only experiences, one when they were already installed on a car I bought, and one when I bought a set outright for a utility/jobsite Toyota pickup. My won't-ever-buy list includes these and a few others. I'm a user sample set of one though.
Wow xGS ***. Quite obvious from an outsider point of view that he dislikes Nail Grease. Just sayin. Came to this thread looking for tire recommendations and it was mostly about how xGS's hate for another member.
He's ok with me. He keeps me on my toes. I really enjoy the cynical responses. Great entertainment for everyone and it's free. 😁
Children, If we're playing poker here, I will see you "Hate" chest puffing and raise you one.....
![149837]( "149837")
FYI..... This isn's MLB there is no 3 strikes you out rule.
FYI..... This isn's MLB there is no 3 strikes you out rule.
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