no room on the other side because the jack equiptment is there and you can only put a 10'' sub ...just add a 10'' bazooka tube

 

As always the first two questions I ask someone is what kind of budget do you have and what kind of results are you looking for ???
They still make Bazooka ??

 

I had a passive 10" Bazooka. It really lacked detail the louder it got, but it is a really efficient system. Sold it and put in a solid 10" sub in a sealed enclosure, much better.

By the way OE Jeffrey, I am contemplating the idea of running speaker wires into the front doors, via the rubber boots. I am wanting to move my tweeters into the door, like you and PTO have done. They seem to be very well blended in this spot, they were way to bright on the dash locations. How hard is it to get wire through the boots? Are you happy with your tweeters there on the door?

 

Thanks for the replies. I would rather keep from adding anything (bazooka tube or sub box) to the interior. I'd like to keep it as stock looking as possible for different reasons.

I'm not to concerned about budget. I can do the install myself so my only expense is the gear. My main goals are to be louder than stock (while remaining distortion free) and to get some deeper, louder bass. I'm not looking to compete or anything. I just like to hear my music loud. I'm keeping the stock HU and going with 6 1/2" components in all the doors with and my amp (or amps) selection depends on what Iu do for subs. I think 2 12s would round that out nicely so I figured I check in here to see if that was possible instead of tearing everything apart and having a shell of a pilot for weeks!

Thanks again for the help!

 

Thanks for the replies. I would rather keep from adding anything (bazooka tube or sub box) to the interior. I'd like to keep it as stock looking as possible for different reasons.

I'm not to concerned about budget. I can do the install myself so my only expense is the gear. My main goals are to be louder than stock (while remaining distortion free) and to get some deeper, louder bass. I'm not looking to compete or anything. I just like to hear my music loud. I'm keeping the stock HU and going with 6 1/2" components in all the doors with and my amp (or amps) selection depends on what I do for subs. I think 2 12s would round that out nicely so I figured I check in here to see if that was possible instead of tearing everything apart and having a shell of a pilot for weeks!

Thanks again for the help!

 

Thanks for the replies. I would rather keep from adding anything (bazooka tube or sub box) to the interior. I'd like to keep it as stock looking as possible for different reasons.

I'm not to concerned about budget. I can do the install myself so my only expense is the gear. My main goals are to be louder than stock (while remaining distortion free) and to get some deeper, louder bass. I'm not looking to compete or anything. I just like to hear my music loud. I'm keeping the stock HU and going with 6 1/2" components in all the doors with and my amp (or amps) selection depends on what I do for subs. I think 2 12s would round that out nicely so I figured I check in here to see if that was possible instead of tearing everything apart and having a shell of a pilot for weeks!

Thanks again for the help!

 

I would suggest you go similar route to mine thread, but look for a decent name brand 10" sub withing 5.18" mounting dept or bellow, I would go with the Sundown E8v2, that **** is a monster probably hit 2x stronger than the sub I have right now, I hope I can pick up a use one locally or new, or Digital Design... many good under ground brand out there, plus dynamat the stock sub enclosure with the right tuning on your amp you bass will be really good and doesn't rattles, with my setup now it doesn't rattles like before, better thum and bass, but would want to go with the E8v2 one with lower mounting depth that extra 1/2" helps alot for the subwoofer in action, if you want to fit a 5 1/2" sub mounting depth it's possible but you can't push it to the limit, you'll need about 3/8" gap for the sub rubber ring when it's in action.

 

I would definitely take the tweeters to the door!!! That piece of glass is a nightmare for imaging. If you scroll through crutchfield and enter kick panels you will see how close to the woofer the tweeters are. In the component realm atleast in my opinion the closer the better.

 

The tweeters are definately a lot more seemless on the door panel. I have been contemplating on running my components active with my RF 360.2 processor for better control of my levels on my comps. I already tried with the tweeters in the spot you have them at and "wow" they seemed like a whole different set of comps, very happy! Hoping I can really get them dialed in with my processor. :29:

 

I was looking at replacing the stock sub with an aftermark a while back. I found a ton of information on installing subs in the Audio & Electronics forum. I don't recall seeing posts specifically about 12" subs, but it might be worth a look.

 

I'll say it might be possible to fit a 12" in there with the second mdf ring cut larger to mount the 12" and also you'll need to cut a big whole on your right panel to let your sub stick out and probably make a custom cloth grill tape over, cuz you don't want to add a grill on top of the panel your head drest storage door will not open up. That was what I'm going to do to free up more space for my 10" sub to go in action without hitting agaist the panel.

 

I think I'm going to try a shallow mount 12" sub in the stock location. I just picked up 2 sets of Kicker KS62 6" components for the doors ($80 a pair, I couldn't afford not to!). Going to go with a 5 channel amp, do the "big three" and call it done.

 

A lot of good 5 channel amps out there. May I recommend a Arc Audio mini. It is a very powerful little amp and small enough you could mount it in your headrest compartment & still be able to store your headrest. A beautifully designed amp