Takes a bit more juice in the winter time to get vehicles started. If the battery is greater than 3-4 years old replace it or at least get the battery load tested. Local auto parts stores like Advance / Autozone can check the battery. With a 17 yr old vehicle make sure the connections + and - are solid from end to end as a good positive is only as good as a good negative.

 

All the windows radio lights etc work really well

 

This could be starter brushes are wearing out and causing an intermittent start. The other possible suspect is the starter solenoid is worn. The "fix" for this is usually the "tap"/vibration test that you did with the starter. You might want to look into a starter replacement.

 

It's weird that it didn't make a clicking noise usually that a starter makes when it's bad

 

Make sure you have a long breaker bar for removing the two starter bolts. That’s the toughest part of the job.

 

As always, make sure your ground cables are in good shape as well.

Get it running and have your battery tested, it maybe dying as others have posed.

 

As always, make sure your ground cables are in good shape as well.

Get it running and have your battery tested, it maybe dying as others have posed.

Ever since I tapped the starter it hasnt given me issues.
Ill test the battery

 

If the starter is the original it’s on borrowed time. Even if it’s not the original it still sounds like it’s on borrowed time as long as the battery doesn’t turn out to be the culprit.

Both times the starter went out on our Pilot it gave us a couple months warning, which allowed me to change it in the garage instead of being stranded on the road. If you’re planning to keep the Pilot for a while go with a new or remanufactured OEM unit. The aftermarket one I replaced the original with only lasted three years. That was a Duralast from Autozone.

 

Could it be the neutral safety switch??

 

Probably not

 

Next time it doesn’t start in Park try starting it in neutral. If it starts in neutral it might be worthwhile investigating the neutral safety switch. I believe Honda calls it the transmission range sensor.

 

I did try in neutral that day and still didn't turn on

 

If you tap a starter and it works, it’s on it’s last legs. This is shade tree mechanics 101. Just replace it.

 

Just curious - but why do some of you suggest the battery when the OP rapped the starter and it turned over?

I can follow the logic of saying inspect all the connections (there could be a loose connection at the starter), but if there’s not enough CCA in the battery then knocking the starter isn’t magically going to produce more juice or make it flow better.

Starters often don’t give a warning - feel lucky you got one and change it. In my experience, you typically only get 1-2 good knocks and then it’s completely dead…

 

Agree with your logic and the threads focus onto the starter but eliminating a few variables on an old 2005 is also a prudent move .

Looking forward to discussions on remanufactured/rebuilt vs new parts like the starter. With non-OEM parts being mostly imported I'd prefer doing the job less frequently.

 

Hi. That’s a common problem with starters. When they are old the brushes that run on the commutator on the rotor inside are worn. Sometimes the brushes won’t touch so taking a hammer and hitting it will allow the brushes to touch. That’s why you didn’t get the ticking sound. I don’t know if the brushes can be changed on that model starter but you either changed the brushes or get a new starter. Good luck.

 

I have and use a multimeter, but I've also added this gadget to the front not-a-cigarette-lighter port, which provides me with constant voltage info in the comfy, warm, windless confines of sitting in my heated driver's seat.

It also charges my phone(s). There are various iterations available, e.g...

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There's even one which will inexpensively and easily links your phone to your audio system via Bluetooth and FM. I gave one to my daughter.

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I haven't heard of "bump" starting a starter in maybe 20 years. This used to be an easy fix for starter selonoids back in the 1950 and 60's. I used to have a 1960 Dodge Dart that had a sticky starter selonoid. I carried a cut-off section of broom handle in my car to tap the selonoid. I don't know if starters still have selonoids!

 

A solinoid is just an electrically operated heavy duty switch to handle the amperage of the starter. Ford's are on the firewall, others on the starter. Rock Auto list the solinoid price at $189.00.
Starters go from $82 up to $160. Looks like solinoid is included.

 

You can have a problem with the solenoid, that produces the ""click" you are used to hearing. No click usually means a bad solenoid, or a bad starter. Check the battery voltage when the engine is running, should be about 13.5 volts. Load test the battery as well if you have such a tester. If not check the voltage with the engine off. If it is below 12 volts, you have a bad cell and the battery needs to be replaced. Bad cells often happen when the battery freezes due to a weak or failed alternator, but if the battery voltage is 13.5 when running, the alternator is fine..

If the battery is fine, the problem is likely the solenoid. The solenoid is part of the starter, so you are likely going to need a new starter soon enough. When it gets cold, the solenoid, esp if it is well used can get sketchy on engaging. You can also have issues where the solenoid works, but the starter wont turn. This happens when the motor brushes get worn and/or the commutator gets trashed.

 

More anecdotal evidence: Last summer I had a period of 2 days (maybe 5 total starts) where I had to bang on the starter with a cut off ski pole. Haven't had the issue since.

I'll probably just get the starter replaced next time I have that issue.

--Chris N.

 

No! Unlike for me, it's giving you fair warning. Do it on your own terms.

 

I have a 4.3L V6 Mercury Marine boat engine which usually has "starter problems" in the Spring. In this case it is a separate solenoid mounted on the top of the engine. Because it sits for 7 months without use, the contacts in the solenoid can oxidize thereby increasing the resistance. The solenoid must supply a high current to rotate the starter. A high resistance can reduce that current to near zero. I have found that rapidly cycling the starter button, i.e., hammering the solenoid can break the oxidation layer and start the engine. Usually, it is then good for the season.

 

Just had a similar issue. Look at your wires that run from the battery, or from the body to the block. They most likely are corroding. I initially heard the click, then no click, thought it was a battery after a long time sitting due to working from home. Later found the cable from the body to the block had just corroded away. Changed that which was a bit of a hassle as the connection to the block was rusted. The images show the replacement cable used next to the corroded cable, followed by the rusty bracket on the block, where to the lower left is the terminal from the original cable which I could not remove and lastly the fix.

 

Just had a similar issue. Look at your wires that run from the battery, or from the body to the block. They most likely are corroding. I initially heard the click, then no click, thought it was a battery after a long time sitting due to working from home. Later found the cable from the body to the block had just corroded away. Changed that which was a bit of a hassle as the connection to the block was rusted. The images show the replacement cable used next to the corroded cable, followed by the rusty bracket on the block, where to the lower left is the terminal from the original cable which I could not remove and lastly the fix.

Nice fix. I’ve used 4 or 6 gauge replacements for the ground wires on the Pilot. On a different vehicle the OEM woven ground strand replacement cable is already starting to corrode again.

 

I have the exact same problem 2005 Honda Pilot, jump started two days ago, two days later nothing. It will jump and be good for a couple of days but if I don't start it every day at least once the process starts over. No clicking, nothing.

 

Start by getting the battery load tested and charging system inspected. Local auto parts store usually offer this service with their diagnostic tools. Post up what they find plus any codes.

 

It would probably be a good idea to get the battery tested at an auto parts store just to quickly rule that out just in case but... (if your battery tests and is failing per their equipment I would recommend getting a replacement from Costco, they sell Duracells usually I believe the group size for the pilot is $85-100 or and Everstart from Walmart, just got one last year and it was about $87. I wouldn't recommend Duralast batteries any more, the price increases made them uncompetitive to my previous two options.)

Anyways, from what you're describing its most likely (I'd wager) the starter or starter solenoid. In my experience its usually the solenoid failing rather than the starter brushes being that worn (or having serious corrosion). Either way a new or reman starter (an assy will come with the solenoid as well) is pretty cheap and should fix the issue either way. You can get a new AcDelco starter assy for around $125 and a reman Denso for around $111 after core... the choice is yours, the starters are seriously quite easy to replace on these. Even if you're not that confident if you get someone with some basic skills they could help you out and save you some money from a shop or dealer.

Ac Delco starter assy (new)

More Information for ACDELCO 3371124

Denso starter assy (reman)

More Information for DENSO 2806000

See this video (rough replacement guide)

Good luck

 

the starters are seriously quite easy to replace on these

But it's accessing it that's the real knuckle scraper. 😣