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Wax comment`

I've spent lots of money trying diferent waxes. In 1990, i bought my first black car and swore by standard Maquires classic red in the maroon bottle. Used it for 8 years, my only deviation being Zymol, which for some reason I never used again. (guess I thought it was hard to take off). Then I tried Maguires Gold. Wow...went on easier than classic red, came off easy, less dust, better shine....all on a black car. Next time I waxed....I did both cars....a black Grand Cherokee with Maguires Gold and a Sienna Minivan with Maguires classic red.
Gold was easier to use. Both beaded. However in 4-6 weeks, gold stopped beading and red was STILL beading. I though Gold was a "durability" ripoff, so I wrote Maguires. They said " Gold was not intended to bead....but rather to "sheet". I still use it but question if beading vs Sheeting has any durability merrit or is just BS. FYI, Maguires offered me a refund...but I did not take them up on it.
 

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Re: Wax comment`

mikmax1 said:
I've spent lots of money trying diferent waxes. In 1990, i bought my first black car and swore by standard Maquires classic red in the maroon bottle. Used it for 8 years, my only deviation being Zymol, which for some reason I never used again. (guess I thought it was hard to take off). Then I tried Maguires Gold. Wow...went on easier than classic red, came off easy, less dust, better shine....all on a black car. Next time I waxed....I did both cars....a black Grand Cherokee with Maguires Gold and a Sienna Minivan with Maguires classic red.
Gold was easier to use. Both beaded. However in 4-6 weeks, gold stopped beading and red was STILL beading. I though Gold was a "durability" ripoff, so I wrote Maguires. They said " Gold was not intended to bead....but rather to "sheet". I still use it but question if beading vs Sheeting has any durability merrit or is just BS. FYI, Maguires offered me a refund...but I did not take them up on it.
Hey mikmax1,

I've been a long time user of Meguiar's waxes too. I started out with their Cleaner Wax in the red bottle, and I've also used their Carnuba, which I really liked. Lately, I've been using the Gold Class also. I've never taken notice to beading vs. sheeting, but I did put a coat on the Pilot this weekend, so I'll have to pay closer attention if it ever decides to rain around here again.

I must admit that I was astonished at the results using the Gold Class on the Pilot. With it being so new, I figured it wouldn't make much of a difference, but I was quite impressed. Maybe its just in my head, but you should see the wonderful reflection on my Sandstone. I don't think it was as reflective when we drove it off the lot? I think it also really improved the sparkle of the metallic flecks in the paint. If you've never seen the Sandstone in the bright sun, you're really missing out - so many wonderful golden metallic flecks of paint sparkle everywhere!

I'm going to use the Meguiars 3 step process on the Accord this weekend - cleaner/body scrub/clay bar/ScratchX, polish and wax. Its really in need of some attention, especially with winter coming, and I've got lots of tree sap and acid rain marks, especially on the hood, roof and trunk. I'm half tempted to try the Zaino one of these days since Black Currant is a darker color, and it seems that's where Zaino really shines! But I've had great results from the 3 step process on the Black Currant also.

I'm kind of curious if the Gold Class falls into the traditional wax category, because the back refers to special polishes and polymers. I've always heard the term "polymer" to refer to the Zaios, Nu Finishes, etc. with people indicating they hold up longer than regular waxes.

Here is a picture of my Sandstone after Meguiar's Gold Class wax this weekend. I'm sold on the results, but what does everyone else think?
 

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SoapPlant,

I'm a Meguiar's fan as well, and have used the Gold Class wax on my Pilot. But the first time I used S100 wax, I honestly went back into the garage and threw away my half used Gold Class. The S100 goes on and comes off much easier, doesn't taint the black trim, doesn't leave any white residue in the cracks, and has a finish like you wouldn't believe. When I look out onto my hood from the drivers seat, it looks as if it's a colored liquid that you could dip your hand into. It's simply amazing stuff. I still use Meguiar's for most of my other needs, but S100 wax has won me over.

Chris
 

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xyzzy said:
SoapPlant,

I'm a Meguiar's fan as well, and have used the Gold Class wax on my Pilot. But the first time I used S100 wax, I honestly went back into the garage and threw away my half used Gold Class. The S100 goes on and comes off much easier, doesn't taint the black trim, doesn't leave any white residue in the cracks, and has a finish like you wouldn't believe. When I look out onto my hood from the drivers seat, it looks as if it's a colored liquid that you could dip your hand into. It's simply amazing stuff. I still use Meguiar's for most of my other needs, but S100 wax has won me over.

Chris
Hey Chris,

Your information is always very credible in the group, so you've got my attention now. Tell me more about this S100 - who makes it, how much, can I get it in a store or do I have to order it, etc. I searched for older posts, but didn't come up with anything on this one. Is it a single step process or a multi step process?

Funny, the Meguiar's Gold Class says, and I quote "It glides on and off easily..."! I didn't have a particularly hard time with it, but I've had easier with their Carnuba, which I thought was an extremely light and easy wax to work with. I'm not sure if its just the Sandstone color that made it difficult to pick up, but I thought maybe it was a little tough putting it on. Coming off was OK with a terry cloth towel - not much residue left behind. Their Cleaner Wax is usually a tough one because it bonds to all the contaminants and makes it a little more work to take off. I've got like a bottle and a half around here, so I'll probably use that up first.

I also didn't notice much residue in the cracks, but this time I put it on by hand and took it off by hand. Previously I used a Black & Decker Handy Buffer, and you're right - it created way too much dust!

So if you say its a winner, then I'll try it. Just point me in the right direction!
 

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S100/P21S is the same stuff. Commonly the highest-rated carnauba product. Pinnacle Sovereign is way up there, too, both in rank and price.

You might be interested in www.waxtest.org

They did a comprehensive test of about $2k worth of waxes and polymers. Unfortunately, they now charge for the report...it used to be free.

As I recall S100/P21S was the top-rated carnauba and Zaino was the top-rated Polymer. Most name brand products (except the hardware store brands like Turtle Wax, etc) did well, but the P21S and Zaino were @ the top by a good margin, for looks and longevity.
 

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They market the stuff under the name P21S for cars, but market it as S100 in motorcycle shops. It's actually pretty hard to find the P21S anywhere locally and they want $25 for a can. Under the name S100 you can find it at any local Harley Davidson shop and it sells for $15 for the same sized can. As Worm points out, it's a carnuba. Because of this, it won't give you the longevity of Zaino and other polymers (not by a long shot), or even the longevity of Meguiar's #26 paste (widely hailed as Meguiar's longest lasting carnuba), but the type of shine of the S100 is exactly what I was looking for. My personal opinion is that while Zaino looks great on some colors (ligher colors & black), it creates too much of a mirror on some finishes (typically the darker colors other than black). I know that sounds odd, but it seems to reflect right at the paint surface and doesn't give you a good look at the depth of some paints. A good carnuba will create that "deep pool" of color look that I was after. Again, this look is achieved at the cost of longevity. I plan to hit the Pilot with a coat of S100 about every 8 weeks. You might need to reapply more frequently than that in severe climates.

Another great thing that I like about the S100 is the speed of application and removal. You apply it and wipe it right off. I don't even do an entire panel at a time because it's easiest to work with if you remove it just before it starts to haze over. It honestly took me less than half the time to wax with S100 than it did with the Meguiar's Gold Class. Speed is also gained because of the fact that you don't have to be careful around any of the trim. It just wipes right off.

So, my typical wax routine is:

Wash - Meguiar's Gold Class
Polish - Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
Wax - S100

In the winter I might consider using Meguiar's #26 wax for it's durability (the Autopians seem to really love the mileage they get out of it). If/when I need to clay, I'll use the Mother's clay bar.

All of this said, I think that dark paints benefit the most from the deep look of a carnuba wax. Lighter colors (like your gold) seem to look great no matter what type of wax you choose (lucky you). Your results might not be as drastic as mine (Evergreen), but you'll definitely feel the difference and see it on closer inspection. Good luck.

Hope this helps,
Chris
 

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P&S Sales

Just want to find out if anybody had any long term use of products from P&S Sales? www.pssales.com These products are used by auto dealers and professional detailers. I've tried out the Hi-Tone Glaze and Urethane Paint Sealer, and I got very satisfying results.
 

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xyzzy said:

So, my typical wax routine is:

Wash - Meguiar's Gold Class
Polish - Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
Wax - S100
Chris
I was thinking -- if you want the best of the
both worlds, you could do Klasse AOI followed
by S100. Klasse will last at least 6 month and
seal the paint, while
S100 you can then use anytime you feel like --
purely for looks. S100 bonds to Klasse nicely.
 

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Found the S100 at the local Harley Shop for $14.99 just like you said! Might hold off and use up some of the other stuff I have in the closet first, and then pick this up next time?

Found an interesting link that pretty much confirms your observations:

http://www.properautocare.com/whichwaxisbest.html

Carnauba waxes vs synthetic (polymer) waxes

Both types of products have advantages and disadvantages. Before you decide on a wax here are some things to consider:

Carnauba Waxes

Advantages:
- A darker, deeper, richer shine.
- Best carnauba waxes produce a liquid, "wet-looking" surface.
- Carnauba waxes tend to hide minor swirls.
- Carnauba waxes bead water (tells user when to re-wax surface).


Disadvantages:
- Limited durability (Carnauba starts to melt at 180 degrees F). 50% gone in 30 days, 75% gone in 60 days, re-wax in 90 days.
- Some carnauba waxes harder to apply. (Require more effort to buff off).
- Some carnauba waxes create chalky- white residues and stain trim moldings.
- Low surface adhesion - can be removed by car washes and detergents.
- More prone to water spots.
- Usually requires a strong petroleum solvent base.
- Can cloud and/or streak on dark color cars.
- Can be difficult to apply by machine.


Polymer Waxes

Advantages:
- Longer lasting. (Most will last six months or longer)
- Easy to apply.
- Very bright shine.
- Some synthetic waxes sheet water which reduces water spots.
- Stronger surface adhesion resists detergents.
- Usually easy to apply by machine.
- Can be water-based or use a mild mineral spirit.


Disadvantages:
- Bright shine is often referred to as sterile, lacking emotion. (it does not allow the paints true pigment to show through)
- Tends to high light or amplify minor swirls and paint imperfections.
- Sheeting does not give a visual clue of when to recoat.
- Some products have long cure times between coats.
 

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While I am not yet sold on Zaino 100%, I will add that the last Dis-adavantage listed for the Polymers is solved (at least for Zaino) by using their ZFX additive.
 

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I used the Zaino products for the first time this past weekend on my white '93 Acura Legend and I just had to let people know I'm sold on the stuff. It went on easy, though there are many steps involved. Wash, clay bar, wash, Z5 application, polish, Z2 application, polish, Z2 application, polish.

The shine on the Acura's eleven-year-old paint is unbelievable. And the surface feels extremely smooth and clean to the bare hand. As typically happens, it rained the following day. The water beaded like crazy.

Bottom line: takes some time to apply, but not hard to do. Shines and beads water as well as wax but last longer!

I can't wait to apply this stuff to my Nighthawk Black Pearl Pilot! I take delivery THIS FRIDAY! Yooohoooo!
 

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Zaino results on Black Pilot

You'll love the results on your black Pilot when you apply the Zaino. Took delivery of mine in Late May and immediately applied Mothers - looked fine, had been using it for a while on my other vehicles, moved on. Began reading about Zaino on the website here and decided to give it a try. It'll take you a while to do it right, but you'll love the results:

For me, I used:

Clay Bar, Z5, Z5, Z6, Z2, Z6 Z2 ( I think I'm remembering that right)

The Z5 removed the rub marks on the hood I got from my factory nose mask, and the Z2 - Z6 combo really sets off the shine. Will apply another couple of coats of Z2/Z6 before winter.

PS The nose mask rub came from a 1000 mile trip made a week after we took delivery, haven't used it again 'till I took a 200 mile trip this past weekend. I only use it for significant highway driving. I'll be removing it tonight as we're expecting rain and will be curious to see if the rub has reappeared. I am hoping the Zaino provides a certain amount of extra protection.
:4:
 

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Zaino'd Today

Last week I received my Zaino total protection kit. Today was the first time I had the time to try it. I only had time to wash and apply one coat of Z5. I found the Z5 a bit difficult to completely remove than most other polishes I've used. For one thing, it's a little hard to see on the car. It took a lot of buffing to remove all the streaks. But I moved the car into Sun to make sure I got 'em all and there is a noticeable difference after only one coat. In a couple weeks I'll do it again and give it two coats of Z2 with the ZFX.

I also tried the California Water Blade for the first time. A lot of folks here rave about it but I was a little disappointed. It removes most of the water, but I still had to chamois. Particularly useful on the roof where a lot of water stays. Instead of wringing out the chamois 5 or 6 times, I only had to do it twice.
 

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Zaino Question

For those of you who have used the Zaino product, two questions:

1 - know that great feeling after a claybar treatment and a wax job? Does Zaino give that same "soft" feel?

2 - Does Zaino resist surface contamination better than wax? Know how after a few weeks, you can feel the contaminants begin to embed themselves into the surface? Do you notice an improvement in the ability of Zaino to resist surface contamination?

Thanks for sharing your Zaino experiences.
 

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Re: Zaino Question

sfhondapilot said:
For those of you who have used the Zaino product, two questions:

1 - know that great feeling after a claybar treatment and a wax job? Does Zaino give that same "soft" feel?

2 - Does Zaino resist surface contamination better than wax? Know how after a few weeks, you can feel the contaminants begin to embed themselves into the surface? Do you notice an improvement in the ability of Zaino to resist surface contamination?

Thanks for sharing your Zaino experiences.
I've never used Zaino, and after reading the posts, probably won't. I think a Meguiar's clay bar, followed by Eagle One Polish is much easier, and yields the same results as the Meguiar's Gold Class pictured earlier. Zaino just seems to be too expensive, and too much work.
 

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Re: Zaino Question

sfhondapilot said:
For those of you who have used the Zaino product, two questions:

1 - know that great feeling after a claybar treatment and a wax job? Does Zaino give that same "soft" feel?

2 - Does Zaino resist surface contamination better than wax? Know how after a few weeks, you can feel the contaminants begin to embed themselves into the surface? Do you notice an improvement in the ability of Zaino to resist surface contamination?

Thanks for sharing your Zaino experiences.
I would say yes to both. Especially if you use the Z6 between washes.

After the initial clay/wash/z1 treatment, the Zaino is not difficult or complicated to use. It's just a matter of washing and drying as normal, then apply z2, let dry and wipe off with terry towel. Follow it up with the z6 which is just spray on, wipe off. It lasts much longer than carnuba wax so you wouldn't need to reapply as often. (but most people continue to add the z2)

They problem a lot of people have with Zaino is applying too much product which does make it difficult to come off. But that is true for most products.

The S100 looks great too and I know people that have topped the Zaino with it. It just doesn't last as long applied alone.
 

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Second Treatment

A couple weeks ago I applied a coat of Z5 polish. Looked great. Took the time today to give my Pilot a soup-to-nuts Zaino treatment:
  • Wash with Z7 Show Car Wash.
  • Dry with the Coli-fawnya (as Arnold would say) Water Blade and a good chamois.
  • Rain-X'd all the windows.
  • First coat of Z2 polish with ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator.
  • Wipe with Z6 Gloss Enhancer.
  • Second coat of Z2 with ZFX.
WHEW!

The only thing in the kit I haven't used is the clay bar. Results are fantastic, but way, way, WAY too much work. This had better last the entire winter.

I'm pooped.:23:
 

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I am now a happy Zaino customer.

No pictures to post, they look like all the others.

After doing my 1998 Accord and my 2004 Pilot, I am simply amazed at the quality of the shine. I will continue to use this product for a long time to come.
 
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