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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These damn video's make everything look soo simple and the fast forwarding is a cheap parlor trick that I am now realizing I fell for.

I feel like I covered my basis over the winter watching every video and ordering tools/parts to completely revamp my suspension. Well it did not go as smooth as I thought or would have liked, like at all.

Started last Wednesday getting stuck on the rear stabilizer links, damn clamp wrench kept slipping. Postponed by rain until that Friday when I finally got to removing the bearings. On recommendations from YouTube I picked up a bearing press out kit, OEM Tools. Well..... Being a scrawny fook I had a crazy difficult time getting that first bearing out, maybe like a day and a half until I decided to go buy a HF 12 ton shop press, which I don't have room for. Wrestled with getting the rear lined up as the trailing arm bolts weren't meshing. After staring at it for a couple hours not understanding I realized my jack that I was using to compress the suspension had pulled the lower arm a few inches making nothing line up.

Finally get the last rear wheel all said and done, go to put on the rotor and notice, the stupid bearing clip sitting next to the rotor! Needless to say another $80 later at autozone I had that fixed. Now we are at like Tuesday and I'm getting to the front but of course the freaking axle was seized to the hub. With no air tools I was stuck again til next day when I had a friend air hammer it out. Button up the front driver side and move over to the FP on Thursday. Started well, axle wasn't stuck and hub came out easy. Strut bolts were giving me trouble so I heated them up, well the moron I am I melted a hole into the axle boot! And again back to the parts store to fix a F'up but they didn't have a replacement boot til next Tues so I bought a new axle @ $80. Go home, paint the control arm and press in all the bushings and ball joint (bought a greasable unit, did I make a mistake?) Move over to the wheel bearing, out and in fine but again the moron I am forgot to brace the back race when pressing the hub and screwed another bearing! Traded 2 $50 Timken bearings for crap duralast stuff. So after all this, today, I went to remove the axle w/ melted boot to find it frozen to the intermediate shaft. No room to pry back there with the exhaust pipe in the way so I decided to remove the inner boot and try working at it from there. Did that, laid out a plastic bag to catch grease, sprayed w/ brake cleaner to clean up my working area. Decided maybe it needs heat, then..... Boom, flames everywhere! Everything the bag caught went up in flames! Almost couldn't get it out. Melted at least 1 wire and burned the crap outta my oil filter, hopefully that's all the damage done.

Now I'm still stuck with a frozen inner axle shaft and intermediate shaft. Hopefully I get to a buddies tomorrow so I can either press out or use a vise. I was able to remove the intermediate shaft from the diff but inner of the axle is still stuck.

I'm left feeling like maybe this was a bad decision attempting this all myself. If it weren't for a buddy I'd would have ended up at a shop paying a bill either way. I mean freakin 9 days later I will have a job done that would take a capable person 1 1/2 days to do.... I still have time to return most of these specialty tools.

Moral of the story..... Don't be fooled by YouTube!
 

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Well it did not go as smooth as I thought or would have liked
Welcome to real life. It's not just the swearing youtubers edit out of their videos.

Be sure not to like, share and subscribe.馃が
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to real life. It's not just the swearing youtubers edit out of their videos.

Be sure not to like, share and subscribe.馃が
It's sooo true. For everything they show how to do there are 5 ways for it to go wrong they don't explain or just speak of these pia issues like they are just nothing. Hopefully when I get everything buttoned up, aligned and driving smooth I'll rethink returning everything but as of right now I want to delete every YouTube mechanic account!!!
 

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Banned from wife鈥檚 2005 Pilot LX
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Just like any mechanic, now you have a better understanding how to do something right as well as some of the things which can go wrong. I鈥檒l bet if you had to do the job a second time that it would go a lot smoother. Way to hang in there and keep battling through the issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the kind words.... I got the inner axle end off the intermediate shaft! Now to reinstall axle old shock and knuckle so I can pull the bearing I screwed up out and re press new one in (correctly). Then just gotta get new shock in button everything up and flush the brake fluid before I throw on the new calipers, rotors and pads. Hopefully I can accomplish this all tomorrow and be ready for my alignment/balance appointment Monday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ohh crap!... I forgot about the wire I melted, idk what that's even too?... I'll post pics but it was just above the oil filter w/ green connector. My buddy said it might be an oil sensor? Any ideas?
 

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For everything they show how to do there are 5 ways for it to go wrong they don't explain or just speak of these pia issues like they are just nothing. Hopefully when I get everything buttoned up, aligned and driving smooth I'll rethink returning everything but as of right now I want to delete every YouTube mechanic account!!!
IMO it requires watching several similar u-tube videos to get the right solution to your unique problem. I can recall one tiny snip from one of the several u-tube videos I watched that solved my problem that was glossed over by everyone else. For example I'm no u-tuber nor a mechanic but I try to explain my trials+errors for solutions for the repairs/mods I get myself into with explanations and pictures to help Pilot owners on this forum with similar interests. Post a few pics of your past or current problems and solutions as fellow Piloteers may benefit from your experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And the story continues....

Got everything buttoned up and on 4 wheels today and headed out for alignment. Was feeling great. No bouncing of the shocks, no popping of ball joints, sturdy ride! Get about a mile from my house and BANG! GRIND! Pull over and see fluid leaking!?! Check tranny fluid and NONE. Truck wouldn't go into park and was making the worst sounds I ever heard. Call my master mechanic buddy and immediately tells me I didn't seat the drivers side axle fully and that's where the tranny fluid is coming from. Get picked up grab tools and go pull the wheel and knuckle on side of the road to see he was right. Cleaned out some metal filings where the axle meets diff/tranny, re installed axle and made sure I wacked the fooker in! Filled tranny fluid and THANK GOD no noise, shifts smooth as before and no vibration in that area. Now the truck is at shop getting alignment, balance, rotation and fixing a exhaust leak.

I really do wish I would have documented this better. Would have been a great teaching tool for anybody who came across it. I had every problem and f'up under the sun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not very happy with RockAuto at the moment. They sent me a strut w/ boot on backwards and a rear control arm that was opened outta the package and missing the protective cup around the ball joint. Now I'm hearing a clunk from the rear and had a squeak from the strut after a beach run.

Yes I should have known to check before installing but to be honest I had no idea what I was looking at until I was installing. Oh yea and I had returned a bushing that was broken from day 1. I think I'm better off with AutoZone from here on out. Just an FYI to all new wrenchers.
 

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Just to defend YouTube and RockAuto...., These have saved me thousand of dollars.
Just as @aggrex said, watch more than one YouTube video. I'll watch the same repair on different makes of Honda's just to see how others do something. Some ways better than others.
As for RockAuto, It's a love hate relationship. Most of the time, they have the best price. But you have to be extremely careful that your ordering the right part. You will pay to send it back. There will be times it's not worth sending back and you just have to eat it. If you do have a legit return, you best be careful on answering their questions or you will pay to return or they may reject your return. For example, if you discovered you ordered the wrong part after opening and tried to install, you will be rejected. They have the worst customer service ever in the history of mankind. They know it and could care less, because dummies like me want/need the price. But If they would fixed this, they would be a lot larger company than they are. I'm sure they've lost and will continue to loose lots of business because of it. I like their website, it's better than the box their competitors put you in. If I could fix one thing on the site is a separation of parts by model (like AWD/2WD). It's always best to cross reference your OEM part number to what you are ordering from them.
Sometimes it is better to buy from a local auto parts store, But you will likely pay a lot more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I was just frustrated but I did watch every vid, almost. Just that when you search axle install they get ya by showing you the smooth job not the stuck FML job lol. I have been watching the AMMO NYC channel for detailing. Jeeez this guy is the man! Explains everything in such great detail! I would encourage everyone to check him out, lots to learn from him......


On the RockAuto front. Yes I think they lost a customer in me. I was denied a claim when I messed up the questions on a part. The whole no customer service is a joke and not worth the hassle. AutoZone for one will take just about anything back and prices aren't terrible when you factor in the membership rewards and coupons. I found a actual parts center in my area that deals with the shops. Prices as good as Rock just he doesn't give me options unless I ask, goes right to low mid range. I won't even contact Rock about the shock, gonna go direct to KYB and Mevotech about the rear control arm clunk.

Again this was avoidable if I knew what I was looking at/for but none the less a severe hassle.
 

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Yes I was just frustrated but I did watch every vid, almost. Just that when you search axle install they get ya by showing you the smooth job not the stuck FML job lol. I have been watching the AMMO NYC channel for detailing. Jeeez this guy is the man! Explains everything in such great detail! I would encourage everyone to check him out, lots to learn from him......


On the RockAuto front. Yes I think they lost a customer in me. I was denied a claim when I messed up the questions on a part. The whole no customer service is a joke and not worth the hassle. AutoZone for one will take just about anything back and prices aren't terrible when you factor in the membership rewards and coupons. I found a actual parts center in my area that deals with the shops. Prices as good as Rock just he doesn't give me options unless I ask, goes right to low mid range. I won't even contact Rock about the shock, gonna go direct to KYB and Mevotech about the rear control arm clunk.

Again this was avoidable if I knew what I was looking at/for but none the less a severe hassle.
As time goes on, hopefully the big parts stores will continue to ease up on their pricing. They are already offering % off when purchasing online. I will say I'm buying "mostly" dummy proof maintainace items from RockAuto. Timing Belt Water Pump Kit, Spark Plugs, Sensors, Belts, Hoses Oil and Air filters etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can anyone tell me if I'm supposed to have the truck running when doing brake flush or can it be done off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I seen a vid where the guy disconnects the neg terminal from battery, why would he do that to flush brake fluid?
 

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Can anyone tell me if I'm supposed to have the truck running when doing brake flush or can it be done off?
Off.
You know there is a sequence, right? Just checking.
 

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I seen a vid where the guy disconnects the neg terminal from battery, why would he do that to flush brake fluid?
I've never done this for this job. Did he give a reason?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Of course he didn't, it was a YouTube video lol.... I'm doing now, no power working fine so far. Dirty Dot 3 going out and clean Dot 4 going in!.... About to change out calipers next.
 

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Of course he didn't, it was a YouTube video lol.... I'm doing now, no power working fine so far. Dirty Dot 3 going out and clean Dot 4 going in!.... About to change out calipers next.
What bleeding sequence are you using? Just checking. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I heard of the FL FR RR RL sequence but I just went ahead with the pass rear, driver rear, front pass, front driver. Just got done with the flush and throwing on the fronts, so far all clear fluid when bleeding. Got dark here so moving to the rear tomorrow.
 
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