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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well after searching for about a month or so I finally purchased a 2007 Honda Pilot 2WD EX-L w/RES Black on grey leather w/124K. I ended up having to drive 3.5 hrs away to Atlanta in order to pick up the color, features, price and mileage I would accept :laugh:. Carfax(unlimited VIN check $54.95) checked out ok on it and the pre-purchase inspection at the Honda dealer($129.99) wasn't bad at all other than general maintenance. 1st order of business after getting it home was new tires. Front tires were shot with decent tires on the back that were loud. I have employee discount so all cars in our family roll on Bridgestones.

I have compiled a list of things that I want done asap. If I am leaving anything out please let me know.

Thanks!

I am doing preventive maintenance and if anyone could tell me if I'm missing anything I would greatly appreciated it.

1. New tires Bridgestone Dueller H/L Ecopia - Done
2. Aisin Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit W0133-1840073 $201.48 Done
[FONT=&quot]3. Koyo Radiator [/FONT]W0133-1959288 $120.48 (I figured why buy the same Denso that had problems. I've had Koyo in my Acura Legend and it hasn't given me any problems) Done
[FONT=&quot]4. Upper Radiator Hose 19501-RDJ-000 $13.58 [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]5. Lower Radiator Hose 19502-RDJ-000 $13.58 [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]6. Thermostat 19301-P8E-A10 $30.48 [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]7. PCV Valve 17130-RCA-A02[/FONT] $18.65 Done
[FONT=&quot]8. Drive Belt 38920-RCA-A03 $31.54 [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]9. 6pk Oil filters 15400-PLM-A02 X6 $28.80 [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]10. PS Fluid 08206-9002 $ 3.38 (2) [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]11. Brake Fluid 08798-9008 $ 4.60 (3) [/FONT]Done
[FONT=&quot]12. Type 2 Coolant 0L999-9011 $15.00 (2) [/FONT]Done
13. Castrol 0w20 oil $22.97 Done
14. NGK spark plugs 3657 $51.84 ($8.64 each) Done
15. Valvoline Max life (on recommendation of fourms) $17.97 gallon
 

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The only thing I would say is at 124K it is time for a high mileage oil (personal choice). These engines can have a problem with the rear main seal starting to leak around 150k miles.
 

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Looks like you've been doing your homework, great! :29:

Maybe add air filter and cabin filter, and you get an A+.
 

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Well after searching for about a month or so I finally purchased a 2007 Honda Pilot 2WD EX-L w/RES Black on grey leather w/124K.

1st order of business after getting it home was new tires. Front tires were shot with decent tires on the back that were loud. I have employee discount so all cars in our family roll on Bridgestones.

I have compiled a list of things that I want done asap. If I am leaving anything out please let me know.
I am doing preventive maintenance and if anyone could tell me if I'm missing anything I would greatly appreciated it.

1. New tires Bridgestone Dueller H/L Ecopia - Done

15. Castrol Transmax Import $50.88 ($4.24 each)
Do you have any previous experience using the Castrol ATF in a Honda - and especially a Pilot?
If not, you might consider using either the Honda branded fluid or Valvoline Max-Life ATF, which others on this board have found to work well.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to change out all of the fluid, so if you find that the shifting performance with the Castrol fluid is unacceptable, you'll have to drain and refill the transmission about 4 times to replace most of the old fluid.

How did you decide between the Dueler H/L Ecopia and the Dueler H/L Alenza?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The only thing I would say is at 124K it is time for a high mileage oil (personal choice). These engines can have a problem with the rear main seal starting to leak around 150k miles.
Im a Castrol guy but haven't been able to find a high mileage 0W20 oil

Do you have any previous experience using the Castrol ATF in a Honda - and especially a Pilot?
If not, you might consider using either the Honda branded fluid or Valvoline Max-Life ATF, which others on this board have found to work well.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to change out all of the fluid, so if you find that the shifting performance with the Castrol fluid is unacceptable, you'll have to drain and refill the transmission about 4 times to replace most of the old fluid.

How did you decide between the Dueler H/L Ecopia and the Dueler H/L Alenza?
Ive used it in my Acura Legend with no problem but never in Honda Pilot.

Ecopia and Alenza are pretty much the same tire and were only dollars difference in price. I went with Ecopia bec they are "suppose to" provide better gas mileage. I'm going to ride them for a week or two(I hate loud tires) and if I like them I'll keep them....if not I'll probably put some Turanza's on.

Nice find. It looks to be in great shape. How much did you get it for?
$8,900
 

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Alignment check! Check condition of front LCA bushing and tie rod ends are tight. Why front tires shot but not rears? Many 2nd hand car dealers install new tires on cars with poor tire wear condition that comes from worn suspension components to cover up the worn suspension more than the tire wear itself. Our 08 Certified Used had bad rear thrust angle and toe right off the lot and until I smoked my new tires on a road trip to Oregon....did I stop to check the alignment.

The bad alignment corrected in after replacing front struts and rear shocks. Recently during the timing belt swap I saw the LCA compliance bushings were cracked, so later on during a rear main seal replacement (AAMCO) had the LCA with all new bushings and ball joints swapped in (they did it for free since LCAs come out as interference removal)....and good to go get your PCV replaced. My PCV was plugged shut, hence why the rear main seal popped out....and it was half out of the case according to the tech at AAMCO.....

Ride looks nice, but keeping it real with routine maintenance is only formula for many more miles. Enjoy!
 

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Thanks for the post, Xclusive. This tread is super helpful for new owners.

My Honda Pilot is also an '06, EX-L w/ Nav but with 4WD. I bought it in February with 85k miles on it and recently rolled over 90k. Went ahead an changed the TB/WP a bit early and flushed the power steering fluid that same week I bought it.

Fast forward six months later and after reading through the forums here and while I've had no problems to-date, I'll also be swapping in a new radiator and hoses and replacing the remaining fluids, new spark plugs and PCV valve.

Anything else come up after these initial repairs? Did you get the control arm bushings / alignment checked? I'll have my local shop take a look as well when I have it in for these repairs next week.
 

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Congrats on the Pilot purchase. If the water pump / timing belt kit doesn't come with the tensioner and pulleys you might add that to your list. Also vacuum the rear blower's lint screen (behind panel to right of driver's right foot) . . . I do that every 15K miles now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alignment check! Check condition of front LCA bushing and tie rod ends are tight. Why front tires shot but not rears? Many 2nd hand car dealers install new tires on cars with poor tire wear condition that comes from worn suspension components to cover up the worn suspension more than the tire wear itself. Our 08 Certified Used had bad rear thrust angle and toe right off the lot and until I smoked my new tires on a road trip to Oregon....did I stop to check the alignment.

The bad alignment corrected in after replacing front struts and rear shocks. Recently during the timing belt swap I saw the LCA compliance bushings were cracked, so later on during a rear main seal replacement (AAMCO) had the LCA with all new bushings and ball joints swapped in (they did it for free since LCAs come out as interference removal)....and good to go get your PCV replaced. My PCV was plugged shut, hence why the rear main seal popped out....and it was half out of the case according to the tech at AAMCO.....

Ride looks nice, but keeping it real with routine maintenance is only formula for many more miles. Enjoy!
Thanks for the post, Xclusive. This tread is super helpful for new owners.

My Honda Pilot is also an '06, EX-L w/ Nav but with 4WD. I bought it in February with 85k miles on it and recently rolled over 90k. Went ahead an changed the TB/WP a bit early and flushed the power steering fluid that same week I bought it.

Fast forward six months later and after reading through the forums here and while I've had no problems to-date, I'll also be swapping in a new radiator and hoses and replacing the remaining fluids, new spark plugs and PCV valve.

Anything else come up after these initial repairs? Did you get the control arm bushings / alignment checked? I'll have my local shop take a look as well when I have it in for these repairs next week.
Well doing pre-inspection for my Pilot I was told that there was a recall for compliance bushings up to 120k. I had 124k so was told they couldn't replace them but to contact Honda Corporate. I did contact them and got a call today saying that the recall was not true and unfortunately they would not replace the compliance bushings under the recall. Not really sure why I would be told this so another thing to add to my list and mines do have cracks and needs to be replaced.

Congrats on the Pilot purchase. If the water pump / timing belt kit doesn't come with the tensioner and pulleys you might add that to your list. Also vacuum the rear blower's lint screen (behind panel to right of driver's right foot) . . . I do that every 15K miles now.
My kit came with tensioners and pulleys...I think for all the labor that's being done its crazy not to replace them while its broken down. Will add the rear blower vent to my list as well.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
[FONT=&quot]Well I finally got my maintenance done on my pilot by my mechanic:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Timing belt/Water pump, idlers and tension bearings[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Drive belt[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Radiator, upper/lower radiator hoses, thermostat & new coolant[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Spark Plugs[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Oil/filter/air filter/PCV valve change[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Brake fluid changed[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Power Steering fluid changed[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Pilot was at 124k when I got it and I was really kind of worried about getting it changed ASAP. After buying a new vehicle the last thing I needed was the TB to break. Pics show the belt didn’t look to be in bad condition at all but I don’t mind spending the money for peace of mind. My mechanic did point out that my radiator was wet even though I wasn’t smelling coolant yet nor did the Honda dealership point this out during the pre-inspection. He also stated he does some type of folding the belt the in a U shape yada, yada, yada (which went over my head) and stated even though the timing belt looked fine that it did need to be changed if I planned on keeping the SUV. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Now I will say on purchasing items from the dealer I always get a contact who I can email and show them prices online of the items I can get cheaper. I have had good results with this from my previous BMW at their dealership and also with my local Honda dealership as well. Sometimes they aren't the exact same price but when you factor in shipping, etc. the dealers most of the times will meet or are very comparable in pricing.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Now one thing I found interesting on the Aisin kits was that for my 2007 Pilot it stated that you needed item # W0133-1840073-ASC & that item # TKH-002 would not fit. Depending on where you purchase your kit sometimes the TKH-002 kit is priced lower than the other kit. I had read in previous reviews that they were both the same kits once you received but didn’t want to take a chance since I was ordering it through the mail and wanted everything to be available. Well when the kit arrived, just as stated in the review, the item # W0133-1840073-ASC was marked as item # TKH-002. All of that said to maybe save some people some money down the road. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Hopefully I am ready to go another 100k now.[/FONT] [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]My mechanic gives me a great price on labor but I still like to work on my cars myself when not too involved and save a few dollars as well so next on my list which I will be doing myself are:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1. Replace power steering reservoir/cap[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2. Drain/fill transmission fluid 3x’s (exchanged Castrol for Valvoline since its seem to be proven here on the forums to work….it was cheaper as well)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]3. Front trans-case fluid[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]4. Cabin filter [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]5. Change power steering fluid O-ring 91345-RDA-A01 (should be “orange” not black)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]6. Rack rack end caps (I have a whistling sound that drives me crazy). I will replace the fronts first and if that doesn't work will work on changing the positions of crossbars and making sure they are installed correctly. Hard to believe they wouldn't be installed right on a 9 year car but I guess it is possible!
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Honda Cover front right [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Part#[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]75276-S9V-A10 $3.59[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Honda Cover front left [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Part#[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]75286-S9V-A10 $3.59[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Honda Cover rear right [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Part#[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]75278-S9V-A10 $3.59[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Honda Cover rear left [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Part#[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]75288-S9V-A10 $3.59[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

Also, if someone could help with what clips or rivets I need for the front seat rear cover. Its keeps fall off!

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok got my transmission drain/fill (1) done today. Pretty easy job and can't believe dealer wants $89.99 for the service. It appears this was the 1st transmission drain for my vehicle. Breaking the drain plug took a few minutes. After I couldn't break it with the socket (which I didn't have all the way in and almost started to strip it), I got it pushed all the way in and made a small breaker bar from some pvc pipe I had laying around. Once I had the leverage I was able to break it immediately. The top fill boat took two extensions put together and after a few tugs I was able to break it as well. Fluid wasn't black but it was dirty. Crush washer looked like it was fine but I went ahead and replaced it anways. Filled up with fluid and buttoned everything else back up and it was a wrap. Night time got upon me so I wasn't able to do the front transfer case so that shall be my quick project for tomorrow(plus I need to find a picture online exactly where its located and what I'm looking for).
 

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Good work. Yup, looks like she was due. I see you bought her Valvoline MaxLife ATF, my lady's drink of choice as well. :10:

Your experience is why it's a good idea to make sure you can get the fill bolt off first before removing the drain bolt, so that if ever the former won't come off, you're not up the proverbial tributary without a means of propulsion. :surprise: Maybe keep that in mind going forward, like when you do your transfer case up front, which takes SAE 90 or SAE 80W-90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API service classified GL4 or GL5 only .


 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Yesterday was 2nd drain/fill. Now the trans bolts(upper/lower) are broken this job goes by very easy. Ive been driving a week and then drain/refill so 3rd/final one for this svc(3 of 3) will be next weekend. When I got pre-inspection I was told my power steering pump was leaking and that I could have them reseal it ($135 or have them replace it for $347). I purchased the o-ring(orange) $.78 cents(if you have black o-ring it hasn't been replaced yet) and did the job myself. I had read previous threads of hard it was to get to the screw and buying specials tools, etc. This literally took me 5 minutes (10 minutes taking pics) and was done with a simple tools. I keep starting late in the day and lose daylight before I get the front transfer case done. I will try to do it again today :smile:
 

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Nice pics; here's the legendary vid. Never tire of hearing the guy say "pukin'" :smile:

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Checking back in after not being here for awhile. 2007 Honda Pilot still running strong. I've driven it a lot and have 255k on it. I haven't had any major problems at all since the last major TB/WP work. All I've done is scheduled oil changes, transmission fluid changes, tire change & replaced a battery. Other than scheduled maintenance I've done:

1. I had my alternator go out last week which thanks to the forum I was able to fix. Took a little longer than expected as I couldn't get the alternator back in until I took my sander and grinded some of the metal off of it.
2. Tailgate struts/hinges went out so went to the local pull a part yard today and got some off another 2007 Pilot and installed those today and was out $11.

Car is paid for and looks like I'm due for another TB/WP changes if I plan on keeping it. It is paid for, I still love it and don't want another car note. Minor issues I have now are:

1. check engine light is on so I will have codes pulled.
2. driver side seat rear panel still comes off from time to time so I am looking for another one now
3. transmission a few weeks ago would bog down when slowing down very quickly but it hasn't done it in awhile so not sure what that was about.
4. I have noticed if I got past time to get an oil change, if I have to slam on brakes real hard quickly, my VBS lights will come on. Whenever it does this, once the oil is changed it goes away and doesn't do it anymore.
5. my front end needs to be changed as I do notice if going over bumpy roads, its is noisy and I can feel every bump.

If I can get all of these taken care rather cheaply, I wouldn't mind putting the money into it and going for another 100k.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I’m back again. Pilot has been running with little to no problems at all. At the ultimate decision time. Way past 2nd time for TB/WP and debating whether to get it done and keep the Pilot or move on. At this point decision is kinda made for me and easy because it’s paid for and I don’t want another car note at this point.

The 07 Pilot has 298k and 1st TB/WP change was at 125k. It’s way overdue for what I call “overhaul” as I did when I first purchased the vehicle with 125k. Planned maintenance:
1. TB/WP (Aisin TKH-002)
2. Serpentine belt (Gates)
3. Radiator (Denso this time instead of Koyo so I can keep my orders down)
4. Upper/Lower radiator hoses (Gates)
5. Radiator cap (Honda)
6. PCV Valve(Honda)
7. Thermostat (Honda)
8. Transmission drain/fill(Valvoline)

My mechanic will do TB/WP change for a good price to me vs the time but I decided to save some labor charges and did the radiator, upper/lower hoses, thermostat, etc. Not to bad of a job as I’ve owned Honda/Acura’s all of my life so pretty easy and straightforward job(seems all Honda’s are pretty much the same). Got it all done and finished up with filling/burping the system with Lisle funnel.

I have one question if anyone can help. I attached the pic and can’t figure out where or how this goes. If anyone can send me a simple pic I would greatly appreciate it. Dropping Pilot off I’m the morning for TB/WP and them God willing plan on another 100k.
 

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That’s the bracket that holds the wiring fan wiring harness on the flat smooth part. It fits on the left or right hand side and supports one of your dangling harnesses. The screws fit against the core support.
 
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