Wrench/socket size of oil drain bolt?
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Thanks for the replies guys!
I also plan to use Mobil1.
Are there any warranty issues if you use a grade other than 10w30?
Isn't that what the Pilot takes?
I know most cars recommend several grades of oils, depending on what your temperatures will average. Mobil1 does not come in a 10w30, correct?
I also plan to use Mobil1.
Are there any warranty issues if you use a grade other than 10w30?
Isn't that what the Pilot takes?
I know most cars recommend several grades of oils, depending on what your temperatures will average. Mobil1 does not come in a 10w30, correct?
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166 Posts
First Oil Change (frequency thoughts)
I know there's another post with this tag-line ( http://www.honda-pilot.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1513 ), but this one's more active so I'm posting here.
First oil change is being performed by the dealer today (only second time in 20+ years of driving that I'm having it done, and that's only because it's free!) and spoke with the service adviser about frequency.
He agreed that they don't like to see the first oil change until 5K, and rattled-off the company line about special break-in additives, yadda, yadda, yadda. Personally, I disagree with that line, but didn't feel like getting into this discussion with him. I do know that dino-oils are almost always used during the break-in period, because their properties are better suited for this purpose.
Which brings me to oil selection. I use synthetic in my more 'abused' equipment (garden tractor, generator - both Honda, of course), and in my motorcycle (Goldwing - Honda, of course). If you look at OEM oil selection, synthetic is mainly used in the high performance vehicles - as much as we'd like to think otherwise, the Pilot isn't quite in that category. I use it in my motorcycle, because the oil is shared between the engine and transmission, and synthetic oils have given me better gear shifts. FWIW, I've noticed an increased idle speed whenever I use synthetic.
As for frequency, I used to use the 3K schedule, until I started reading things on other forums, and talked to an oil company representative. I've now switched to a 5K schedule, mostly because it's really easy to keep track of, but from what I've learned, even 7K to 10K is fine (for my driving). Since I change it myself, it costs about $5 per oil change, so the extra comfort I get out of 5K changes, is worth the small cost.
Usual disclaimers, as these are just my opinions, and your's may vary!
Ed F
H-Blue EX-L
I know there's another post with this tag-line ( http://www.honda-pilot.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1513 ), but this one's more active so I'm posting here.
First oil change is being performed by the dealer today (only second time in 20+ years of driving that I'm having it done, and that's only because it's free!) and spoke with the service adviser about frequency.
He agreed that they don't like to see the first oil change until 5K, and rattled-off the company line about special break-in additives, yadda, yadda, yadda. Personally, I disagree with that line, but didn't feel like getting into this discussion with him. I do know that dino-oils are almost always used during the break-in period, because their properties are better suited for this purpose.
Which brings me to oil selection. I use synthetic in my more 'abused' equipment (garden tractor, generator - both Honda, of course), and in my motorcycle (Goldwing - Honda, of course). If you look at OEM oil selection, synthetic is mainly used in the high performance vehicles - as much as we'd like to think otherwise, the Pilot isn't quite in that category. I use it in my motorcycle, because the oil is shared between the engine and transmission, and synthetic oils have given me better gear shifts. FWIW, I've noticed an increased idle speed whenever I use synthetic.
As for frequency, I used to use the 3K schedule, until I started reading things on other forums, and talked to an oil company representative. I've now switched to a 5K schedule, mostly because it's really easy to keep track of, but from what I've learned, even 7K to 10K is fine (for my driving). Since I change it myself, it costs about $5 per oil change, so the extra comfort I get out of 5K changes, is worth the small cost.
Usual disclaimers, as these are just my opinions, and your's may vary!
Ed F
H-Blue EX-L
Joined
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16 Posts
1. Anyone know what the recommended torque is on the honda oil drain bolt? Yes ... I could do it by "feel" ... but I have a nicce accurate torque wrench ... might as well use it.
2. Crush ring - I haven't changed the oil on the Pilot yet ... but on the S2000 I fould that the ring had 2 distinct sides. One side is very flat leading to a sharp edge. The other is a bit more "rounded" leading to a more smooth edge. The "flat" edge is what mated with the engine side. I assume the Pilot is the same.
2. Crush ring - I haven't changed the oil on the Pilot yet ... but on the S2000 I fould that the ring had 2 distinct sides. One side is very flat leading to a sharp edge. The other is a bit more "rounded" leading to a more smooth edge. The "flat" edge is what mated with the engine side. I assume the Pilot is the same.
Several things come to mind here.
If the original "break-in" oil indeed has a high level of molybdenum disulfide, that seems counter to allowing natural wear patterns to develop. Moly is an *anti-wear* additive. Seems that would inhibit such patterns from developing.
Synthetic is now standard from the factory on several vehicles, so this seems to contradict all the "legend" on it inhibiting proper break-in.
All very puzzling indeed. Me, I changed the oil at 2500 and it disturbed me waiting that long, I have always been a very early changer during break-in. I figure if the oil DID have some magical properties it was long enough, if it didn't, then it wasn't TOO long to wait.
Al
If the original "break-in" oil indeed has a high level of molybdenum disulfide, that seems counter to allowing natural wear patterns to develop. Moly is an *anti-wear* additive. Seems that would inhibit such patterns from developing.
Synthetic is now standard from the factory on several vehicles, so this seems to contradict all the "legend" on it inhibiting proper break-in.
All very puzzling indeed. Me, I changed the oil at 2500 and it disturbed me waiting that long, I have always been a very early changer during break-in. I figure if the oil DID have some magical properties it was long enough, if it didn't, then it wasn't TOO long to wait.
Al
Joined
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388 Posts
17mm is the same size as my acura v6..... sort of actually it seems a hair smaller yet it works fine a 16mm is to small no sae sizes seems to come as close as 17mm also the acura takes the same filter just started changing my own again after years of having the monkeys do it and the dealer is kinda far from our domocile. ALSO IF ANYBODY HAS ANY REAL DATA ON DIFFERENCES BEWTWEEN BRANDS OF OIL I WOIULD LIKE TO SEE IT(HAVE NOT SEARCHED THE SITE YET BUT I AM THINKING ITS FULL OF OPINIONS BASED ON GRAN PAPPYS THEORYS
I used to change the oil myself on my '81 Accord and '90 Trooper. The Trooper was so high off the grond that I could slide underneath without having to jack up the car or use ramps. For those who are changing the oil yourselves, do you need to raise the car somehow?
Thanks,
-shutrbug
Thanks,
-shutrbug
Joined
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393 Posts
Re: oil change was easy
I used Castrol GTX 5W20 and used the K&N Gold recommended filter (HP-1004, same as Odyssey) with no problem. Dang, that oil is thin!! Sounded like water pouring into the engine. Watch out when you loosen the drain plug because the oil shoots out fast. Didn't need to replace the crush washer though. I doubt you will have to replace it for a long time.
I was also able to change the oil without raising the Pilot. I did turn the front wheels all the way to the right so I could get to the oil filter easier from the side of the car. I needed the extra leverage since the gorillas on the assy line torqued it on tight as hell.:3:PILOTHEAD said:
I used Castrol GTX 5W20 and used the K&N Gold recommended filter (HP-1004, same as Odyssey) with no problem. Dang, that oil is thin!! Sounded like water pouring into the engine. Watch out when you loosen the drain plug because the oil shoots out fast. Didn't need to replace the crush washer though. I doubt you will have to replace it for a long time.
Joined
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388 Posts
Yeah i forgot you do have to turn the wheel to get at the filter
Crush washer I have not seen a strong case either way... have not noticed any leaks reusing not replacing but i have only done 1 so far
my goal is to be quick enough to get the drain bolt out without having the oil get on my hand ... i have not reached my goal yet
Crush washer I have not seen a strong case either way... have not noticed any leaks reusing not replacing but i have only done 1 so far
my goal is to be quick enough to get the drain bolt out without having the oil get on my hand ... i have not reached my goal yet
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