Wow. I was just under there changing the oil, and I can't say for sure. I think it was around a 14mm. This being the first time, I felt the bolt and grabbed few in that range to try.
Chris
Chris
Wrench/socket size of oil drain bolt?
What is the size in mm for a wrench or socket to use on removing and reinstalling drain plug for engine change?
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
I thought that it was the 17mm. Anyway, it definitely is either 14,15, or 17.
drain plus size for engine oil
I am anticipating my own oil and filter change. I tried a l6mm socket and it didn't seem to slip. Well, we got a "range" of l4mm. to l7mm.
Maybe somebody can give a definitive size. I just don't want to strip the bolt. Thanks again!
I am anticipating my own oil and filter change. I tried a l6mm socket and it didn't seem to slip. Well, we got a "range" of l4mm. to l7mm.
Maybe somebody can give a definitive size. I just don't want to strip the bolt. Thanks again!
Ok, despite throwing my back out on Tues, I just went out and slid underneath to put this to rest. First off, I believe that 16mm may be an "odd" size, as both my box wrench and socket sets omit it, and jump from 15mm to 17mm.
Anyway, I used a 17mm box wrench which worked fine... no "rounding" of the bolt.
Anyway, I used a 17mm box wrench which worked fine... no "rounding" of the bolt.
I know this thread is a month old, but...
Just curious if those of you who did your own oil change can shed some light on how it went?
Were the filter and the drain bolt easy to access? Is the filter your typical screw-on type, or is it a cartridge?
I recall someone mentioning in another thread about a "crush" washer that should be replaced when you put the drain bolt back on. Are those washers available at the dealer?
I don't have my Pilot yet, but I plan on doing my own oil changes once I get it. I've always done my own oil changes. Sure, the dealer could do it cheaper and I wouldn't get dirty. But the problem I have with someone else doing it is that they aren't going to give it the same care and attention as I would. I know the job will be done right...I'm a perfectionist! (not always a good thing) :2:
Just curious if those of you who did your own oil change can shed some light on how it went?
Were the filter and the drain bolt easy to access? Is the filter your typical screw-on type, or is it a cartridge?
I recall someone mentioning in another thread about a "crush" washer that should be replaced when you put the drain bolt back on. Are those washers available at the dealer?
I don't have my Pilot yet, but I plan on doing my own oil changes once I get it. I've always done my own oil changes. Sure, the dealer could do it cheaper and I wouldn't get dirty. But the problem I have with someone else doing it is that they aren't going to give it the same care and attention as I would. I know the job will be done right...I'm a perfectionist! (not always a good thing) :2:
The oil change on the Pilot is the easiest that I've ever done. The filter is easily available from the bottom and vertically oriented with no cross members below it. The drain plug is easy to access also (as with most vehicles from my experience). The dealers will definitely have the crush washers, just don't let someone tell you that you only need to change them every x number of times. It should be changed every time. They should only cost about 25 cents.
Chris
Chris
Since the factory oil has additives for engine breakin before the 7500 miles service, what is the rationale for changing oil before 7500? I guess some members are changing oil/filter around 3750 miles.
The oil change is pretty easy indeed. You will need a little muscle to get the drain plug loose the first time. It was tight!!! Everything else is very simple. However, even though you don’t need to, I’m going to use jack stands next time.
I changed mine around 4000. There is no proof that there any additives. There are several independent studies that corroborate this, btw. I just felt better getting the petro-based oil out in the synthetic in.hoppy said:Since the factory oil has additives for engine breakin before the 7500 miles service, what is the rationale for changing oil before 7500? I guess some members are changing oil/filter around 3750 miles.
Actually, its listed on Honda's website that it does.MG Pilot said:
There is no proof that there any additives.
As far as mileage goes, the "severe" schedule is 3750 for the first change, so I would expect that some have changed at 3750 because they fit into this category.
Chris
As to this statement-
There is no proof that there any additives.
Here's my puzzler- If this original oil has some special and presumably good additive, then why don't they sell it to add to the oil at every change???
Al
There is no proof that there any additives.
Please point out where it says that. I haven't been able find such a claim. They do say in one place it is "specially formulated". That can mean anything, like maybe it is thinner oil, which used to be common in new vehicles and is still done on some.xyzzy said:
Actually, its listed on Honda's website that it does.
Chris
Here's my puzzler- If this original oil has some special and presumably good additive, then why don't they sell it to add to the oil at every change???
Al
Bean said:I know this thread is a month old, but...
Just curious if those of you who did your own oil change can shed some light on how it went?
Were the filter and the drain bolt easy to access? Is the filter your typical screw-on type, or is it a cartridge?
I recall someone mentioning in another thread about a "crush" washer that should be replaced when you put the drain bolt back on. Are those washers available at the dealer?
Very easy and a typical spin on oil filter in a pretty convenient place compared to some. BTW I was out of town and stopped at the Honda dealer in Aiken SC and he GAVE me some crush washers and a bottle of touch up paint! Nice place to do business with apparently.
Al
While you are technically correct that it states "specially formulated", the essence of the message is that they do state that there is something different about the break-in oil and that you shouldn't drain it before the recommended schedule (3,750 or 7,000 based on usage). Many claim that it's additives, but I actually believe that it's more likely that its special because of what they DON'T put in the oil (i.e. - friction modifiers). The reason I (along with many others) believe this is that the reason they use the special oil is to allow the engine to develop natural wear patterns. Friction modifiers/anti-wear agents would slow down this break-in process (often quoted as the main reason that many have recommended against using a synthetic until X number of miles). This also answers your question of "why not use it all the time?" You want wear enough to break the engine in, but beyond that engine wear becomes something you want to prevent.AlH said:As to this statement-
There is no proof that there any additives.
Please point out where it says that. I haven't been able find such a claim. They do say in one place it is "specially formulated". That can mean anything, like maybe it is thinner oil, which used to be common in new vehicles and is still done on some.
Here's my puzzler- If this original oil has some special and presumably good additive, then why don't they sell it to add to the oil at every change???
Al
Can anyone give me a reason why I shouldn't believe that what Honda states about their oil in their own vehicles in this matter?
Chris
Then why do Honda's own people themselves not believe these claims of mouse milk oil??? I have called several dealers and they ALL stated that if it were THEIR Pilot, they would switch change oil at 3000 to 4000 miles tops. I switched to Mobil1 and the car is as smooth as can be. Even if there is some special oil, then 4000 miles is more then enough to establish wear patterns...xyzzy said:
While you are technically correct that it states "specially formulated", the essence of the message is that they do state that there is something different about the break-in oil and that you shouldn't drain it before the recommended schedule (3,750 or 7,000 based on usage). Many claim that it's additives, but I actually believe that it's more likely that its special because of what they DON'T put in the oil (i.e. - friction modifiers). The reason I (along with many others) believe this is that the reason they use the special oil is to allow the engine to develop natural wear patterns. Friction modifiers/anti-wear agents would slow down this break-in process (often quoted as the main reason that many have recommended against using a synthetic until X number of miles). This also answers your question of "why not use it all the time?" You want wear enough to break the engine in, but beyond that engine wear becomes something you want to prevent.
Can anyone give me a reason why I shouldn't believe that what Honda states about their oil in their own vehicles in this matter?
Chris
This is Tim's, Hondacuraworld, statement I found in ACURA MDX.ORG
"My advice is to wait until the 7500 for the first oil change. The original oil has a high concentration of molybdenum disulfide (moly) to assist in engine break-in. I'd stick with the 3K-ish intervals after that."
"My advice is to wait until the 7500 for the first oil change. The original oil has a high concentration of molybdenum disulfide (moly) to assist in engine break-in. I'd stick with the 3K-ish intervals after that."
Changing the oil every 3k is too often in my opinion. 7.5k is ok even with petro-based oil.
I agree....if you don't fall into the category of "severe" as defined in the owners manual. If you your usage pattern falls into the category of severe and you don't change the oil until 7,500 miles, you are only changing the oil half as often as you should.MG Pilot said:Changing the oil every 3k is too often in my opinion. 7.5k is ok even with petro-based oil.
Chris
These are not Honda engineers. They are mechanics. I would venture to guess that they base this on the fact that their opinion is that most people drive under what Honda defines as severe (most notably the stop and go traffic with long periods of idle). I changed at 3,750 because I fit into the category based on 90+ temps on a daily basis. But hey, if you want to trust the local mechanic instead of the automotive engineers, go for it!MG Pilot said:
Then why do Honda's own people themselves not believe these claims of mouse milk oil??? I have called several dealers and they ALL stated that if it were THEIR Pilot, they would switch change oil at 3000 to 4000 miles tops. I switched to Mobil1 and the car is as smooth as can be. Even if there is some special oil, then 4000 miles is more then enough to establish wear patterns...
Chris
Oil Change
I have a Mercedes C320 and the oil change is not required until 11 or 12 thousand miles (dictated by the computer). However, the Mercedes holds 8.5 quarts of synthetic oil.
I have a Mercedes C320 and the oil change is not required until 11 or 12 thousand miles (dictated by the computer). However, the Mercedes holds 8.5 quarts of synthetic oil.
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
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