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I have a 2003 EX with 120000 miles. Suddenly it will not shift into 3rd gear. First and second are fine, smooth, no issues. As soon as I give it some gas and it should go into third gear it won't and D starts to blink.
I have changed fluid with Honda ATF, checked pressure switches.

Only other thing is the Speedo acting erratically, sort of jumps rather than moving swiftly and sometimes drops all the way below the 0mph mark. Then it comes back again. ¿Could it be the VSS?
 

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I have a 2003 EX with 120000 miles. Suddenly it will not shift into 3rd gear. First and second are fine, smooth, no issues. As soon as I give it some gas and it should go into third gear it won't and D starts to blink.
I have changed fluid with Honda ATF, checked pressure switches.

Only other thing is the Speedo acting erratically, sort of jumps rather than moving swiftly and sometimes drops all the way below the 0mph mark. Then it comes back again. ¿Could it be the VSS?
The check engine light is on. Do you have the codes?
 

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If the speedometer isn’t working, the transmission may not shift.
 

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How did you check the pressure switches?
If you end up replacing them go with OEM as others who have used aftermarket have ended up doing the job twice; second time using OEM.
 

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I'd start with the electrical connections, especially those that are exposed or next to the exhaust. However, recognize there are also connections inside the case, which would require dropping the tranny. I also think the speedometer is a consequence of the tranny problem, not the other way around. I think there's a separate DTC for speed sensor/shifting problems.

Also, I hate to say it, but your transmission could also simply be toast and you've lost 3rd gear. Sometimes that blinking 'D' literally equals Death. Was your ATF dirty or burnt? Burnt typically indicates severe or prolonged overheating and eventual death. If unsure, see the video by Chris Fix:

 

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I'd start with the electrical connections, especially those that are exposed or next to the exhaust. However, recognize there are also connections inside the case, which would require dropping the tranny. I also think the speedometer is a consequence of the tranny problem, not the other way around. I think there's a separate DTC for speed sensor/shifting problems.

Also, I hate to say it, but your transmission could also simply be toast and you've lost 3rd gear. Sometimes that blinking 'D' literally equals Death. Was your ATF dirty or burnt? Burnt typically indicates severe or prolonged overheating and eventual death. If unsure, see the video by Chris Fix:

Im my opinion, for an old Pilot 5-speed transmission, a thinner fluid like full synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF could help.
 
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Only other thing is the Speedo acting erratically, sort of jumps rather than moving swiftly and sometimes drops all the way below the 0mph mark. Then it comes back again.
Personally, I don't think MaxLife is going to help the OP. The symptoms he described above sound (to me) like slipping/spinning clutch plates which are sending false readings to the speedo.
I've actually seen this happen, unfortunately too many times to remember - my Dad had a '65 Rambler and thought it was an F150, we changed more trannies in that old AMC than I thought possible. The first sign of slipping was a racing speedo...

My guess is 3rd gear can no longer engage...
 

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@Pilot MDE - something simple to try - have you manually shifted through all the gears and see if you can put it into D3 or get it to move when in D3?

If you can't physically shift into D3 or get it move in D3 then the tranny is likely the problem. If you can put it in D3 and get it to move, then my guess is that it's likely some type of electrical problem preventing it to automatically go from D2 to D3. Or something else...

I'm not sure if Pilots get this problem, but I know with Civics and Accords a bad or loose throttle cable can also cause all sorts of problems. A faulty throttle cable (loose connection, frayed cable, etc.) would also explain the racing speedo...
 

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Personally, I don't think MaxLife is going to help the OP. The symptoms he described above sound (to me) like slipping/spinning clutch plates which are sending false readings to the speedo.
I've actually seen this happen, unfortunately too many times to remember - my Dad had a '65 Rambler and thought it was an F150, we changed more trannies in that old AMC than I thought possible. The first sign of slipping was a racing speedo...

My guess is 3rd gear can no longer engage...
I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with you. I'd want to try replacing the solenoid along with a 3 x drain, fill and drive cycle with Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. At that point I'm throwing in the towel for a rebuilt transmission or the salvage yard/Copart auction.
 
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I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with you. I'd want to try replacing the solenoid along with a 3 x drain, fill and drive cycle with Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. At that point I'm throwing in the towel for a rebuilt transmission or the salvage yard/Copart auction.
My only concern would be IF there was any damage to the gears or clutch plates, then because MaxLife is actually an ATF and thinner than the Honda transmission 'oil', using MaxLife could (theoretically) dislodge sludge/shavings and lead to blocked passages, which effectively could make it worse.

This actually happened to me in a Subaru Legacy wagon I owned in Oregon. It ran great for 220,000 miles and then I had the tranny serviced at a great tranny shop - it only ran 5,000 miles after the service. The tranny techs said the bolt was relatively clean and they never woulda drained it and replaced the filter if they knew how much actual debris/shavings were in the pan. At that point it was toast anyway, but they said the new fluid would make the shifting easier and simultaneously likely cause it to die faster - the video I posted from Chris Fix explains this phenomenon..
 

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My only concern would be IF there was any damage to the gears or clutch plates, then because MaxLife is actually an ATF and thinner than the Honda transmission 'oil', using MaxLife could (theoretically) dislodge sludge/shavings and lead to blocked passages, which effectively could make it worse.

This actually happened to me in a Subaru Legacy wagon I owned in Oregon. It ran great for 220,000 miles and then I had the tranny serviced at a great tranny shop - it only ran 5,000 miles after the service. The tranny techs said the bolt was relatively clean and they never woulda drained it and replaced the filter if they knew how much actual debris/shavings were in the pan. At that point it was toast anyway, but they said the new fluid would make the shifting easier and simultaneously likely cause it to die faster - the video I posted from Chris Fix explains this phenomenon..
Yes, at this point your in a fickle either way. Long term use of non-full synthetic factory fluid has clogged it up. I'd still try the MaxLife.
 

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Yes, at this point your in a fickle either way. Long term use of non-full synthetic factory fluid has clogged it up. I'd still try the MaxLife.
And shift solenoid (pressure switch).
 
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