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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2014 Pilot wouldn’t start today. It had ABSOLUTELY no electricity. Doors won’t unlock with key fob. Turn the key and there are no lights. Acts like there is no battery. Not a dead battery, where it would at least pretend, but no battery at all. I just changed the battery in December. I moved the gear shift around, wiggled the steering wheel. Kicked the tire in frustration. none of these helped. Suggestions? I drove iy with no issues yesterday!
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Did you try jump starting the Pilot, or charging the battery?
Let us know if you have a multimeter as there are a few additional things you could check.
 

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After the battery is fully charged it should measure in the range of 12.6Vdc to 13.2Vdc. This is after the charger has been removed for around 15 minutes. The Pilot is turned off for this measurement.

If you suspect there is a parasitic draw, which is draining the battery, put the meter into mV DC mode. The Pilot is turned off for this measurement. Measure the voltage across each fuse; the fuses with the largest voltage drops across them are the circuits I would investigate.

The AC relay has also been known to fail and drain down the battery.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it Was the dreaded main fuse under the hood. Replaced that and all is well. Will have someone check for what caused that soon.
again, my thanks!
 

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it Was the dreaded main fuse under the hood. Replaced that and all is well. Will have someone check for what caused that soon.
again, my thanks!
We have a 2014 EXL-NAV and it keeps losing power - all power like yours, and even happened to my wife while she was driving on the interstate. The wonderfully crappy part is that power magically returns with zero changes in conditions. We simply wait, usually I check fuses, but nothing changes and power returns. WHAT IS GOING ON?!
 

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Welcome to the forum.
Have you tried any of the suggestions listed in this thread?
 

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Welcome to the forum.
Have you tried any of the suggestions listed in this thread?
We just had it in for service at a great local shop - work was even done by a recent addition to their team who is certified Honda/Acura to the gills. Did timing belt/water pump, brakes, oil change, and looked for the electrical problem. They couldn’t duplicate the problem/condition. Checked every fuse, but I am going to give that Master Fuse a closer look.
 

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If you are completely losing power it’s likely related to the positive battery cable, negative/chassis battery cables (including the ones which go between engine block and chassis) or one of the larger fuses (with that main fuse being the first one to inspect/measure).

It’s not likely to be one of the
smaller fuses since the smaller fuse will impact one specific circuit and not the entire vehicle’s power system.
 

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If you are completely losing power it’s likely related to the positive battery cable, negative/chassis battery cables (including the ones which go between engine block and chassis) or one of the larger fuses (with that main fuse being the first one to inspect/measure).

It’s not likely to be one of the
smaller fuses since the smaller fuse will impact one specific circuit and not the entire vehicle’s power system.
Well, went out this morning to shuffle the cars for work (crappy single lane driveway), no power from the get go. So, popped hood, opened fuse panel, identified Master fuse... chicken bones...voodoo... and it started up immediately. I’m no rocket surgeon, but I am confident the replacement fuse will fix it. Next stop, why?
 

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Fuses are very seldom intermittent. They blow on over-current or physical damage, and they never self-reset.

As others have suggested: Remove, clean, re-seat and snug the main battery connections. Inspect the ground connection at the fenderwall by the battery. The battery terminal contains several different connections; each needs to be clean and tight, particularly the conductors to the main and the aux underhood fuse/relay panels.

On recovery from the power failure, does the entertainment stack need to be reset? Specifically does it need a security code or the reset procedure? Guides your search some if you know.
 
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Also make sure the master fuse is tightly secured. I think those 100A fuses get bolted in place. Perhaps yours is loose enough to make intermittent contact, but not loose enough that the bad contact heats up the fuse to where it gets de-rated and blows.
 
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Hope it's not a problem jumping into a thread a month old, but wanted chime in here as I have been having the same problem as Maniacsbythec described and similar to the OP. Specifically, my 2011 Pilot (Touring) is fine most of the time (like > 95%), but there are sporadic occasions where:
  • after stopping/parked, the car will not start
    • happens maybe once per month
    • most recent experiences: pilot was parked in garage and wouldn't start, pilot wouldn't start after grocery trip (in parking lot), pilot wouldn't start after picking up kids
    • Symptoms:
      • headlights turn on when door opened/car unlocked, but interior (dome) lights dim or not on
      • Turn key and dash lights dim/flicker, but no crank.
      • Also noticed that if I use the remote to lock/unlock, the door locking mechanism sound (click) is softer than normal and the doors don't lock. I have to lock the door manually.
      • Top screen prompts for NAV code when pilot eventually starts
      • Memory seat settings lost
  • the pilot just "reboots" while running
    • happened 2 times over the course of almost a year
    • driving down the road just fine, then all of a sudden dash lights flash/dim, RPM drops to zero, radio/nav blank and then within a few seconds the RPMs come back up to around idle-1K and radio is on, but top screen prompting for NAV code. Eventually find out the memory seat settings were lost as well
What I've done/found so far:
  • The battery was replaced just over 2 years ago. Having recently experienced the issues above, I took the pilot back to the dealer (where the battery was installed) and they load tested the battery and found it to be good.
  • I did measure the resting voltage (i.e. car not running, just parked) at around 12.5V and running voltage around 13.9V ... I believe this indicates the battery is OK and the alternator is charging (or otherwise functional).
  • Over time, I have found that when pilot doesn't start, I can "temporarily get around the issue" by popping the hood flexing the negative/ground cable at the battery & body or trying to move both the battery cables at the posts (but they're on pretty tight)*
* I thought it may be corrosion on the battery terminals, but there was very minor corrosion when I checked. I cleaned it out anyway and tightened the connections (and greased them), but the problem still persists - again, sporadically. I also used an ohm meter to check the continuity between the negative post and body ground it and it tested good - but that may not necessarily mean it can carry the current...

... it seems like there's a loose connection that causes a high impedance/inability to carry the amps required to start the car. When I monkey around under the hood ... or try later in the day, the pilot starts right up and I'm on my way.

Nowadays when I get in the pilot I check the dome lights and if they are dim or not lit up at all, I know the pilot won't start. So I leave the door open and while watching the dome light, I try to jiggle the battery cables or battery, etc. until the dome lights turn on. Once the dome lights are on, I am assured the pilot starts without issue (although the NAV code needs to be entered and the memory seat settings are gone).

That's where I'm at for now. When I get more time, I will try to chase down the wiring/connections to the main fuse, starter, starter relays ... I wanted to share what I've run into and tried... if I ever get it figured out, I'll update with findings. Maybe I'll replace the negative battery cable - it's not terribly expensive...
 

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-- Clean the battery terminal connections. Remove the post clamps starting with the ground (negative) side first. Clean the clamps and the posts until they are shiny and bright. Then reassemble - positive first, then negative.

-- Check charging voltage. With engine above idle, like 1500 RPM or so, you should see a very solid 14+ volts at the battery terminals.

-- I use a specific gravity tester to identify battery problems. Charge the battery, let it rest for a bit maybe 30 mins, then test the electrolyte in the cells. That will ell you about capacity falling off.

-- You don't give a location. If you live in a hot spot with very high temps, battery life suffers. Friends in Phoenix have trouble getting 2 year life from new batteries there. Heat is just killing them.
 
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Check for corrosion along all points of the positive battery cable, negative battery cable, and the two (I believe) connections from engine block to chassis (one on front of the engine block, the other near the starter).

The fact that you’re able to jiggle cables to get the Pilot to start implies that there is a compromised wire or connector. Jiggling the wire may be allowing for enough strands of the compromised wire to make sufficient contact. Next time instead of jiggling try pinching the wire to pinpoint the location which causes things to work.
 

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Hey Dr Bob - thanks for the suggestions:
  • The battery posts and cable clamps have been cleaned, lightly sanded till shiny assembled with a coating of grease, so I think that end is good.
  • I'll have to grab a specific gravity tester to check the electrolyte and will double check the voltage @ 1500 RPM
  • I'm in Vancouver BC... relatively cooler, but mild climate in pacific NW
Would a bad plate in a battery cause this type of sporadic issue or would it be more of a "dead or alive" situation?

I'm attaching a pic of the little corrosion that was there before (the positive was worse than the negative post):
2020-07-18_072249.jpg
 
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