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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2102 pilot driver side rear window doesnt work. The switch on door gas small light its off. The driver master switch light for that window is off . Fuse is good. I changed rear switch wasnt problem. Fuse is good. If the window regulator was bad would the light on both switches not work? If so i know its the regulator any thoughts?
 

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Probability of failure of both switches at the same time is really small. Common elements are the motor itself and the power to the motor. Start with some checking of that, at the fuse first and then at the switches and motor.

Check the following fuses:

-- Fuse 4 (40A) in the main under-hood fuse/relay panel
-- Fuse 23 (10A) in the main under-hood fuse/relay panel

-- Fuse 10 (7.5A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box
-- Fuse 26 (20A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box
-- Fuse 32 (20A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box
-- Fuse 33 (20A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box (most likely)
-- Fuse 36 (10A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box

Fuse 33 supplies power to the left rear window switch and motor, including the LED indicators for the left rear switches in both the driver's door and the left rear door.

The power window controller module is in the driver's door and includes the switches and the control panel you see in the armrest. This module brokers remote keypress and driver's door key commands to close relays in the left rear door module, under the window switch in that armrest. Power to that module comes in via a red wire to terminal 8, with ground at terminal 14 black wire. The illumination LED in that module gets power via light blue wire to terminal 4.

I would REPLACE Fuse 33 (20A) in the under-dash fuse relay panel as an easy first diagnostic step, before digging into modules and connections in the armrests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the in depth reply fuse 33 is good. The fuses in main box if they were bad would non of the windows work?
 

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I don't know the details of what's inside the window controller in the driver's door. The fuses are labelled OK in the circuit diagrams, and 33 is the only one that is specific to the left rear window. The switch illumination is a wildcard here, as the circuit diagram doesn't show which fuse protects that function.

So the recommendation is to REPLACE fuse 33 as a first step. As much as I love using my extremely well-calibrated M1A1.01 Mark IV eyeball for analyzing fuse condition b appearance, I always end up checking them with a meter both in and out of circuit if there's any question. Use a needle probe into the two openings on the face of the fuse, checking for battery voltage (referenced to chassis ground) with key in RUN position. Or just plug in a new one.

Check the other listed fuses in the under-dash panel WYAIT.

After that, you'll be into the doors with a meter to verify supply and connections, and eventually work your way to testing at the motor in the rear door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know the details of what's inside the window controller in the driver's door. The fuses are labelled OK in the circuit diagrams, and 33 is the only one that is specific to the left rear window. The switch illumination is a wildcard here, as the circuit diagram doesn't show which fuse protects that function.

So the recommendation is to REPLACE fuse 33 as a first step. As much as I love using my extremely well-calibrated M1A1.01 Mark IV eyeball for analyzing fuse condition b appearance, I always end up checking them with a meter both in and out of circuit if there's any question. Use a needle probe into the two openings on the face of the fuse, checking for battery voltage (referenced to chassis ground) with key in RUN position. Or just plug in a new one.

Check the other listed fuses in the under-dash panel WYAIT.

After that, you'll be into the doors with a meter to verify supply and connections, and eventually work your way to testing at the motor in the rear door.
Thanks its the illumination that is throwing me the curve ball ill check them all
 
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