Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've watched a few of the vids on an '05 about changing the Neutral Safety Switch, but when I jacked up the truck and took off the wheel, it did not look the same.

Can anyone tell me where the heck it is? My truck won't start, and I've got the part to try, just can't find the dang thing!
140103
140104
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I found it. For future reference, if anyone else is looking for the location it's towards the front bumper, behind the wheel well plastic skirt.

Much more of a PITA to get to than on the other trims. Oh well, here we go.
140105
140106
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm seriously stumped by that nut bracket on the spindle that has a little strut extending off of it. I can't figure out a way to get that nut off, as there's a tab preventing it from moving, and I can't get the part off without removing that nut. I'm pretty stuck, and I'd appreciate if anyone could chime in. I can't find any specific info on this repair job for the EX-L trim, only the base models which are far easier to do. Figures. That's the story of my life.
 

·
Registered
2008 Honda Pilot EX-L
Joined
·
314 Posts
Looks like your problem is part number 17, which is doing exactly what it was designed to do. So the only solution I can recommend is to try and bend those tabs out of the way so it rotates with the whole nut. As after the nut is installed it looks like they simply bend the tabs down to keep the nut from backing out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got the cotter pin/plate off the back. You'll need a stubby screwdriver and a punch. I released the lever arm of the pin with the stuff flathead screwdriver and pushed on the vertical shaft of the pin/plate part with the punch. It looks like this:
140108
140109
140110
I'm left with a flatted bolt of some sort. My 8mm socket fits over it and spins freely, but my 7mm won't fit down over it. Looked in my wrench roll-up and I only have wrenches down to 8mm, of course. 😆
Not to mention that with the truck up on a bottle jack and a jack stand, your head is almost directly underneath the bare rotor to get up in the wheel well with your arms in order to access all these parts. It's not fun. I can only imagine how much easier this job would be with the truck up on a lift. ☹
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like your problem is part number 17, which is doing exactly what it was designed to do. So the only solution I can recommend is to try and bend those tabs out of the way so it rotates with the whole nut. As after the nut is installed it looks like they simply bend the tabs down to keep the nut from backing out.
I tried to get a screwdriver in there to bend that tab, but there was no room. I'm trying to get the pin out to take the strut off with the whole assembly and then figure out if I can get #17 off on the bench. Had to run out and get a 7mm wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the tab bent, fortunately it's accessible to a screwdriver and hammer, then got the nut off. Can fit a wobble extension in there and use a small impact driver. The strut part #14 in the diagram that attaches to whatever arm that is, part B-35, is completely immobile and won't swing in any way, so I still can't the dang switch assembly off the spindle. I'm at my wit's end, because even with the cotter pin/plate part off the back of the strut, I can't figure out how to get part #19 off the back, holding onto the pin part #15 from the diagram.

There is a very old post where a guy managed to get the thing off, so I'm gonna try and respond and hope he chimes in, because I can't find any info on how to get this job done, and I don't want to give up and get this thing towed to the mechanic, it's literally right there in front of me, and the part is just 2 bolts. It's so frustrating.
140115
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just found this from user Tahoefever. Instruction manual! This isn't linked ANYWHERE on the web via Google or Duckduckgo.

I put it all back together because the sun is going down. Gonna have to give it a go tomorrow, from the top.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,573 Posts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I linked you above, thanks for posting that diagram and manual excerpt before! Gonna try it again today from above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Tahoefever, or anyone that's done this job before, is there a trick to getting the old switch part off of the gear selector spindle?? I'm stuck at step 13 on the guide because I can't for the life of me get the old part to come off the spindle. Got the nut and lock washer off, but the old switch assembly won't so much as wiggle on the spindle. Can anyone suggest something?
 

·
Registered
2008 Honda Pilot EX-L
Joined
·
314 Posts
Hey Tahoefever, or anyone that's done this job before, is there a trick to getting the old switch part off of the gear selector spindle?? I'm stuck at step 13 on the guide because I can't for the life of me get the old part to come off the spindle. Got the nut and lock washer off, but the old switch assembly won't so much as wiggle on the spindle. Can anyone suggest something?
Penetrating lube and a rubber mallet.
 

·
Registered
2008 Honda Pilot EX-L
Joined
·
314 Posts
It looks like you still have some bolts you may need to remove to get it to pop off (circled in red), unless those are captive nuts or something, or part of the overall unit (but can't see the backside/replacement part to know for sure).

In regards to the mallet I was thinking that the two pieces may have rusted together, so smacking it on the part in yellow, or where those two bolts passed through might free it up.
140142

140143
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It looks like you still have some bolts you may need to remove to get it to pop off (circled in red), unless those are captive nuts or something, or part of the overall unit (but can't see the backside/replacement part to know for sure).

In regards to the mallet I was thinking that the two pieces may have rusted together, so smacking it on the part in yellow, or where those two bolts passed through might free it up.
View attachment 140142
View attachment 140143
No those are the screws that hold the two halves of the switch housing together. The bolts that held the part to the engine block are removed, and it can rotate freely no problem. The problem is circled in blue, and is frozen to the gear selector spindle.
140144


Doesn't matter now anyway, because the whole switch housing sheared off that collar stud, and now it's left on the spindle. Stupid plastic part, maybe was replaced before. The OEM parts are supposed to be housed in a metal case.
140145
140146
140147
140148


I highlighted in yellow where it's frozen to the spindle. So now I'm screwed if I can't get that stupid collar piece off the spindle, and I'll have to have the truck towed to my local garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The only thing I can think of is to somehow get something behind the black plastic ring that's left from the old housing, and somehow hammer it forward, but there's nowhere to get leverage. I've read that if you damage the spindle, it's time for a new transmission, which is the absolute WCS that I don't want to have happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, finally got the old sleeve off the spindle. I cut off the remaining plastic bit with some snips so I could get leverage by using the longest screwdriver I had. I managed to get behind the old sleeve portion and push it off using the bolt entry point you can see in the last pic above as leverage. Got everything back together again, install was very easy, took less than 10 minutes.
140150
140151
140152
140153

Don't forget t put the spring clip back on the back of the shifter linkage if you took it out. The last picture is some tools that it would be EXTREMELY helpful to have for this job as there are lots of tight spaces:
10mm and12mm stubby ratcheting wrenches
6mm mini wrench for turning the gear selector spindle
Mini ratchet wrench
and a 22mm offset for getting the compression nut off and on the switch housing.

Got it all together and of course, it turns out the Neutral Safety Switch isn't the cause of my no start problem. Back to the drawing board, ordered a start relay, and going to check the 7.5a fuse under the dash. Also will look into the ignition switch, and lastly check power to the starter. Story of my f*cking life.
 

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
9,303 Posts
Nice goin' there, @futureboycolin. Now that you've passed the initiation ritual, we can all say welcome to the forum. :)
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top