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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The jack points are by the wheel wells, but I can't put the jack stands under them if the jack is there lifting the car.

I tried lifting the car by the front and rear jacking brackets, and then positioning the jack stands under the jack points - but my jack stands have a deep U shape and if I rest the jack points on the jack stands, the plastic trim by those jack points will make contact an inch or so before the frame of the car does. So it'll probably destroy those trim pieces under there.

Where can I safely put the jack stands before letting the jack (at the jack points by the wheel well) down? Under the control arms? It would be really handy if there was a jack stand point right next to the jack point so I could just jack it up and pop it right on the jack stands.
 

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2016 CRV Touring AWD, 2005 Pilot RIP.
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Honda has specific points shown in the owners manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Honda has specific points shown in the owners manual
Yes, the jack points by the wheel wells, and the jacking brackets under the front and back bumpers. But they don't work for me. Just wondering what else is safe. I always put the tire I remove under the car as well as the jackstand, I'm just trying to find something to put the jack stand under that won't destroy the car.
 

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2020 Honda Passport Touring AWD Metallic Steel
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This shows a 2019 but the 2011 jack points are in the same locations.

 

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I use the tow point in the front center to lift with a floor jack, then set the stands under the normal jack points. In the rear, the differential works fine. Same basic idea as in the video.

For your jackstand clearance problem, a narrow piece of plywood in the U is cheap, disposable and robust. Metal would be better, but it harder to cut to fit.

I don't think either approach would be safe without a pretty beefy floor jack. There's no way I would try this with the spare tire jack that came with the car. Doing one pair of brakes yourself will pay for a decent jack, if you don't already have one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't think either approach would be safe without a pretty beefy floor jack. There's no way I would try this with the spare tire jack that came with the car. Doing one pair of brakes yourself will pay for a decent jack, if you don't already have one.
I have a 2-1/4 ton hydraulic floor jack, which I would not call "beefy". I had a 3 ton floor jack that I got from Home Depot which was pretty beefy. But I don't have anywhere outside that I can store a jack, so I need to carry it up and down a flight of stairs to and from the basement every time I use it. That got old immediately with the 3 ton jack so I returned it. The 2-1/4 ton jack is much more manageable.

I'm only going to do one side at a time, so that I never have more than one wheel off the car at a time. That, combined with two jack stands and a tire under the side I'm working on, in addition to that 2-1/4 ton jack just below the jack point should give me enough margin of safety to come out in one piece after changing the brake pads. it's just a question of where to put the second jack stand under the same wheel.

Oh, and I will need to replace the sway bar links and bushings too, one wheel at a time. That should be interesting.
 

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There are Jack Points and Lift Points.

The 4 lift points are by the tires, which is where you put the jack stands.

The two jacking points are either end of the vehicle, where you would place your floor jack to bring the vehicle up enough to place your jack stands under the lift points. Confusing wording? Yes.

Here is a diagram I have for my CRV, but the pilot has the same(ish) spots.

EDIT: Being a true New Englander, I put a hockey puck on my floor jack when using to avoid a slip.


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I got this for Christmas a few years ago... for lifting one corner of a vehicle at a time (which I do at least half the time) it is excellent.


 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got this for Christmas a few years ago... for lifting one corner of a vehicle at a time (which I do at least half the time) it is excellent.


Whoa. That's exactly what I need. What jack pad do you use? The Honda compatible one looks like it will destroy the plastic trim by the lift points on my car:


The universal one might work better for me:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There are Jack Points and Lift Points.

The 4 lift points are by the tires, which is where you put the jack stands.

The two jacking points are either end of the vehicle, where you would place your floor jack to bring the vehicle up enough to place your jack stands under the lift points. Confusing wording? Yes.

Here is a diagram I have for my CRV, but the pilot has the same(ish) spots.

EDIT: Being a true New Englander, I put a hockey puck on my floor jack when using to avoid a slip.


View attachment 153728
Yeah, the Pilot has the same spots. I need to get a hockey puck.
 

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Whoa. That's exactly what I need. What jack pad do you use? The Honda compatible one looks like it will destroy the plastic trim by the lift points on my car:


The universal one might work better for me:
I believe I'm using the one that came with the jack, I don't remember buying a Honda specific one later. But with the information they provide you can confirm this with a tape measure very quickly.

That jack stand has proved to be a fantastic tool. There is a slight learning curve (like which angle to jack from so the stand is positioned properly and not in the way) but now that I've used it a number of times it's second nature and the vehicle is very secure.
 
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I got this for Christmas a few years ago... for lifting one corner of a vehicle at a time (which I do at least half the time) it is excellent.


You must have been a good boy that year, considering the $169 price per stand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
These are quite popular, just make sure that it will fit under your vehicle first. Comes in a 4K lb and 6K lb model.

You know, I actually saw these a while ago and decided against them for some reason. But now that I'm considering $150 for the Rennstand, these don't look so bad. Pep Boys is right up the street and they have the 6000lb version (not to be confused with the 3 ton version) in stock for $70. So maybe I'll swing by tomorrow and pick one up and get the pinch weld adapter online.
 

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You know, I actually saw these a while ago and decided against them for some reason. But now that I'm considering $150 for the Rennstand, these don't look so bad. Pep Boys is right up the street and they have the 6000lb version (not to be confused with the 3 ton version) in stock for $70. So maybe I'll swing by tomorrow and pick one up and get the pinch weld adapter online.
Make sure the starting height of the Powerbuilt works for you. Some of the negative reviews for the Powerbuilt quality are concerning. I have steel ramps, 3-4 ton low profile floor jacks and 4-6 ton jack stands and find the Rennstand design very interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Make sure the starting height of the Powerbuilt works for you. Some of the negative reviews for the Powerbuilt quality are concerning. I have steel ramps, 3-4 ton low profile floor jacks and 4-6 ton jack stands and find the Rennstand design very interesting.
Yeah, I think it was the negative Amazon reviews that put me off before. I have 12" clearance to the bottom of the lift points, and the 6000lb version says it starts at 11". But if it doesn't work for some reason, I can just bring it back to Pep Boys, within the return period anyway.
 

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You must have been a good boy that year, considering the $169 price per stand.
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I make Christmas count!

On a more factual note, I do a lot for my parents throughout the year, and automotive related tools pull double duty with my dad and me so usually we find a couple tools that we wouldn't otherwise buy ourselves and give them to my mom as our gifts. This one resides at my house (since I usually do the crawling under work on any of the cars) but most reside in their barn. Rather have this than a bunch of clothes I won't wear!
 
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