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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y’all — a very specific question here — I’ve run all my wires to the back and down to the fuse box for my F/R dashcams but I’m an electrical moron and am wondering, in the attached photos, where these two leads go. One is of course a fuse so I just need to find the right slot (so the cam is power d with the ignition). The other I’m not so sure of. Any knowledgeable help is appreciated so I don’t burn up my car!

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I thought those cams were always powered up in case someone hit your car or vandalized it, cam was still able to record if movement was detected?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I thought those cams were always powered up in case someone hit your car or vandalized it, cam was still able to record if movement was detected?
I know some are that way but that’s not how I had this one configured in my previous car (or if this will even do that) and where I live, I don’t really need it doing any recording when I’m not driving it.

The ground connection info makes perfect sense but I’m still not sure where that fuse connection goes. I guess I can check with my dealer tomorrow if I need to, too.

PS — sorry about all the extra photos!
 

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For some reason your pictures would not load for me to look at. I attached my power to fuse location #12 which is inside the car on the driver's side, down by the brake pedal and if I recall was empty. Only hot when ignition is on, and does not shut off when the auto idle stop kicks in. I used a metal stud behind the brake pedal for my ground.

If you are going with location #12, make sure if you are using a tap-a-fuse or add-a-fuse, that you check to see which leg of the fuse#12 is hot with the ignition on. That is the side you want your leg of the added fuse with the smaller fuse protector to be plugged into.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
For some reason your pictures would not load for me to look at. I attached my power to fuse location #12 which is inside the car on the driver's side, down by the brake pedal and if I recall was empty. Only hot when ignition is on, and does not shut off when the auto idle stop kicks in. I used a metal stud behind the brake pedal for my ground.

If you are going with location #12, make sure if you are using a tap-a-fuse or add-a-fuse, that you check to see which leg of the fuse#12 is hot with the ignition on. That is the side you want your leg of the added fuse with the smaller fuse protector to be plugged into.
Good info; thanks very much. I managed to get ahold of my dealer today pretty easily and they also pointed out that I can plug into either one of the two open fuse slots — either should work, but to of course make sure no power goes to the camera when the ignition is off, and that it does power-up when the ignition is on. Regarding your idea on which leg of the fuse is hot, I guess I’ll just give it a try and see what works. I can’t do worse than 50/50, right? I don’t have a choice on the fuse, BTW — it’s already wired to the camera’s factory wiring. And thanks fo the tip on where to ground, too. Very helpful. I’ll post back here when I can although it’ll be a few days.... Thanks again.
 

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When I checked the forum before adding my dash cam, I found that most people said only the #12 location was ideal. I used a multimeter and checked each leg of the open slot with the power off and then on. That's how I found the side that was hot.

Installing the add a fuse correctly allows the fuse to protect the circuit if something happens. If you install it wrong, it could allow the circuit to remain live in certain circumstances and not protect the circuit.

The biggest problem I had was getting down that low and working in that area. Really wasn't all that bad though.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Well the project is finally done. I called my dealer and explained what I was doing; they said my fuse could go in either empty slot, so I picked the closest one, connected the ground wire to some substantial steel in the upper left area of the footwell and everything works fine. It is indeed a very tight area to work in, especially having to approach it from outside the door opening and crank everything to the hard left. The camera comes on with my ignition and goes off when it goes off As I mentioned earlier, running the wires was far easier than I expected and if I had the slightest clue about electrical work, I’d have had it done sooner but had to take some times to get things straight.
 
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