[kjohnson1053]

We have a broken lug stud on the Pilot (2005). After taking the tire and rotor off, it would seem it would take a press to separate the hub from the steering knuckle. Given that this is the case, I am leaning toward replacing the entire assembly rather than pressing out the hub and redoing the wheel bearings. It's either that or find someone with a press and paying them to replace the stud and potentially the wheel bearing if it ends up being necessary.

I was looking at Rock Auto at hub/knuckle assemblies. I see Dorman, SKP, WJB, and Ultra Power. Are any of those any good, or am I better off going with Honda?

If Honda is my only real option, the expense of labor on having someone separate it and replace the wheel bearing along with the lug stud wouldn't be so bad. If I go with the separation option, is there something I am missing in the process? I don't see 4 bolts in the back like other models I have seen videos on, so I'm not sure using a slide hammer to separate them on the car is a possibility. I am assuming since is appears to be pressed together it, will take a press to separate them. Is it possible to separate using a slide hammer and then a way to get it back together without a press?

Sorry for all the questions, I am just trying to figure out my options.

 

[royalbiggster]

You don't need to remove the hub to replace a lug. Cut the end of the lug down so about 3/4" inch sticking out. Hammer it out the back, and finish cutting if it still jams taking out. Once the old one is out, file down the new lug on one corner so it will fit in the hub. You will see what I mean when you try to install as there isn't enough space to install the new. It will be at an angle. File it down just enough to get it in. Once it is in, put a washer then nut, then washer, then another nut and tighten down until the new lug is in flush.

 

[plplplpl]

Not the be-all and end-all of opinions, but from what little experience I have, if you go for the complete assembly, I would steer away (pun intended ) from Dorman and turn toward (another pun intended ) SKP or Ultra-Power.

 

[vwvannut]

you can't remove the hub without destroying the bearing. I used an OTC hub grappler to do my wheel bearings, I reused the hubs. my guess is the best way to go is with a new hub and wheel bearing...or go to a junk yard and pull the entire knuckle. bring a beefy battery powered impact to take off the axle nut.

 

[Blackcat]

If your stud is rusted in, or just won't hammer out, you can loosen it a little by drilling a hole through it. Start small, with sharp bits, like 3/32 inch, followed by 1/4 inch, then 5/16 inch. Putting a hole in the center of the stud allows it to "shrink" or loosen just a little, and makes hammering it out easier.

 

[Maritime]

I just did a front hub bearing replacement on my 2011 with 140K Miles. It was RUSTED to dog poo and it was not fun. If your bearing isn't bad, use royalbiggster's method and save yourself a world of grief. Now if you live in a warm climate without salt, you can probably swap the hub unit with less use of the "F" word and bruises. Sad thing is I fixed one after a shit load of PB blaster, swearing etc. and it fixed the loud noise and grinding/vibrating.......only to hear a faint whining sound now coming from the other side. I'll be doing another in probably a month as that's how long it took the first one to start as a faint whine to eventually start getting loud to going to a vibration and a grind at 55MPH up.

 

[kjohnson1053]

Thanks for the tips. I may end up going with the replace the entire assembly option. I noticed a bit of sound today from it that makes me think the bearing may be failing anyway, so that may make my decision for me. I'm going to keep an ear out for a few days and see if the sound gets worse. If so, I'm just swapping out the entire assembly. If the grease on the inside of the wheel I noticed last night is coming from where I think it is (CV), then I can just replace it when I swap the CV.