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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finished changing my timing belt today...after figuring out where all the bolts went. On my 2014 Pilot EX with 112,500 miles here is what it looked like. By the way, the dealer wanted $1,189 plus tax to do this.

146867


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Doesn't look terrible. Did it seem stretched at all?
How was the tensioner? Any fluid around the plunger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure about stretching. Tensioner seemed fine. No plunger fluid. All the new bearings spinned a bit smoother than the old ones. A drive around the block indicates things are smoother and quieter than before.
 

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The belt looks to be in good condition. I look for wear on the sides of the teeth, and the polished back surface as telltales of excessive wear. Cracks between the teeth would tell me that the belt has exceeded its safe lifespan.

On a couple other cars here, the cam drive gears wear, scrubbing off a hard anodized coating on the teeth. The softer aluminum underneath then wears quickly, and that takes a bigger toll on the belt. Not sure if that's an issue for the Honda engine.

Congrats on finishing the task and finding the great results. On some cars, successfully completing the a timing belt replacement is a sort of rite of passage. I'm still in the 'uninitiated' category, but I did spend a little time today mapping out some of the logistics. I'm trying to find the engine lift points for the belt end, so I can use my engine-bay crossbar lift to hold things up while the motor mount is unbolted. Need advice and/or more workshop manual time.

Again -- great job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is what I learned form this job. I watched the video from the South Main Auto on Youtube. It's very well done. However, his power steering pump had 2 bolts and mine had 3. Also, when loosening the serpetine belt tensioner. he does it from the top. There is far more room doing this from the bottom. My wife is driving it to the beach this weekend so all should be good.
 

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I'm trying to find the engine lift points for the belt end, so I can use my engine-bay crossbar lift to hold things up while the motor mount is unbolted. Need advice and/or more workshop manual time.
A small jack under the oil pan is all that is needed. Just touch the pan with slight pressure. It's just ti relieve the pressure from off the side mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm trying to find the engine lift points for the belt end, so I can use my engine-bay crossbar lift to hold things up while the motor mount is unbolted. Need advice and/or more workshop manual time.
As Nailgrease says...just use a jack under the oil pan. It's not really holding the motor up, there are other mounts still there. At some point you could even completely remove the jack if you wanted. I watched this video in its entirety before I did this.

 

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Chris,
I haven't done this, yet.
What method/tools did you use to get the crank pulley bolt off?
They say that's half the chore right there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Chris,
I haven't done this, yet.
What method/tools did you use to get the crank pulley bolt off?
They say that's half the chore right there.
Exactly. That was my concern Todd. I bought a generic fat 19mm socket like the Lisle socket. Then I bought a new impact gun from Harbor Freight because it was rated at 1050 ft lbs. Worked perfect. The bolt came off in 2 seconds. Here are the links to the products.

https://www.amazon.com/Harmonic-Bal...cer+socket&qid=1616597646&s=automotive&sr=1-7

8.5 Amp Corded 1/2 in. Heavy Duty Extreme Torque Impact Wrench
 

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On the jack under the oil pan... The car will be on the workbay lift for the surgery, so it will go up and down to keep the work area at a convenient height. First-world problem. I have one of those crossbar supports that spans the engine bay, has hooks and chains to support engines while mounts are changed. Need to find the best place to connect to the engine on the belts end.

For an example, search: OTC 4324 Stinger 1100 lbs Capacity Engine Support Bar

Did a tiny bit of cleaning and looking in there yesterday, while swapping in new brake fluid. Needs some more, but not until the roads are free of deicer and cinders. Need more time with the workshop manuals and some of those videos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
On the jack under the oil pan... The car will be on the workbay lift for the surgery, so it will go up and down to keep the work area at a convenient height. First-world problem. I have one of those crossbar supports that spans the engine bay, has hooks and chains to support engines while mounts are changed. Need to find the best place to connect to the engine on the belts end.
There is a factory engine mount hook/ support there by the power steering pump for that.

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As Nailgrease says...just use a jack under the oil pan. It's not really holding the motor up, there are other mounts still there. At some point you could even completely remove the jack if you wanted.
The jack on the oil pan prevents the drop. As you said, it can be let down easy at that point. Some may fear this may strain the other mounts. My experience is that it hasn't hurt anything. But I wouldn't criticize the extra precaution if someone wanted to keep it supported the whole time.
 

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There is a factory engine mount hook/ support there by the power steering pump for that.

View attachment 146911

That's exactly what I was hoping for. I didn't pull any of the covers off to look, and since it didn't reach out and grab my attention it wasn't there when I looked. You guys saved me a pile of worry -- Thanks!

I should probably take that plastic cover off and dust the intake manifold...
 
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The jack on the oil pan prevents the drop. As you said, it can be let down easy at that point. Some may fear this may strain the other mounts. My experience is that it hasn't hurt anything. But I wouldn't criticize the extra precaution if someone wanted to keep it supported the whole time.

I have the fancy tool, and frankly it's been used on other peoples' cars a lot more than it's been used on any of mine. So trying to bring my own purchase/value ratio up a little by actually using it.
 
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The belt looks to be in good condition. I look for wear on the sides of the teeth, and the polished back surface as telltales of excessive wear. Cracks between the teeth would tell me that the belt has exceeded its safe lifespan.

On a couple other cars here, the cam drive gears wear, scrubbing off a hard anodized coating on the teeth. The softer aluminum underneath then wears quickly, and that takes a bigger toll on the belt. Not sure if that's an issue for the Honda engine.

Congrats on finishing the task and finding the great results. On some cars, successfully completing the a timing belt replacement is a sort of rite of passage. I'm still in the 'uninitiated' category, but I did spend a little time today mapping out some of the logistics. I'm trying to find the engine lift points for the belt end, so I can use my engine-bay crossbar lift to hold things up while the motor mount is unbolted. Need advice and/or more workshop manual time.

Again -- great job!
Dr. Bob = Jay Leno's Garage
 

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Exactly. That was my concern Todd. I bought a generic fat 19mm socket like the Lisle socket. Then I bought a new impact gun from Harbor Freight because it was rated at 1050 ft lbs. Worked perfect. The bolt came off in 2 seconds. Here are the links to the products.

Amazon.com: Harmonic Balancer Socket Tool 77080 19 mm 3 Times Momentum Power of Standard Impact Sockets for Honda: Automotive

8.5 Amp Corded 1/2 in. Heavy Duty Extreme Torque Impact Wrench
Thank you for posting these links and info Chris.
 
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Dr. Bob = Jay Leno's Garage
Without admitting guilt, we knew Jay Leno professionally (my wife), and personally (me) through the car culture in SoCal while we lived there. Jay is a few years older, a few inches shorter, a little wider, and a lot more involved in the car culture than I'll ever be. He has a huge passion, obviously, and the media connections to support his habit in a way others won't be able to duplicate. I had a couple thousand square feet of hobby garage for a while for toys. The last of it was dissipated to the market a couple Septembers ago. That all started when I was young, single and immortal. All of those conditions have reversed in the last 20 years. A couple semi trailers disappeared from the SoCal place with the stuff, a miniscule fraction of the total invested dollars appeared in a bank account, and it was over.

Now I maintain the small flock of road cars, including the Pilot. It's therapy of sorts, a lot cheaper and easier than paying a professional to listen to my long-winded descriptions.....
 

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Without admitting guilt, we knew Jay Leno professionally (my wife), and personally (me) through the car culture in SoCal while we lived there. Jay is a few years older, a few inches shorter, a little wider, and a lot more involved in the car culture than I'll ever be. He has a huge passion, obviously, and the media connections to support his habit in a way others won't be able to duplicate. I had a couple thousand square feet of hobby garage for a while for toys. The last of it was dissipated to the market a couple Septembers ago. That all started when I was young, single and immortal. All of those conditions have reversed in the last 20 years. A couple semi trailers disappeared from the SoCal place with the stuff, a miniscule fraction of the total invested dollars appeared in a bank account, and it was over.

Now I maintain the small flock of road cars, including the Pilot. It's therapy of sorts, a lot cheaper and easier than paying a professional to listen to my long-winded descriptions.....
One day we will actually know what all is in this collection. I've speculated before but Bob is a poker player and wouldn't even humor my theory he has cheese grator cough Testarossa in his garage. Someone should start and off topic thread guessing the contents of Bob's garage.
 
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