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What have you done to your Pilot today?

54703 Views 366 Replies 84 Participants Last post by  aggrex
I couldn't find a thread like this, so if there is already a thread please delete or merge.

Today I changed the rear differential fluid for the first time and changed the engine oil and filter for the second time. Current mileage is 13,028 and the vehicle has been great. Both jobs were pretty easy, though I am not a fan of the oil filter location. I used a little over 2 quarts of Honda Dual Pump II for the diff and 5 quarts of Castrol Magnatec with .7 quarts of Valvoline FS that I had left over from my CRV oil change (both 0W20) with a Fram TG7317 filter.

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at dusk
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The front 7" give purely spot distance illumination.
The top 4" are floods and have a spread nearly matching that of the high beams.
Sting (Ace Face) says you need more lights. ;)
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Last night after work, I replaced the dome lights and front door puddle lights with LEDs. The vanity mirror lights are still MIA.

I dropped in some LEDs in my map, console, dome, and tailgate lights. Incredibly bright, maybe too bright.
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I also changed most of the fluids. I didn't get a service record with the car, so I figured I'd start fresh. Came with 18k miles, so I know there was a differential change at 15k that may have been missed.

Changed:
Engine oil
Rear differential
Transaxle
Transmission

The fluids all looked pretty good, and not too much stuff on the drain plug magnets.

Coming up, finish dashcam hardwire and cord routing, then roof rails and Thule crossbars.
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Installed a switch to disable the power liftgate.
Rectangle Grey Automotive design Tints and shades Font
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What are the advantages of doing this?
No pics yet of my Pilot loaded up, but this is why... I know the liftgate is supposed to reverse when it hits something, but I can't trust it to not do irreparable damage to my surfboard first before reversing. I also cannot trust myself to not mistakenly hit the liftgate switch on the fob or the door. This way, I flick the switch (disabling power liftgate), load up the car, and no chance of mishaps until I unload the boards and flip the switch again. Not exactly a feature for everyone, but definitely worth it for me. Cost me under $50 for the switch, wire, and connectors, and several hours of research, and another few hours to install.

Can't wait to take her to the beach, and get an updated pic.


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Just the motors or the the whole thing? How do you get it back open?

Somebody left the map light on in my wife's Pilot, battery discharged to 6V. Had the same effect except NOTHING powered worked (tailgate, locks, starter, etc.) Hard to get to the jumper cables etc when disabled.
I disabled the lift motors. The rest still has power. When I turn the switch off, pushing the fob or door switch is now like when you push and hold the liftgate switch (it unlatches and allows manual opening and closing.)
Some other brands offer this as a standard feature. My '14 Traverse has a "2 way" switch. If I push it up it stays up and turns the power tailgate off (though the latch is still power operated and works). If I push it down it is momentary to power open or close the tailgate.

Can't say I've ever turned it off but it would have worked for this use case! I have my cargo box set up to mount about 3" in front of the tailgate while it's open.
Yeah, I'm definitely a minority. I can understand why Honda didn't bother, but they definitely thought of a LOT when programming the control module.
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Love the logo on the carrier, looks great!
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SVCM installed today, wish I'd done it sooner. The differences are subtle, but things feel so much smoother and orderly. The Pilot used to be very nebulous, especially when you'd let off the gas. Now it all seems to make sense.
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This weekend if finished the door speaker replacement. While I had the driver and passenger doors door panels off, I applied sound deadening to the inner and outer door. This by far is the most time consuming project to date on our Pilot. On average it took 4.5 hours per door. I am anal as I wanted to make sure it was done right. I followed and excellent blog post write up on Trail4r and used a couple of YouTube videos on how remove the door panels. The insulation I used was Noico 80mil and the speakers are Infinity Kappa 60csx 6.5”. The speakers are a little bright and will need a good 20 hours of break in. My wife prefers a brighter sounding speaker, while I prefer a more mid range sound. My wife is the primary driver of our Pilot so her vote carried more weight.





I still have the “C” pillar tweeters to go. I need to spend a little time to figure out first on how to access those.

21Elite
If the C pillars are the same in your 21Elite as they are indicated in the 2016 Service Manual, you need to smack the top of the pillar with a rubber mallet to break the clip in order to remove the C pillar. You'll need to order new clips.



1. Hit the upper clip (A) in the C pillar trim (B) with a rubber
mallet. Hitting the clip breaks the projections (C) on the pin
(D), and pushes it into the grommet (E) on the body (F).


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Simple little project today. I added hood struts from Redline Tuning. The part number is 21-18017-02. Super simple install with no modifications needed. I think it took about 15 minutes from start to finish.



Sorry for the crappy photo, but post pics or it didn’t happen. Right?

21Elite
Looks nice!!! Aargh!!! In music forums, we talk a lot about GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome). I'm now GASsing for these...
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Oil Catch Can doing its thing!
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What's the word on oil catch cans and warranty coverage, also, I read somewhere that they could be problematic in freezing temps?
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