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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2010 Pilot EX-L threw the P3400 so I replaced the oil pressure sensor. Problem solved. I thought. Well, at least that problem is not manifesting any more.

Around the same time, my alternator started screaming, then started not charging the battery and I got the electrical warning. After reading some of these wonderful Piloteers discussions, checked the front VTM spool valve assy and saw that it was leaking, and there was dirty oil gunk all over from the spool valve down to and through the alternator. Ordered the unobtainable gasket kit off Amazon and a reman Denso, and got to work. I noticed the upper gasket in the kit is narrower than the original. The lower gasket, with the screen, looks identical. So I used a tiny line of Hondabond all along the upper gasket.

Left is original, right is replacement.
144724

Got it all done in about 3 hours of actual work spread over a few days due to running up and down from garage to office to check things in the Honda svc manual and various YouTube videos (and here!), and employer/spousal/offspring interruptions. I let it sit for a couple days after installing the gasket, partly for the Hondabond to cure, adn partly to do the alternator, and partly due to more interruptions. Drove to reset the computer and let it run its diags, and was about to bring it in for the dreaded California smog check, and it threw P3497. Traced that out, and just bit the bullet and bought another oil pressure sensor. Test drove and put the miles on to reset the computer again, and after 97 miles it threw P3497 again. I checked everything in the “DTC P3497 VPS Stuck Off Bank 2” section of the manual that didn’t require all the pressure tools. Tested continuity on the wire from PCM connector B pin 20 to oil pressure switch 1P connector and it seemed to be bad. I thought I damaged the wire while working on the alternator and spool valve gaskets, but I think my test pin in B20 wasn’t up against the contact. When I tested again, I got continuity.

I’m out of ideas except maybe I screwed up the spool valve gasket replacement. Maybe I shouldn’t have used Hondabond if the gasket is meant to expand or something, or maybe I should have used more since the replacement upper gasket is thin. I can do it again, because I ordered 2 gasket sets in case I needed one for the back (Yeah, I know now that it's a different gasket.)

I’m also wondering if there’s a problem with the solenoid, but I know those have other codes - P2648, 2649, 2653, and 2654 for the rear / Bank 1, and 2658, 2659 for the front / bank 2.

Also wondering If I should just order a new spool valve assembly and use the top half and gaskets. (Yes, I read the stories on that one, and dealers not doing the whole job.)

Help!
Thanks
 

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My 2010 Pilot EX-L threw the P3400 so I replaced the oil pressure sensor. Problem solved. I thought. Well, at least that problem is not manifesting any more.

Around the same time, my alternator started screaming, then started not charging the battery and I got the electrical warning. After reading some of these wonderful Piloteers discussions, checked the front VTM spool valve assy and saw that it was leaking, and there was dirty oil gunk all over from the spool valve down to and through the alternator. Ordered the unobtainable gasket kit off Amazon and a reman Denso, and got to work. I noticed the upper gasket in the kit is narrower than the original. The lower gasket, with the screen, looks identical. So I used a tiny line of Hondabond all along the upper gasket.

Left is original, right is replacement.
View attachment 144724
Got it all done in about 3 hours of actual work spread over a few days due to running up and down from garage to office to check things in the Honda svc manual and various YouTube videos (and here!), and employer/spousal/offspring interruptions. I let it sit for a couple days after installing the gasket, partly for the Hondabond to cure, adn partly to do the alternator, and partly due to more interruptions. Drove to reset the computer and let it run its diags, and was about to bring it in for the dreaded California smog check, and it threw P3497. Traced that out, and just bit the bullet and bought another oil pressure sensor. Test drove and put the miles on to reset the computer again, and after 97 miles it threw P3497 again. I checked everything in the “DTC P3497 VPS Stuck Off Bank 2” section of the manual that didn’t require all the pressure tools. Tested continuity on the wire from PCM connector B pin 20 to oil pressure switch 1P connector and it seemed to be bad. I thought I damaged the wire while working on the alternator and spool valve gaskets, but I think my test pin in B20 wasn’t up against the contact. When I tested again, I got continuity.

I’m out of ideas except maybe I screwed up the spool valve gasket replacement. Maybe I shouldn’t have used Hondabond if the gasket is meant to expand or something, or maybe I should have used more since the replacement upper gasket is thin. I can do it again, because I ordered 2 gasket sets in case I needed one for the back (Yeah, I know now that it's a different gasket.)

I’m also wondering if there’s a problem with the solenoid, but I know those have other codes - P2648, 2649, 2653, and 2654 for the rear / Bank 1, and 2658, 2659 for the front / bank 2.

Also wondering If I should just order a new spool valve assembly and use the top half and gaskets. (Yes, I read the stories on that one, and dealers not doing the whole job.)

Help!
Thanks
I will read the rest of your post, but It's obvious that the new top gasket is not as thick as the OEM. Was what you bought on Amazon advertised as OEM? Can you please give us a link to what you bought so we can avoid it. Thank you.
 

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I'm assuming that this is what you replaced?
May have to replace the vtec assembly. This is just the top part without spool.
144733
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will read the rest of your post, but It's obvious that the new top gasket is not as thick as the OEM. Was what you bought on Amazon advertised as OEM? Can you please give us a link to what you bought so we can avoid it. Thank you.
Wow, the man himself!!
This is what I got, and I got the link from another discussion here on Piloteers:
Thanks for your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm assuming that this is what you replaced?
Yes, the oil press switch. I got the one for teh back (P3400) from Amazon, listed as ortiginal Honda, and came in legit packaging. Fixed the P3400. I got the one for the front from local Honda dealer.

May have to replace the vtec assembly. This is just the top part without spool.
View attachment 144733
That's what I was wondering. So, Dorman is OK?
Thanks again. You the man!
Peter
 

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Yes, the oil press switch. I got the one for teh back (P3400) from Amazon, listed as ortiginal Honda, and came in legit packaging. Fixed the P3400. I got the one for the front from local Honda dealer.


That's what I was wondering. So, Dorman is OK?
Thanks again. You the man!
Peter
Sorry for your troubles. The OEM solution is a complete replacement of the vtec solenoid assembly with spool. Part # 15810-R70-A04
I have successfully used Dorman, Spectra Premium, and Standard Motor Products.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry for your troubles.

I have successfully used Dorman,
Thanks so much for your wisdom so far.

So I got the Dorman part from O'Reilly and put it in. I notice their lower gasket is thinner than the Honda and Amazon one, so I left the Amazon in there. Used the pre-installed upper gasket from Dorman.
Started up to put the front end on ramps to change oil (the note from Dorman said to change the oil), and I did a drain-fill on the ATF which I usually do when I change oil.
Started the engine to test and get off the ramps and it started shuddering almost immediately. Shut the engine off, put it in N and coasted down the ramps. Let it sit for a while, as I reviewed everything I did, checked oil level again. Started up and it seemed to not shudder, backed out of the drive and as soon as I started driving started shuddering again. Backed back in the drive and shut down. Checked codes and it's throwing:
  • C1555 (Another discussion said it's an ECM misread that should be P0303 No 3 cyl misfire)
  • P0300 Random misfire
  • P0302 No 2 cyl misfire
  • P0304 No 4 cyl misfire
  • P3497 (Pending)

What could I have done wrong?

By the way, 3 or so years ago, it had the excessive oil consumption issue and threw a bunch of lights, (I don't know the codes - before I had an OBD reader). Dealer replaced a cylinder, spark plugs and some other work all under recall.
 

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If your vehicle were mine, I would start with the basics, knowing that my vehicles timing (/belt) is ok.
  • My VCM would be disabled. I use S-VCM.
  • New/clean Air Filter
  • Clean the MAF. Remove sensor from the intake hose. Use CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner. With a few short bursts, spray directly into the electrodes. Let dry thoroughly before re-installing.
  • Air intake tube should be crack free, clamps tight.
  • New/good NGK Laser Iridiums Spark Plugs. Cheap plugs cause misfires.
  • Inspect spark plug tubes and coils for oil. Replace spark plug tube seals if oil is present.
  • Clean/rebuild/replace any bad or oil soaked coils.
  • Replace PCV valve
  • 180k+ miles Replace EGR valve
When dealing with an oil pressure switch code, the instructions to change the oil are to solve a low oil or dirty oil problem. There is a possibility that there is something is clogging the small oil passages.
 
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