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Nearly killed myself forgetting to torque one of my caliper bolts as I was in a rush. Heard a grinding when stopping. Top sliding bolt fell out and it was just the bottom holding it in. Left a nice groove in one of my wheels. All is well, that wheel is now a permanent full-size spare. Figured it would be a good lesson/time to rotate wheels and do a full suspension/brake retorque.

On brighter news, bedlined the skid plate today. Going to give it a week to fully cure before install.
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Skid plate finish looks good. What brand bed liner and did you do any prep work or just sprayed it on? Lucked out on the brakes.
Raptorliner, had an extra liter from when I did the whole car. Scuffed and thoroughly degreased. For bare metal raptorliner recommends an etching primer. The better way is a 2k epoxy. I didn’t bother priming at all. I expect it to get beat up and chipped. It’s easier and more durable than powder coat and to touch up as well. I did the whole car correctly, tinted the factory silver.
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Discussion Starter · #1,807 ·
Check engine light came on. I forget the code but, it was for the gas cap seal. Cleaned the gas cap, tank fill port area, cleared the code, and the idiot light hasn't come back.

Also, flushed the trans with Max Life 5 times. Had some errands to do so, that was about 45min. of driving and got the trans up too temp. Drove 15min. between drain and fills making sure to go trough P,R,N,D,3,2,1 each time.
 

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What prompted the alternator? Today while driving I had to turn around. I have a voltmeter in my cigarette outlet and saw voltages going to 11V. Had the AC and audio. All my grounds are 0 gauge. The main power wire isn’t changed but looks clean. I’ve had plans to go to a high output alternator with ELD bypass. I might be doing it sooner than planned.
 

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What prompted the alternator? Today while driving I had to turn around. I have a voltmeter in my cigarette outlet and saw voltages going to 11V. Had the AC and audio. All my grounds are 0 gauge. The main power wire isn’t changed but looks clean. I’ve had plans to go to a high output alternator with ELD bypass. I might be doing it sooner than planned.
Screeching sounds from the alternator, an occasional whiff of smoke, intermittent battery light and the voltmeter ranging from 11.4 to 12.5 on the highway. All power & ground wires are new.
 

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Checked all alternator connections and grounds again. Voltage drop tests from positive battery post to alternator positive stud and negative battery post to alternator chassis were all very good. Battery posts are clean and have been replaced with knukonceptz post clamps with zero corrosion. I fully recharged the battery and it tested good, plus it’s less than a year old. ELD does seem to be working correctly and does switch the alternator on with load so I see a slight jump in voltage when a load triggers it on.

It’s looking a lot like the alt is starting to fail. I’ve done a little digging but it looks like the alternator voltage regulator is not external?

Sent in a quote request to Singer Alternator to see what they offer. The other option is Mechman who offers a 240amp version. JS alternator makes one as well but they have mixed reviews on their customer service.

I was hovering just under 11V taking it for a quick spin. When ELD kicked in when I switched AC on and turned it off really quickly it jumped up to low 12V. Should be just over 14V.
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My 💰 bet is on your alternator ;)
More than likely, I’ll keep the battery on a charger and still drive it locally until I can get a replacement on hand. Most my trips are less than a few miles and quick turnarounds. I have another car for longer trips if I need. Going to wait on a quote from Singer, depending on that I’ll decide on a Mechman or Singer.

I’ll also start working on a fused 0 gauge positive wire from the alternator directly to the battery positive.

To run and fully utilize the high output alt, you need to leave the OEM positive from the alternator to the fuse box. You can not replace the OEM positive to something larger and expect that much current to go through the fuse box terminals. They’re definitely not rated for it. Running a parallel positive should allow for any other high current draw such as my amps and off-road lights that are tied directly to the battery.
 

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$400.00 for the alternator? That $40.00 boneyard (looked rather new) one is looking better and better.
Great that you can still find a deal out there. Back in the day going to the local bone yard on the weekends around here used to be interesting. Nowadays the local bone yards are no longer inexpensive, mean as a junk yard dog, restrictive and probably a gamble on some parts.
 
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