If anything it will keep the leading edge of the hood rock chip-freeInstalled the AVS bug shield. Not sure it does anything, but looks good.
Every windshield chip or crack has different outcomes +\- so hopefully your repair lasts a long time. My wife uses clear nail polish to “seal” the chip hoping to limit the damage and sometimes it works and other times the crack gets bigger.The windshield on the wife’s Pilot suffered a rock hit crack on the freeway earlier this week. I finally had time to use one of those DIY kits on it. It doesn’t look professional, but if it holds just like the previous repairs I’ve made to the windshield then she’ll be happy.
Either color choice will have your Pilot looking great. The AT tires should give you plenty of traction. I'm bias towards gun metal grey. What kind of prices have you gotten for powder coating wheels in your area?Since the PO of the Acura MDX rims Plasti Dipped them black, I am going to get them stripped and powder coated before I put the new stuff on. Not sure if I want to do black or dark grey. Working on that decision now.
One day the expenses will be a distant memory as you start to enjoy your ride ;}Yes I am. I need to order a hoist now. It just keeps piling up.
Keep it clean, lubed and check it periodicallytoo late, already ordered
So that's what a new hoist looks like...lube it upReplaced the spare tire hoist
Use either wire 4G or 6G as both make a great replacement. Both are longer than the OEM wire. I just zip tied the cable to the fan shroud plus an optional protective wire wrap. The OEM bracket was too rusty to deal with so I simply zip tie the cable to the same spot.OK, 4 gauge, but which length for the ground cable from the engine to the frame? It's not nearly as far gone as some I've seen, but I did observe the beginning of some fraying and the verdigris patina like the Statue of Liberty. I'd want it long enough, of course, but not dangling too much near that spinning fan. Also, the OEM cable has that bracket pictured above. Any tips on getting it off easily, and did you reuse it with the replacement cable?
Good job. With the $$ saved get yourself a nice set of metric ratcheting wrenches as the 10-12-14 are commonly used.Changed the rear brake pads and rotors this afternoon. With the prevailing advice on this forum, went with Centric kit and everything went pretty well. Turns out, apparently, I didn't have a 14mm wrench. Had all other sizes, but that was the only tool I needed to acquire. The pads were wearing unevenly, and the caliper pins were somewhat stuck, so greased those while I was at it. The pin bolts were a bit finicky. I am assuming the last person to change them, did not align the caliper heads properly in the calipers, as no manner of orientation would provide the resistance when tightening any of the pin bolts. Anyone else suffer from that? So, had to tighten against another wrench holding onto the pins. Not all that bad actually. Setting-in driving around the neighborhood with no problems. Quiet. So far, so good.
When I converted all exterior bulbs on the Pilot to LED bulbs hyper flash became an issue even with more expensive resister-free bulbs. The vender offered replacement bulbs and even a resister add-on. I didn’t want to wire anything extra so I removed the front LED turn signal bulbs and that stopped the hyper flash. All rear tail lights are 100% LED for brighter brake lights (safety). Perhaps I could replace the blinker relay next time.Converted all exterior lights (except headlights) to LED. Replacing the blinker relay was a bit fussy due to the replacement relay being slightly bigger making it a very tight fit but, I managed to get it in.
I heard it just takes practice, steady hands and some u-tubeYeah, I found myself cussin' at my hands in an auto parts parking lot where I erroneously predicted I would make quick of it and be on my way.
I probably overspent (only the best for my Pilot) on the RED GTR resistor free 7443s, T10s and clear T15 backups from Amazon. If I need to replace the 7443s I'd look at Amazon for similar resister free types. Definitely buy the RED LEDs for a truer red.How much are you into it for just the rear lights as LEDs? Was it plug and play for the rears, or was it more? Would you be willing to link the products you used?
Generally a T10 should replace the 168 etc bulbs but on my ‘04 the map light bulbs didn’t like the regular T10 LED bulbs. The vender sent me a different low profile set and then it finally worked. I want to change the rear “handle” lights to led but I don’t want to break them so I’m waiting a bit.I plan on doing the interior but, wondering if the bulbs vary in size a lot or does one size pretty much fit all for the interior?
Not too early to prepare your Pilot for the hot summerNow That’s a Kool Setup!!!! Wish I had one of those when I flew RC Helicopters !!!!
The corroded detached trans ground wire on the Pilot caused no symptoms while the corroded engine to frame ground wire on the Bimmer caused erratic startup and charging. That nearly cost me a spendy day at the bring-my-wallet dealer. I’m a firm believer a good solid ground is as important as the positive wire.What difference did replacing these make? Mine look corroded, but I haven't bothered to replace em. If its beneficial I'll do it tomorrow.
Yup the LEDs need low power compared to regular bulbs and the system thinks a bulb is out. Have to ignore for now.After the LED up
I'm getting a "Rear brake light" idiot light on the dash. Checked the brake lights and everything else and they are working fine. I guess I'll just live with it.