Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner
641 - 660 of 1134 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
This weekend I did lower control arms, front sway bars and the front sway bushings. Nothing was too bad except the driver's side bushing. Even unbolting the subframe I couldn't get enough flex for my socket. I ended up using a prybar to pry the bracket up after unbolting the front. Used a lot of silicone spray and a screwdriver and hammer to force the old one out. The new one I had to cut some of the non needed rubber that sits outside the bracket off and then got it in with lots of silicone and a hammer. Then to line the bracket hole up I had to use a giant C clamp. I don't recommend this method - but it worked and nothing broke. 🤷‍♂️ I figure if it breaks down the road I'll take it somewhere to be replaced 🤣. Drives a ton better now! This forum was a ton of help for these projects too!
Awesome. It's going to be a few months before I tackle my front suspension, but if you notice the difference driving I can't wait to as well!
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Pilot EX-L - - 226k 2007 Honda Accord SE - - 145k
Joined
·
112 Posts
Awesome. It's going to be a few months before I tackle my front suspension, but if you notice the difference driving I can't wait to as well!
Yeah man, there was so much clunking and loosey-goosiness beforehand. Everything is nice and tight up front now. It's great!
 

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
9,748 Posts
You don't need to keep using those screws on the rotors. Their only purpose is to hold the rotor onto the hub while the vehicle is being assembled at the factory, or while you're putting the caliper/pads on, but you can temporarily use a lugnut for that task. There's no good reason for anyone to continue using the two screws in the rotors because they cause way more problems than they're worth.
Logical. But not enough for us OCD folks. :)

Took my Pilot to the car wash. Had it depollenized.
This is supposed to be one of the worst years ever. Ahchoo!
149002


Currently in the stand at NTB...I bought into their “unlimited” alignment package. Was less than the cost of two 4 wheel alignments. The plan is to dick with the rear adjustable control arms and springs and get them installed in a week or 2 and then bring it back. Hope they do a good job!
I had some adjustable upper rear control arms, but they seized because I neglected to lube them and then they became just as nonadjustable as the OEMs they replaced. So I switched back to regular nonadjustable ones. Not happy with the negative camber I'm eyeballing again, though, I've ordered and received another pair of adjustable upper rear control arms. This time when I install them, I'll try not to be a neglectful nincompoop and remember to lube them regularly even if they don't need any further adjustment.

But, but, I have always put them back. It must be my OCD. 🤯
You, too, huh? [Sorry, I just couldn't contain myself from including myself as well. Must be... well, you know.:))

This weekend I did lower control arms, front sway bars and the front sway bushings. Nothing was too bad except the driver's side bushing. Even unbolting the subframe I couldn't get enough flex for my socket. I ended up using a prybar to pry the bracket up after unbolting the front. Used a lot of silicone spray and a screwdriver and hammer to force the old one out. The new one I had to cut some of the non needed rubber that sits outside the bracket off and then got it in with lots of silicone and a hammer. Then to line the bracket hole up I had to use a giant C clamp. I don't recommend this method - but it worked and nothing broke. 🤷‍♂️ I figure if it breaks down the road I'll take it somewhere to be replaced 🤣. Drives a ton better now! This forum was a ton of help for these projects too!
Sorry I'm too late to help you, but the job can be a lot less unpleasant if you use a half moon wrench.

GEARWRENCH 14mm x 16mm 12 Point Half-Moon Reversible Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - 9853 - Combination Wrenches - Amazon.com

Search Results For "Half Moon Wrench"

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,464 Posts
Logical. But not enough for us OCD folks. :)

You, too, huh? [Sorry, I just couldn't contain myself from including myself as well. Must be... well, you know.:))
Just can't stand the thought of dirt/mud building up in the hub screw hole cause I didn't reinstall it. 😏
 
  • Like
Reactions: plplplpl

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Yesterday I de-moused it. Saturday I changed the cabin filter and remembered why I paid someone to do it the last time. Honda usually engineers things well. I have no idea who's idea it was to decide that metal bar needs to be in the way, and who decided to angle the glove box screws backwards. It took 45 minutes with me working blind. I tried lying on the passenger seat with my head under there and almost passed out. Then I tried my cellphone and the camera, but my hands kept getting in the way. I'm thinking if there's a next time, cut out a section of the metal bar, and then get some replacement metal and drill bolt holes so that all I have to do is drop the glove box and unbolt the center section.
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Pilot EX-L - - 226k 2007 Honda Accord SE - - 145k
Joined
·
112 Posts
Logical. But not enough for us OCD folks. :)



This is supposed to be one of the worst years ever. Ahchoo! View attachment 149002



I had some adjustable upper rear control arms, but they seized because I neglected to lube them and then they became just as nonadjustable as the OEMs they replaced. So I switched back to regular nonadjustable ones. Not happy with the negative camber I'm eyeballing again, though, I've ordered and received another pair of adjustable upper rear control arms. This time when I install them, I'll try not to be a neglectful nincompoop and remember to lube them regularly even if they don't need any further adjustment.



You, too, huh? [Sorry, I just couldn't contain myself from including myself as well. Must be... well, you know.:))



Sorry I'm too late to help you, but the job can be a lot less unpleasant if you use a half moon wrench.

GEARWRENCH 14mm x 16mm 12 Point Half-Moon Reversible Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - 9853 - Combination Wrenches - Amazon.com

Search Results For "Half Moon Wrench"

I didn't even know that was a thing 🤦‍♂️ haha. I'll keep it in mind for the future! 😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,464 Posts
Won't the hub screw hole get filled with some of the anti-seize paste you put on the back of the wheel?
I've never used anti-sieze on this.
Maybe I should.
¯\(ツ)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,464 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Yesterday I de-moused it. Saturday I changed the cabin filter and remembered why I paid someone to do it the last time. Honda usually engineers things well. I have no idea who's idea it was to decide that metal bar needs to be in the way, and who decided to angle the glove box screws backwards. It took 45 minutes with me working blind. I tried lying on the passenger seat with my head under there and almost passed out. Then I tried my cellphone and the camera, but my hands kept getting in the way. I'm thinking if there's a next time, cut out a section of the metal bar, and then get some replacement metal and drill bolt holes so that all I have to do is drop the glove box and unbolt the center section.
I haven't owned my 2008 long, but one of the first things I did was the cabin filter. I noticed that after I took out the left side bolt, the glovebox dropped enough for me to access the slot cover without needed to mess with the right side bolt which looks horrible to access.
The metal bar was no longer there so buddy must have cut it out in the past. I dunno if it's useful to keep it or not...?

So this was a quick easy one for me seeing the past owner did the tough part and left it open for me.
 

·
Registered
2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
My 'truck' has a bad fuel pump,

So I used our 08 SUV, like a truck today. Took my recycle oil, some Red Maple limbs, and I needed gas for my mower.

It's NOT a truck LOL

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,464 Posts
Did your Pilot come from the factory with Shell motor oil or Valvoline ATF or Sumitomo tires?
My point is, I did not have any issues removing the hub screws using my Harbor Freight Impact Screwdriver, so there was no need for anti-sieze.
149009
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,307 Posts
My point is, I did not have any issues removing the hub screws using my Harbor Freight Impact Screwdriver, so there was no need for anti-sieze.
View attachment 149009
The anti-seize is not for the hub screws, but to keep corrosion from causing the wheels to stick to the rotors.
If you left the hub screws out and put anti-seize on the back of the wheel, some of might fill the hole where the hub screw normally goes and prevent the mud/dirt you were worried about from filling that hole.
 

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
9,748 Posts
I'm thinking if there's a next time, cut out a section of the metal bar, and then get some replacement metal and drill bolt holes so that all I have to do is drop the glove box and unbolt the center section.
If you do, post a nice how-to pictorial in the Sticky thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
The metal bar was no longer there so buddy must have cut it out in the past. I dunno if it's useful to keep it or not...?

So this was a quick easy one for me seeing the past owner did the tough part and left it open for me.
At least on the '03, from the factory there's both a metal bar and a plastic one. The plastic one is there to keep the dashboard stiff during install. At the first cabin filter change you cut it out. The metal one is supposed to stay there. You unbolt it (and the glove box) and bolt ti back in. I know this because I bought my '03 used with 89k miles on it. I went to replace the cabin filter, and the plastic one was still there. The issue isn't really removing the metal bar, it's the fact that Honda decided to angle the bolts backwards away from you. Another option would be to take the bar out and trim the ends so that those two angled bolt holes aren't used. You could then leave them and the glove box in when you want to take the bar out.
 

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
9,748 Posts
At least on the '03, from the factory there's both a metal bar and a plastic one. The plastic one is there to keep the dashboard stiff during install. At the first cabin filter change you cut it out. The metal one is supposed to stay there.
Same for the 2006 and 2007 I've done it on, and pretty sure it's the same on all 1st gens. That one improvement they made on the second gens.

Here's the method I used, with a how-to literally from the archives of the internet.

 
641 - 660 of 1134 Posts
Top