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Discussion Starter #541
No runs, no drips, no errors? :)

Things went pretty good with very little mess other than the oil filter (which isn't that bad).

I have a Toyota FJ cruiser and oil changes are annoying with that thing. Gotta drop the skid plate and it has a canister style oil filter and is always a major mess no matter how much oil you try to "pre drain" from it first. Then you have to clean it all up and put on a new O ring. Yeah, it's not that bad but, when compared to a spin on filter, the canister oil filter is a PITA.

 

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I used the turkey baster dipstick refill method. Yes, this was the longest part refilling through the dipstick. A trans drain and fill is only ~3.75qts so, not that bad. I have one oil drain pan and used two cardboard boxes lined with plastic trash bags for the trans and diff. I pulled the oil and trans plugs first then dropped the spare tire and got the diff draining. Went back to the front and changed the oil filter and by then the oil and trans was still coming out in a little stream. In that time, I got my VTM fluid and hand fluid pump ready for the diff. After that, oil and trans was down to a drip and I put the plugs back in and refilled them. Finally, back to finish the diff. and dump all the old fluids into the oil change pan to drop off at a local shop.

I love how easy fluid maint. is on the Pilot and I love that don't have to jack it up either or deal with skid plates. Just have a good plan of attack beforehand and you can knockout fluid changes in no time!
Now, try the tranny fill cap method FTW!

There is nothing easy about filling a turkey baster multiple times.
C'mon man LOL
 

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I changed out a broken Hvac vent below the radio, and found another rear HVAC know that has been missing at least 10 yrs.
The backlight is on it, but the fan doesn't work with it now? Topic of another upcoming thread though.

I also got an Alloy mag just like what's on my 08 SE- for a full size spare. Put it up under there.
These parts were from a pick a part yard! I took my time, and luckily what I needed were still there!
 
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I got my new intake snorkel delivered from Rock Auto.
Haven't installed it yet.
I figure if it's been leaking for years, another week won't hurt LOL
It only takes 10 minutes at the most. It's really important if your eatin dust all the time. 😄
147399
 
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I got my new intake snorkel delivered from Rock Auto.
Haven't installed it yet.
I figure if it's been leaking for years, another week won't hurt LOL
I got my 'air intake OEM snorkel' installed a few days ago. It's NOT an aftermarket 'high water' snorkel LOL
It was completely broken, 360degrees around at the TB opening.

I changed over those silly 'dead space' gadgets on the top and bottom too.

It's now much quieter, dare I say smoother too? No, it didn't add 45% more power.
And NO, it was NOT throwing CEL lights and codes, being detached and leaking straight ambient air for years!
So, a crack in one won't either, IMHO.
It's a smidgen quieter and possibly smoother running too though.

The smoother ride is probably because I went down to 38#'s in the tires, from 44#'s with the warmer weather.
 
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Good job! Those annoying dead space gadgets reduce intake noise to keep things nice and quiet 🤫. Next time someone says “eat my dust” don’t take it literally (for years) 😂
I figured they were some kind of noise resonator/damper. They don't 'do' anything else, no holes, no sensors, no wires, nadda. Closed spaces. the bottom one has a funny bend to it too! All part of Honda's master plan I sure.
 

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I used the turkey baster dipstick refill method. Yes, this was the longest part refilling through the dipstick. A trans drain and fill is only ~3.75qts so, not that bad. I have one oil drain pan and used two cardboard boxes lined with plastic trash bags for the trans and diff. I pulled the oil and trans plugs first then dropped the spare tire and got the diff draining. Went back to the front and changed the oil filter and by then the oil and trans was still coming out in a little stream. In that time, I got my VTM fluid and hand fluid pump ready for the diff. After that, oil and trans was down to a drip and I put the plugs back in and refilled them. Finally, back to finish the diff. and dump all the old fluids into the oil change pan to drop off at a local shop.

I love how easy fluid maint. is on the Pilot and I love that don't have to jack it up either or deal with skid plates. Just have a good plan of attack beforehand and you can knockout fluid changes in no time!
You're the modern Shiva of Pilot maintenance.

147430
 

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I've looked for it but, can't seem to find it. I've seen videos/photos of where it's at but, still can't find it.....
If your Pilot is an Ohthree it likely has the oil jet placed in the tranny fill port location. That was Honda’s fix for tranny issues on the earlier first gen Pilots.
 
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Yesterday, I had a few mintues.
Many years ago I installed a hitch on our 08 SE. We only used it for an Ebay- cheapy 4 bicycle carrier that slides into a 2" hitch. No need for trailer lights- yet.
I had also purchased the wire kit too. Never installed that.

I had watched 1 or 2 videos on it- I really like this one


Wow, before the video was over, I had already had the rear trim back on and finished!
Honda made this one REAL easy. One plug, run the wire where you want, done!

This is the kit I used, and the wire loom tucked away with my 3rd row headsets and my headphones, etc.

 
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I've looked for it but, can't seem to find it. I've seen videos/photos of where it's at but, still can't find it.....
Still here? I hope so....

I found some good pictures of it on the net. This is from an MDX forum- same thing though.

From the front or the driver side, look behind the throttle body- toward the firewall/windshield/cab.
Look straight down with a light. It's usually painted a different color, and I think it says 'fill' on the casing ear it too?

147443


Here's another one- you can see the brake fluid master cylinder too to give you a reference

147444


*** NOW that you've found it, it is a 17mm nut head, and you'l need some LONG extensions so you can put your ratchet above. Putting it down there- you'll never get it loose- no room.
I end up using a compo of 3/8 and 1/2 extensions and Adapters.
*** Then, you'll need a cheater bar, or a pipe on the ratchet- this thing is always REAL tight!
When it gives, it will sound like you broke something! LOL- you probably didn't.
Put some grease or antiseize on it when replacing. Don't put it too tight. It's on top, it won't leak!

I use an old piece of garden hose on my old funnels and pour away!
There are funnels sold at Auto part stores, walmart that are long and work too.
This is actually my pic from my thread, and using Valvoline Maxlife ATF.

147445


* Again- that fill cap screw iw REALLY tight! You'll need lots of force, cheater bars, etc.
It doesn't have to be THAT tight, it's on top, it won't leak just snugging it up good.

HTH!
 

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Yesterday, I had a few mintues.
Many years ago I installed a hitch on our 08 SE. We only used it for an Ebay- cheapy 4 bicycle carrier that slides into a 2" hitch. No need for trailer lights- yet.
I had also purchased the wire kit too. Never installed that.

I had watched 1 or 2 videos on it- I really like this one


Wow, before the video was over, I had already had the rear trim back on and finished!
Honda made this one REAL easy. One plug, run the wire where you want, done!

This is the kit I used, and the wire loom tucked away with my 3rd row headsets and my headphones, etc.

On my wire harness kit the instructions had the wires stored inside making accessibility a pain. I poked the wires through a rubber grommet and zip tied onto the hitch
 

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On my wire harness kit the instructions had the wires stored inside making accessibility a pain. I poked the wires through a rubber grommet and zip tied onto the hitch
Yes, the video shows how to easily do that too. I'm leaving the loops of wire banded up easily and in the storage bin. For me just as easy to leave it tucked away in the storage compartment. When I'll need it I checked and the wire is plenty long enough to stretch to a trailers plug too. It closes easily in the hatch's gasket seal too.
 

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Today I tackled the Rear blower motor not working situation. I used the methodical troubleshooting advised in my thread on it. I cleaned the filter screen for it and checked the fuse under the hood, passenger side.
The next step is to order the thermal resistor- which was ordered Amazon Prime- arrives tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix it. The next step is replacing the blower motor.
 

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On my wire harness kit the instructions had the wires stored inside making accessibility a pain. I poked the wires through a rubber grommet and zip tied onto the hitch
One word: Vandals!

If you're lucky, cops'll catch them.

147459


But usually they're as elusive as rats.
 

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Discussion Starter #558
Still here? I hope so....

I found some good pictures of it on the net. This is from an MDX forum- same thing though.

From the front or the driver side, look behind the throttle body- toward the firewall/windshield/cab.
Look straight down with a light. It's usually painted a different color, and I think it says 'fill' on the casing ear it too?

View attachment 147443

Here's another one- you can see the brake fluid master cylinder too to give you a reference

View attachment 147444

*** NOW that you've found it, it is a 17mm nut head, and you'l need some LONG extensions so you can put your ratchet above. Putting it down there- you'll never get it loose- no room.
I end up using a compo of 3/8 and 1/2 extensions and Adapters.
*** Then, you'll need a cheater bar, or a pipe on the ratchet- this thing is always REAL tight!
When it gives, it will sound like you broke something! LOL- you probably didn't.
Put some grease or antiseize on it when replacing. Don't put it too tight. It's on top, it won't leak!

I use an old piece of garden hose on my old funnels and pour away!
There are funnels sold at Auto part stores, walmart that are long and work too.
This is actually my pic from my thread, and using Valvoline Maxlife ATF.

View attachment 147445

* Again- that fill cap screw iw REALLY tight! You'll need lots of force, cheater bars, etc.
It doesn't have to be THAT tight, it's on top, it won't leak just snugging it up good.

HTH!
Thanks!

road2cycle mentioned this above "If your Pilot is an Ohthree it likely has the oil jet placed in the tranny fill port location. That was Honda’s fix for tranny issues on the earlier first gen Pilots."

I'll take another look though today.
 

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Today I tackled the Rear blower motor not working situation. I used the methodical troubleshooting advised in my thread on it. I cleaned the filter screen for it and checked the fuse under the hood, passenger side.
The next step is to order the thermal resistor- which was ordered Amazon Prime- arrives tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix it. The next step is replacing the blower motor.
I'd almost bet it's your resistor. The blower motor would have given you notice if it were to fail, most likely...you'd have heard it complaining. But, I could be wrong. Happens all the time, lol.
 

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I loaded it with (overpriced) wood to spruce up (figuratively, not literally) the rooftop deck, and a new gas grill barbecue. Along with the Honey Do List, I replaced the most needful floorboards, and the rest will have to wait until tomorrow, as will assembling the barbecue. Are they still as stupid and frustrating to assemble as I remember?

This all helps explain my scant presence on Piloteers these days. Well that and drinks and dinner and drinks on said deck. :)
 
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